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New owner needs maintenance suggestions

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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 10:31 AM
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From: TX Hill Country
New owner needs maintenance suggestions

I just purchased a stock 03 F350 SD 6.0L PSD 4x4 with 98K mileage. What specific maintenance recommendations such as fluids and filter changes would you suggest? What fuel and/or oil additives should I be using? I bought this from a dealer so no first hand knowledge of service records other than oasis report. Thanks for your input.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 06:07 PM
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https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...-problems.html

Read over this thread. It should have some applicable info for you.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2008 | 10:00 PM
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Thanks bismic for the reply and the incredible amount of useful information. I have been following a few of those threads and intend on following the all the advise but my question remains...

Since I JUST bought this truck what IMMEDIATE /engine/oil/trans/fluid/filter/lube/coolant/power steering/brake/ etc changes should I do to get this truck up to date? Should I run the truck for awhile and then begin a service schedule or is there some critical services that I should do before running it in case the previous owner didn't.

Also, because of my schedule, the truck will periodically sit for 2-4 weeks at a time. Are there any precautions I need to take before putting it up?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 01:50 AM
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Change your oil every 3-4.5K miles.
If it was from a dealer they should have done a service on it before it was sold.
I'm sure you could call them to see if they did.
Is this your first diesel?
Personally I would not use fuel additives.
-Alex-
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 02:29 AM
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I always change the oil and the oil/fuel/air filters as soon as I buy a used vehicle. This is even more important for the 6.0L since you never know if people have used "will fit" filters and these definitely can lead to damage. When changing these filters, look over the fluid and filter carefully for signs of metal, plugging, overheated fluids, etc. Also, change the external transmission filter.

Every used vehicle I have bought has had something done to it that indicates the previous owner was trying to minimize cost before selling (the most recent one was finding a bent rim when a tire would not balance). we all do it - nothing surprising here.

What did the Oasis report show? Did you get a manual with the truck?

I also have a battery load tester so I load check the batteries (try to do it before I buy, but sometimes can't). I definitely do not want to get stuck on a long trip. I am soon going to buy a code reader - just another tool to use to check things out. If your local autozone would check for any DTC's, that would be good. My local Autozone says they will not check for codes (for free) unless there is a CEL. You may have a DTC without a CEL.

On my most recent used purchase (05 F150 at 75k miles), I also had the coolant and transmission fluid changed - probably overkill on the coolant, it looked to be in great shape. If you change the coolant I would at least change the lower radiator hose. There was some talk WAY-WAY back that this hose may collapse if old and restrict coolant flow since they lack the inner coil spring (never substantiated).

I would also check the brakes. At this mileage, new pads, etc are probably in order unless you get lucky and they were recently done. When checking them, you can make sure no leaks, smooth rotor, etc.

You may want to look over the serpentine belt as well. I usually just buy a spare since I have the tools to change if it were to break. If you do this, carry the instructions posted here on how to change it - makes it much easier.

I personally would use a fuel additive, especially if you let it sit for weeks. Use one that has corrosion protection additives. Water can get into the fuel tank from condensation on cold mornings. The additive will help "demulsify" it so it can be removed. the tank should be plastic, but corrosion in the HFCM and the fuel system can and does occur.

As far as the differential, transfer case, front axle ..... You normally would not have to worry about these fluids unless the previous owner was four wheeling in fairly deep water. Changing these out just depends on your wallet and your degree of conservatism.

The ball joints usually go around 70k. You should get under the truck and look em over - see if they have been changed. If not, be prepared for that expense. Some people say the power steering pump is weak and will not last much past 100k. If it fails, it fails cest la vie.

If it has ESOF (electronic shift on the fly) check it out before you need it. Sometimes they have not been real reliable.

Good Luck !!! and welcome to FTE
 
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Old Feb 22, 2008 | 05:47 AM
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Ditto what Bismic said. I want to know where I'm at as far as maintenance, I changed my engine oil right after I got the truck and it had a will-fit oil filter in it. I have changed the TC oil, replaced K&N with stock air box, changed fuel filters, and next OC I will change tranny oil and filters. Will flush coolant and replace and also replace oil in rears when it warms up around here. Also a good idea for your oil changes would be to install a Fumoto valve- I have one ready to install next oil change. It is a valve you use in place of the drain plug and makes oil changes less messy. Another good idea is to go to Blackstone labs website and order the used oil analysis kit( UOA) and send them a sample from your next OC to check up on your engine to see what's going on in there. I didn't click on the provided link from earlier in the post and if this was covered in that I apologize, but better said twice than not at all IMO! Good luck and welcome aboard! Lots of very knowledgeable people on here with lots of valueable info!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 09:10 AM
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What did the Oasis report show?
I looks lilke there were three recalls taken care of prior to original purchase. 03B05, 03B06, 57B98.
ALSO:
-Defect #1 and #8 injectors.
-Melted battery post caused by loose connection.
-Broken bolt in idler pulley causing need of excessive effort to stop.
-Defect PVM calibration causing excessive smoke and sputtering.
-Defective fuel module causing water in fuel light to stay on.
-TR sensor out of adjustment causing long delay shifting from rev to fwd.
-Recall 04S15
-Defective multifunctional steering wheel switch causing the wipers to come on uncommanded while driving.
-Defect wiper motor steering column switch causing wipers to come on uncommanded while driving.
-Leaking Y pipe on turbocharger assy causing diesel smell.
-Defective water in fuel module in header causing water in fuel light to come on.
-Recall 59B01
-Recall 06E17
-Defective fuel pump damaged injectors causing stumbling and excessive black smoke while towing on hwy.
-Defective multifunctional steering column switch causing wipers to come on umcommanded while driving.
-Defect EGR valve & #5,#6 injector key on engine off KOEO injector electrical causing lack of power in the morning no throttle response.

I dont know what the unnamed recalls were.
Is the wiper problem a common defect or is my truck just special?

Did you get a manual with the truck? YES

I also have a battery load tester so I load check the batteries (try to do it before I buy, but sometimes can't). I definitely do not want to get stuck on a long trip. I am soon going to buy a code reader - just another tool to use to check things out. If your local autozone would check for any DTC's, that would be good. My local Autozone says they will not check for codes (for free) unless there is a CEL. You may have a DTC without a CEL.

Definitions please for DTC and CEL, newbie remember....
I am think of getting SCT tuner to improve mpg , shouldn't that take care of the codes? and IYO is it worth the expense?

The ball joints usually go around 70k. You should get under the truck and look em over - see if they have been changed. If not, be prepared for that expense.

What should I look for? (not being a mechanic) or should I just get a mechanic to look at it?

Good Luck !!! and welcome to FTE

Thanks so much for taking so much time for me! I'm learnng.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 09:29 AM
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No, not my first diesel. I own a 94 chev 3/4 ton with a 6.5L turbo with 108K that sounds like a sewing machine with all the noises coming out of it. The noises sound sort of like a bad pulley but I believe the sounds are coming from internal engine area. It starts up nice but the noises come shortly after warm up. I'm afraid to drive it and afraid to sell it. I don't know what to do about it, thinking of putting some kind different oil in it but don't know if it is worth the expense.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 10:50 AM
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TELL THE DEALER TO CHECK THE PULLIE NOW!!i let mine go and the belt ripped a hole in my timeing cover way the hell out in the middle of bfe, a $2600 fix as it was 2k past waranty.funny thing is my pulley bolt was also replaced around 30k must be problem with the bolt.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2008 | 02:00 PM
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06E17 I think is the buzz flash and 59B01 is a test drive, DTC -diagnostic trouble code, CEL-check engine light
 
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