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Ordered the wheel yesterday to eliminate surge (andddd maybe a little more noise) Anyway, I don't wnat to pull the turbo (i think i should though, i think i got the dreaded oil leak from the o-rings ) and i read on Black Cloud how to do it without removing it but paper is just that... paper. Can i get a little bit of input on how much of a pain it really is and maybe a few tricks to make it easier. thanks in advance
Yeah i already pulled those both up and read. Idk i guess what i'm asking is what is easier and a couple little tricks that they may not have mentioned while doing it. Haha i am seriously doubting my mechanic skills.
It's a wash either way. I've done both and the hardest part is lugging that turbo out from under the truck cowling without breaking the plastic coolant bottle because you just put your knee on it. (No I didn't brake mine, I was careful !!! )
Mini Me, the best way to do it is to fix two problems at one, pull it, and its not nearly as hard as you think it is, once its out. Now it takes me just under 20 minutes to remove one, and on a rusted in one its about 40. dang clamps.
Mini Me, the best way to do it is to fix two problems at one, pull it, and its not nearly as hard as you think it is, once its out. Now it takes me just under 20 minutes to remove one, and on a rusted in one its about 40. dang clamps.
Especially the one in the back. Mine was so stuck I was using a seal puller hook and hammer to dislodge it. After soaking it with Free-all too.
I did mine with the turbo on it took about 2 hr mostly screwing around and trying to get comfortable on the engine.I left the exhaust on took out the up pipes and used a 3/8 impact gun the remove and replace the wheel.IF you can get a 1/4 impact it would be better. IF i had to do it again i could do it in less then an four.
My famous post #18 in that thread about $2000. However on the dyno, guys with 1/4 of the stuff i have done, make several more hp and over hundred lbs of torque more. It just feels slow, and its fitting
All I did was make sure everything was sprayed down real good with a good penetrating oil the night before. Then I pretty much went through the instructions on the link above. I found the hardest part was trying to fit the screwdriver between the exhaust and the turbo to get to the exhaust wheel... with a 4" there was not much room to get it in there... then once it was in there it was difficult to hold on and spin off the compressor wheel......
If that coolant reservoir gets in the way...just pull it out.. only a few bolts. It can be easily broken....
but now I would just pull the turbo... once you have done it once...the second time is much easier...
haha aight thanks kris. I was a litle worried about pulling it but you're right i might as well just do it so that i can check the o-rings. i guess i'm just nervous about it. anyway, i know the clamps aren't rusted because i've had them both off to check them (figured i might as well so that it will make it easier) another question though... exactly what does it take to get the turbo off the pedestal. are the bolts hard to reach?
god just rereading i think i would die without you all. all of you are simply life savers and there's no way i would tackle any of this by myself. haha i hope this is not a false sense of security in my own mechanic skills haha. anyway thanks again guys
gettin' ready to do mine also. two ?'s. should i replace the up pipe doughnuts as well? and were to buy(best place)the wheel from? i ordered the o-rings from itp but they didnt have the wheel. also ordered the fuel cross connect kit from dino fuel alt. gonna do it all at thw same time and dont want to miss anything.
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