I just had my EGR Cooler replaced by the dealer due to a coolant leak, and I still have the whistling sound. It happens when you are under boost (accellerating) then you release the accellerator pedal all at once. It has also happened when the transmission is shifting (auto) and I am still on the throttle. It's a whistling that increases slightly in pitch (like those slide-whistles you had as a kid) and lasts for about 1-2 seconds. Mine is lower pitch than a tea kettle, and closer than to of a mostly-empty beer bottle. It sounds like it comes from just ahead of the stearing wheel and is very clearly heard in the cab. To the point where passengers say "what the #@^$ was THAT?" I can't imagine that this is normal as others have suggested, because the outcry from the hundreds of thousands of us with the 6.0L would be impossible for Ford to ignore. Plus, this just started happening to my truck at about 90,000 miles.

 

I had the same "whistle" on my truck. The dealer replaced the degauss bottle and the head gaskets.... it doesn't whistle anymore and it doesn't "spit" coolant out of the degauss bottle either. Stay on top of the dealers until they replace the head gaskets.

 

Mine started out as a soft tea kettle sound. It got worse as time went on. Ford did the egr and egr cooler to try anf fix. Did not work. Adjusted the min/max coolant level as per recall. Did not work. Finally another dealer diagnosed the problem to be head gaskets. Sound went away as sson as they did the gaskets.

 

 

Went to ford for a couple of things one being this noise. I had them do a degas pressure test and check the oil and egr cooler. Sent it in Morning Monday and I had to call them today to see how it is. They said they are replacing the egr cooler and it will be done tomorrow. Will let you guys know if this solves my problem.

 

UPDATE: Well it really appears as if a blown head gasket is our problem too. It's been losing water now. Having to replace water quite often, had to put in a whole gallon the other day.

Before it started loosing water we had checked the degaus bottle, there were no signs of leaking anywhere.

 

Yeah, mine was kind of an alll of a sudden thing also. But then I quit loosing fluid for a while too just before I took it in. Mine was outta the shop in 6-8hrs, they replaced one head (warped outta spec passenger side) and the head gasket on the other side. They have to remove the cab from the truck to remove the heads. You may want to read up on requesting installation of ARP head studs and see if your dealer will do it if you supply the studs.

You may want to have them check out the STC fitting on your HPOP while they are in there. Mine had to be done within a week of being outta the shop. Tell them that you get the odd warm no start and maybe they will fix it while they are in there.

 

Got my truck back from Ford and the same old B/S. It originall went in for tsb on windows. since i had limo tints on it they did a coutosy thing and repaced the tints for me also. Got the truck back and the tint is not limo it is a cheap *****ty tint they put on. now i have to deal with this issue about my tints.

Anyway that is not the biggest thing. they didnt fix my whine i told them about all they did was replace the egr cooler. Noise is still there and now a new freakin noise. At around 1800rpm about 30 mph in light throttle it sounds something like a weed whacker coming from the engine. i dont know what to do i wanna stranggle the dealer. Called them up want the tech to take a ride with me so told them that they want me to go down saturday morning and take a ride with the tech.

Also let me add this is the second time for same problem and both times i told them do a pressure test it might be the H.G. You guys think they did? Apsolutely not. Will tell them again maybe third time is a charm. I HOPE. Also noticed fingerprint all over the hood and a new scratch they must of added, have to yell at them for that. And let them know i noticed there are bubbles in the degasbottle when it is in high idle there are bubbles like someone is blowing into the bottle making bubbles. \

Anyone with suggestions??? Please???

 

Sounds like the whine is still there.....LOL.....Sorry, couldn't resist.

I would print off the TSB and take it with you and throw it at them. The bubles in the degass is a bad thing for certian. Where the bubbles there before they replaced the EGR cooler or is this a new thing? If it is new anlong with the new noise, it is possible there was an issue with the EGR installation.

 

dont know if it was there bfore but hopefully monday it will get resolved

 

If not, then I would suggest that you go to another dealer or call FoMoCo and speak to their customer service department.

 

what tsb are u talking about kusto??

 

This one. Hopefully the link works.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...php?tsb=06-3-8

Otherwise go to the TSB search page above and look up the tsb by entering the following. 06-3-8

that should bring up the TSB called COOLANT DEGAS BOTTLE OVERFLOW - 6.0L

This identifies all the tests that should be done to verify the reason for the excess pressure in the cooling system. I seems to me that the Tech that worked on your truck quit at test number 4.

Here are the guts of it anyway. Good luck.

Complete All Steps In Order As Outlined

1. Check for cross contamination of engine oil into cooling system by inspecting the coolant condition in the degas bottle. If oil is present in coolant, perform the following repair:
   1. Replace the oil cooler, refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C.
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>ON 2004 E-SERIES 6.0L BUILT BEFORE 05/29/2004, IF THE OIL COOLER IS REPLACED, ALSO REPLACE THE HEATER CORE INLET HOSE, THE REVISED HOSE CONTAINS AN INTERNAL FLOW RESTRICTOR (FIGURE 1). REFER TO TSB 05-2-5 FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
      
      Figure 1 - Article 06-3-8
      
      
      
   2. Clean cooling system with Motorcraft Premium Cooling System Flush (VC-1) following Workshop Manual procedure in Section 303-03, Flushing - Engine and Radiator.
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>IT MAY BE NECESSARY TO FURTHER REMOVE ALL COOLANT HOSES (RADIATOR, DEGAS, AND HEATER) AND CLEAN THEM SEPARATELY. OIL TENDS TO ADHERE TO THE RUBBER AND RESISTS NORMAL FLUSHING.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
      
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>IN EXTREME CASES, THE RADIATOR MAY NEED TO BE REMOVED AND CLEANED IN AN ULTRASONIC CLEANING TANK AT A LOCAL RADIATOR REPAIR FACILITY.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
2. Check for diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs). Then using WDS datalogger, access the following PIDs and road test the vehicle:
   • Manifold Gauge Pressure (MGP)
   • Barometric Pressure (BARO)
   • Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR)
   • Exhaust Pressure (EP)
   • Mass Air Flow (MAF)
   • Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP)
   • Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT)
   • Engine Oil Temperature (EOT)
   1. Verify that MGP, BARO, EGR, EP, MAF and MAP PIDs are within specification, and the EP PID value is within 1.5 psi (10.34 kPa) of the MAP and BARO PID values with key on engine off (KOEO). If PIDs are not within specification, or DTCs are retrieved, refer to PC/ED pinpoint tests. Repair any faults then proceed with the TSB.
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>OVER-BOOST CONDITIONS (HIGHER THAN SPECIFIED MGP) WILL RESULT IN EXCESSIVE CYLINDER PRESSURES, AND MAY BE CAUSED BY ONE (1) OF THE FOLLOWING: IRREGULAR RESPONSE IN VARIABLE GEOMETRY TURBO, BIASED EXHAUST PRESSURE SENSOR, AND/OR IRREGULAR EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
   2. Verify that ECT and EOT PIDs are within specified ranges (see PC/ED Section 1: Description and Operation of ECT, EOT). EOT should be about 225° F (107° C) when the ECT is 200° F (93° C). If EOT IS NOT within 25° F (14° C) of ECT under normal operating conditions, replace the oil cooler. However, first perform all steps through Step 5 before replacing the oil cooler. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C.
3. Check for proper operation of the pressure cap and its seal to the degas bottle. Do not remove the pressure cap. As shown in Figure 2, install the pressure tester to one (1) of the two (2) small ports near the top of the bottle. Then isolate the degas bottle by securely pinching off (or plugging) the other intake deaeration (small) line, and the large hose at the bottom of the bottle between the bottle and the tee fitting. Pressurize the degas bottle by using slow and steady pushes on the tester pump handle (not quick jerking pushes). Pressurize the degas bottle until the gauge pressure levels off, typically between 12-18 psi (83-124 kPa).
   
   
   Figure 2 - Article 06-3-8
   1. Wait 30 seconds, if the gauge holds steady pressure, the pressure cap and degas bottle fill neck lip are good.
   2. If the gauge pressure drops, apply soapy water around the cap to find any leaks. Check the degas bottle fill neck lip for nicks. Small nicks can be removed by light sanding with fine emery cloth. Re-pressure test, if leaks are still present replace the pressure cap. Re-pressure test again, if leaks are still present replace the degas bottle, refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-03.
   3. After verifying that the degas bottle and pressure cap are in good condition proceed to Step 4.
4. EGR COOLER TEST: Install a pressure tester in-line with the degas bottle hose using Rotunda 014-R1068 adapter (Figure 3).
   
   
   Figure 3 - Article 06-3-8
   1. Pressurize the cooling system until the gauge pressure levels off.
   2. Inspect for external leaks especially in the heater core area. Replace the heater core if necessary, refer to Workshop Manual Section 412-02. Also replace the oil cooler at this point if necessary as outlined in Step 2. Refill the system and proceed to Step 4c.
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>ON 2004 E-SERIES 6.0L BUILT BEFORE 05/29/2004, IF THE HEATER CORE OR OIL COOLER ARE REPLACED, ALSO REPLACE THE HEATER CORE INLET HOSE, THE REVISED HOSE CONTAINS AN INTERNAL FLOW RESTRICTOR. REFER TO TSB 05-2-5 FOR ADDITIONAL INFORMATION.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
   3. Raise rear of vehicle 2' (61 cm) so front of vehicle is angled down. Pressurize system with pressure tester and remove EGR valve, inspect for coolant in the intake manifold at EGR valve location. Maintain pressure for up to 15 minutes. An EGR cooler gross leak will produce coolant in the intake manifold almost immediately. It will take up to 15 minutes for coolant to be evident in the intake manifold for smallest EGR cooler leak. If coolant is present in intake replace the EGR cooler, refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-08. (Normally when the EGR cooler has failed, there will be coolant in the exhaust.) Refill the system and proceed to Step 5.
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width=80>NOTE:</TD><TD>REPLACE THE OIL COOLER AT THIS POINT IF NECESSARY AS OUTLINED IN STEP 2.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
      
      
      <TABLE border=0><TBODY><TR><TD></TD><TD width=100>CAUTION:</TD><TD>COOLANT ENTERING ANY COMBUSTION CHAMBER MAY CAUSE A HYDRO LOCK CONDITION. EVACUATE INTAKE PASSAGES AND COMBUSTION CHAMBERS OF ALL LIQUIDS. REMOVE GLOW PLUGS (REFER TO WORKSHOP MANUAL, SECTION 303-07B) TO ASSIST IN VENTING LIQUID FROM COMBUSTION CHAMBERS, BEFORE ENGINE IS STARTED.</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
      
5. With the pressure tester still installed as outlined in Step 4, release cooling system pressure, leave tester in place. Seal pressure bleed. Drive the vehicle at WOT / high load / maximum boost, observe whether the cooling system pressure exceeds the holding pressure of 12-18 psi (83-124 kPa) noted in Step 3, and/or if coolant is venting through the degas bottle cap.
   1. If pressure is not greater than the holding pressure noted in Step 3, and no venting from the degas bottle occurs, perform Step 7 (if applicable) and return the vehicle to the customer.
   2. If cooling system pressure is greater than the holding pressure noted in Step 3, and/or the degas bottle cap vents, replace the head gaskets. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-01C for head removal/installation and head flatness specification, check the surface of the heads for flatness and/or imperfections. Refer to Workshop Manual, Section 303-00 for the cylinder head flatness measuring procedures. Use the following revised head bolt torque sequence and specifications (Figure 4).
      
      
      Figure 4 - Article 06-3-8

 

Ooops, my bad. 6-21-2 is the newest version of the same thing. Not sure what the change was perhaps some of the specs were revised.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/tsb/full...hp?tsb=06-21-2

 

thanx kusto will let you know what happens