B&M SHIFTER?
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Senior User
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From: Pulaski, TN
B&M SHIFTER?
I have a B&M shifter in my c4 trans. what is the purpose of an expensive shifter like this on an automatic?
is it for quick shifting? cause i didn't think it was good on an auto trans. to shift from lo to 2nd then to drive. and that seems like the only thing it is good for is quick shifting thru the gears if you do it manually.
is it for quick shifting? cause i didn't think it was good on an auto trans. to shift from lo to 2nd then to drive. and that seems like the only thing it is good for is quick shifting thru the gears if you do it manually.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
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They seem to be a little more rugged and easier to repair than a stock shifter linkage. I recently had to replace the spring and shift collar on my c4 with a factory column mounted shifter, since it was all sloppy and loose. Now it's just like new and I think I only paid like $50 for parts.
I put a B&M ratchet shifter in a friends Chevelle a few years ago. It was a quality unit and allowed automatic shifting as well as manual by yanking the shifter back for each upshift. Kinda cool on the dragstrip.
I put a B&M ratchet shifter in a friends Chevelle a few years ago. It was a quality unit and allowed automatic shifting as well as manual by yanking the shifter back for each upshift. Kinda cool on the dragstrip.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
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Having a B&M shifter is'nt hard on the trans. How a person drives and neglected maintenance is what's hard on a trans. I have a shift kit in my C4 as well as trans cooler. The shifts are harder than stock, but that's better for the trans since it doesn't slip between shifts and builds up less heat. If I were to constantly wind the engine up and chirp tires all the time, that would be tough on the trans as well as the u joints and rear end.
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Senior User
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From: Pulaski, TN
thats my problem the trans is starting to slip and the rearend gears seem to be getting worn. the shifter was already in the truck when i bought it so i don't know exactly whats in the trans or how they treated it. but it seems to shift better if i start in 2nd and let it get up to about 35mph and then shift into drive. i did change the filter and fluid and there was no shavings in the pan (would there be) if there was bad slipping of the trans. or might i have a shift kit in the trans. i plan on getting it rebuilt but if it has a shift kit in it then i would like to know before i had it rebuilt. by the way thanks for the info you have given me already.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Eldorado Ca. USA
Your trans is worn out. Its not the shifter that ruins transmission, its how you do the candy canes, donuts, 5k neutral drops, downshifts from 80MPH, tug-o-war, overheating, and whatever other kind of abuse and misuse I can't imagine . If there is a shift kit, "normally" under normal use, they wont hurt the trans. Typically they are good for a transmission if applied properly. If you want a smooth as butter wear the clutches out shift, tell the rebuilder, he can put it back to stock at an extra charge (probably another $100 in parts or so?) Otherwise enjoy the smart feeling shift, and know that your clutches should last longer because they are not allowed to slip as bad as they did from the factory.
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The B&M shifter won't hurt it a bit. Just make sure you don't put a HURST shifter in it. (JOKE).
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Dec 2003
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If you didn't have any metal shavings in the pan, the fluid may have been changed recently or the trans may not be in bad shape as far as the hard parts go. (clutch drums, bushings etc.) If it's slipping, the seals may be bad reducing fluid pressure which holds the clutches and bands, so you may not see any metal, however it will create high heat and prematurely wear the friction material which will make the fluid dark and have a burnt smell.
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From: Pulaski, TN
yeah the fluid left in the bottom of the pan looked like motor oil but not one single shaving. so i guess i will get new seals (of course i will let the transmission guy look at it to make sure) and get the rear-end rebuilt, the rear-end seems to be locked all the time, i got kinda stuck on some soft ground last night and i noticed that while i was gasing it and turning the wheels that both tires were spinning and slinging mudd and in any vehickle i ever had it would only leave one spin trail.
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From: Pulaski, TN
Originally Posted by masterbeavis
, its how you do the candy canes, donuts, 5k neutral drops, downshifts from 80MPH, tug-o-war, overheating, and whatever other kind of abuse and misuse I can't imagine . .
Senior User
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Originally Posted by jimbob21rc
...and turning the wheels that both tires were spinning and slinging mudd and in any vehickle i ever had it would only leave one spin trail.
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From: Pulaski, TN
well it does have alot of slack in the rearend it seems, i jacked up one side of the truck and i can turn the wheel a little more than i would think it is supposed to and theres a clang sound also but not sure where it is coming from maybe a u-joint.
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From: Pulaski, TN
this morning i drove my truck for about 30 minutes and it seemed ok until i got to where i was going and i stopped and put it down in low gear and there is just not hardly any pull at all the engine revs way up and barely moves but in regular drive it pulls. what about the modulator valve(the diaphram on the trans.) could this cause that?
