I just bought a 1999 f250 with 150000 niles on it and i have a 4in turbo back exhaust and the 6637 filter. i am about to put the gauges and dp tuner in it. is there anything else that i should do? this is my first diesel truck and i was looking for suggestions.
Thanks
Lloyd

 

The overboost annilator and a BTS Valve body if you got the money, the OBA saves you from a SES light and the BTS VB saves your tranny. Also if funds allow an ATS Ported turbo housing to elminate the turbo surge.

 

another mod for surge would be a wicked wheel. this will mostly eliminate the surge if you can't afford the housing. I'm doing it this week coming

 

has anyone used the edge insight digital monitor instead of analog gauges? it says that it allows the user to set parameters for safety.

 

Check my sig!

 

I have an X monitor and love it. To me it is better than making a larger blind spot out of the a pillar.

 

They do have above mirror pods and below the cubby pods. If you have a handshaker and you only need two gauges you can put them on either side of the steering wheel. Look at the guy who has 17 gauges in his truck. You will learn a few mounting spots!!!

 

Where did you get your x monitor? i tried to find one and couldnt

 

You won't get true boost measurements from those types of readout because the read from the PCM. Because it throws a code and defuels at ~22 & 25 psi respectively, most of install the Overboost Annihilator (or similar) to hide the real boost from the PCM. That makes those types of boost gauges pretty much worthless just when you need it most. I also know that for some reason, the PCM boost reading goes a little haywire when you install tuners (like the DP). Several have reported discrepancies between the actual boost gauge and what the PCM sees. Its measurement is inaccurate just when you need it the most (at the top of the boost range).

I have heard the "blind spot" thing with the A-pillar, and absolutely have not had any issues with it. Either before or after installing gauges. I even added those dark tinted vent-visors which I guess would make it even bigger. It's not an issue for me at all. I prefer analog gauges which I know some of these systems emulate, but I don't like the boost problem at all. I also like an independent "second opinion" if you will on boost and tranny temp. I know some prefer those types, but they're not for me. Just my humble opinion...

My suggestion would be to get Jody to set you up with tunes for the BTS VB and tell Brian you got the DP set up for his VB. You'll be in good shape at that point. You can always add the WW later, but you only have one shot to get your tunes & VB set up from the beginning.

 

WORD! Finally somebody said these guys are nuts for spending more money than the have to not doing their mods in the right order. Why would you install the chip twice when you only have to do it once??? Why would you pay $50 for a reburn when you could get it burnt right the first time!?!?!?!?!?

On the OBA is it important to have it set as high as it possibly can go w/o setting a code? If I am over limiting the amount of boost my MAP sensor sees am loosing power?

 

what i was planning on doing was getting one of the digital monitors and then get a regular gauge just for the boost. would this work?

 

To respond to my own hijack for others...I did some research at a Dieselsite (Whose MAP fooler I have never seen and I think I like it better!!!) I like the idea of boost readings through this as opposed to the AIH or as a hose splice. This way you can go on either side of it if you would like. Just run a simple valve beneth the hood to switch from before or after the fooler and you win! They say you need two gauges, but you can make your one into two with a simple valve.

Question: Why does your valve blow off at 20 lbs. of boost pressure? I have seen others out there that claim they don't start to blow off until 25 lbs.

Answer: Most likely those vendors may not understand the product they are selling. There are many knock-offs our there since the our original BRVs showed up on the market 6 years ago. At 17 lbs. of pressure the computer is at 100% fuel map. Therefore, it is delivering all the fuel that the injectors can deliver - whatever amount that may be based on any upgrades or modifications that you have - if any. You do not need a valve that blows off at a higher number than 20 lbs.

 

DP My bad!

 

Actually Scott, if this is true, then you just answered a question I've had for some time now. That is "How do folks with *BIG* boost (like H2E, compounds, etc.) get reliable fueling if the PCM can't see boost above 22 psi??". The answer above addresses that.

However, why would you want to see boost on the other side of the regulator? I can't really think of any reason unless you want to see if there's any delay/loss through the regulator.

Anyway, thanks for posting that -- that question has been eating at me for a while now.

 

i had the dieselsite boost fooler at first..it now hangs on the wall..why?? well you need to spray it with wd-40 quite often for the spring to work right and blow off at 22 PSI..when it blows off it makes it hard to build more boost.(you now have a boost leak)..it also would freeze up and not work in the winters up here....i went with the ITP cause it does not blow off..it just hides the PSI..that makes building boost over 22 pretty easy to do with no boost leaks..if you want the dieselsite boost fooler let me know..id be glad to send it out to you...