Ok guys,

I have search the old posts looking for this info, but I can't seem to find it.

I would like to change my coolant in my 2002 F-250 V10, but I can not find the engine block drain plugs.

Also, where did you guys buy your coolant? I know you can use either Ford VC-7-A or Zerex G-05. I was just wondering if any of you found a good place or web site to by it.

 

I need to do a flush on my v10 truck also. I bought the Prestone Flush kit for my Ranger and it worked great All sorts of junk came out. You hook up a garden hose and flush the engine. You do have to splice into a hose but there is a cap.

 

Here is what I have from my Haynes Manual for F250/F350/Excursion.

1.) Park on level surface and allow engine to cool. Do not attempt to service cooling system while the engine is hot!
2.) After engine is cooled remove expansion tank cap.
3.) Attach a 3/8 inch hose to the drain fitting at bottom of radiator.
4.) Move container under drain and place drain hose into container
5.) Open drain plug (a pair of pliers may be needed to open drain).
6.) After coolant stops flowing move container under engine block drains and allow coolant in the block to drain. The block drains plugs are generally located about one to two inches above the oil pan. There is one on each side of the block. Once coolant is drained tighten plugs.
7.) Remove the thermostat housing from the engine by removing the two bolts from the thermostat housing and lifting off housing. The thermostat is located at the end of the upper radiator hose going into the block. Before removing the thermostat note the position of the bleed hole. Remove thermostat and reinstall housing. Torque housing bolts to 18 Ft-lbs.
8.) Disconnect the upper hose from the radiator.
9.) Place a garden hose in the upper radiator inlet and flush the system until water runs clear at the upper radiator hose.
10.) Close and tighten the radiator drain plug.
11.) Remove the thermostat housing once again and reinstall the thermostat. Install thermostat with the spring end facing down. Also make sure the bleed hole is in the same position noted in step 7. Torque housing bolts to 18 Ft-lbs.
12.) Place the heater temperature control to the maximum position.
13.) Slowly add new coolant that has already been mixed to 50/50 water/coolant mixture to the expansion tank. Fill tank until coolant level is between the MIN and MAX markings on tank.
14.) Leave the expansion tank cap off and run the engine is a well ventilated area until the thermostat opens. This is indicated by coolant flowing through the upper radiator hose making it hot.
15.) Turn engine off and allow to cool. Add more coolant to expansion tank to bring the level between MIN and MAX marks.
16.) Squeeze the upper radiator hose to expel air. Add more coolant if necessary to bring coolant level to between MIN and MAX.
17.) Replace expansion tank cap and start engine. Allow it to reach normal operating temperature and check for leaks. Set the heater and blower controls to maximum setting check that the heater output is warm from vents. This is a good indication that all air has been purged from system.

Capacity (F-250 and F-350)
Without rear heating: 26 to 29 quarts
With rear heating: 28 to 31 quarts

Recommend fluids
1999 through 2002: 50/50 mixture of ethylene glycol-based coolant and distilled or demineralized water.
2003 through 2004: Motorcraft Premium Gold coolant VC-7-A or equivalent. In Oregon use VC-7-B or equivalent.
2005 and later: Motorcraft Premium Gold coolant VC-7-A or equivalent. In Oregon, California, New Mexico use VC-7-B or equivalent.

There happened to be a good thread regarding coolants types as well here: https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/6...-question.html

 

Perfect Monster

That is what I needed.

Thankyou.

 

Monster, great write up. The only thing that concerns me is in step 6 the block gets drained but after the flush procedure it does not get drained again. Wouldn't this leave straight water in the block? After adding the 50/50 coolant mix to the system would that 50/50 mix be further diluted by clear water in the block?

 

Great write up Monster. Should we use filtered water when we fill with 50/50 mix?
Thanks ~Gage~

 

You can always measure the old fluid amount when you drain it in step 6 and then deduct that much water from the 50/50 mix.

I used bottled distilled water. You can buy it for less then a $1.00 a gallon at Wal-Mart.

 

Well guys, I still can not find the block drain plugs. I have a 4X4 F-250 that has a huge skid plate covering most of the oil pan. I am going to look one more time Sunday, but then I may have to remove the skid plate in a few weeks and see if I can find them.

Also, the Zerex G-05 anti-freeze seems to be about impossible to find in my area. Every auto parts store and even Wal-mart carry a extended life anti-freeze that says it is "safe for all makes and colors" in all of the major brands. These products are NOT Dex-cool, which I hear is some bad mojo.

Any body use this suff? Or should I play it safe and take out a 2nd mortgage to buy the Ford VC-7-A?

 

The block drain plugs are 3/8'' hex head pipe plugs on each side of the block.

 

Last time I did a flush I found G-05 at CarQuest. Check the internet too. It may be the cheapest even with shipping.

Ditto on the distilled water!

 

I know this is an old thread but should we use the Prestone Super Flush? Also you think it might be a good idea to install a new thermostat?
Thanks

 

Also should I do the 50/50 or 70/30....I take it Im going to take a trip to the dealer to buy the Motorcraft Premium Gold coolant VC-7-A....
Thanks ~Gage~

 

I used Ford Gold coolant and followed Gooch's recommendations. Seemed to work just as is should.


https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/9...formation.html

 

FYI this is the V10 section. Gooch's flush doesn't apply the same here.

 

Oops. Sorry all.