just bought a recently wrecked PSD from a friend and am having trouble getting it to start.

here is what i do know:

following the accident he was able to drive the truck to the side of the road and wait for the tow truck, so i know it runs post wreck.

all fuses are good

fuel shut off switch is reset, or never tripped for that matter

it is getting fuel because there is lots of fuel smoke coming from the exhaust while cranking

the radiator is smashed so there is no coolant is the system

the glow plug relay is clicking when the key is turned on, so im pretty sure they are working.

the tach doesnt move when cranking

it will crank fine for several seconds and then it "misses" is the best way i can describe it during cranking.

its acting like its not firing, but it is definately dumping fuel because i can smell it in the exhaust. it sat for about 2 weeks until today at the body shop.

does anyone have any ideas? im thinking CPS because there is no tach when cranking, but could there be another issue causeing it to not want to start?

thanks,
Callen

 

I'd guess CPS also since it took a good hit in the front.

Austin

 

Also check the engine oil level as well as the HPOP oil level.

 

I would charge up the batteries and get a CPS .I am guessing it was a front hit with a tore up rad, so double check all your wiring up there.

 

I'm with Dave, you can crank all you want but if the batts art not at full charge, it will not start.

 

Given the tac doesn't move I go with CPS

 

Isn't there also a resetable "crash switch" located behind the passenger kick board? Not sure what it prevents from operating if it is tripped though...?

 

mr5 thats the fuel shut-off switch he said was good. i would also go with the cps. ez fix

 

I know my tach dosen't move when cranking mine over and it starts. You very well might have a bad GPR. Just try jumping the GPR with a screw driver just to rule that out.

How bad of a hit did it take? The cps is behind the crank pully and if it isn't smashed in that far it just might not be the cps.

 

If the CPS was bad it wouldn't inject any fuel, so then it wouldn't blow any smoke out the tail pipe or even make that struggling to run miss that you mention. It would just crank with no results at all.
Make sure the glow plugs are getting hot.
Jump the big terminals on the glow plug relay with a screwdriver for 30 seconds if you have to.

 

good point about the CPS being good, it does inject fuel. i will jump the glow plug relay and try again. both batteries are brand new and have full charge.

what is a HPOP? how do i check it?

the engine oil is full and in good shape.

its kinda odd when it turns over, it will crank crank crank, then it will act like its reseting, then will crank crank crank, then reset. never will it start to sputter or act like its going to start tough.

i also heard about a possible fuse that turns the PCM off #30? i think it was.

what makes me curious is that the truck started up right after the wreck and he drove it a couple hundred feet off the road.

first step would be the GPR i guess.

Callen

 

The truck will/should run with NO glowplug activity.

The sound of 'resetting'...

What kinda shape are your cables in? Corrosion is often times the culprit.

If you pull the 'PowerStroke' cover off the HPOP reservoir you'll notice a sensor on top of it. Pull this sensor. Oil should be there. If not, fill 'er up. It may have lost it's 'prime.'

As for fuse #30, pull it and see if it starts. This is the heater element on the back of your fuel bowl. If it's real screwed up pulling the fuse won't matter (not often). Simply disconnect it at the bowl.

 

Callen, have you physically checked to see that the fuel shut-off switch is, in fact, 'reset?'

Sounds like just enough time to suck the lines dry (after driving it a couple a hundred feet after the wreck).

 

If the #30 is blown it will be dead to the world. No smoke or even a rough hit. If I was a bettin man I would go with fuel shutoff switch, but if you checked it I am an idiot. I am also an idiot bc you said there was LOTS of smoke when cranking. This tells you there is fuel. Still cycle the key to be sure. You have to pick this thing apart with some sort of method to your madness.

I am with Kwik on the CPS. Just bc a PSD doesn't run doesn't mean it is the CPS... Redfire, my truck doesn't move the tach when it is cranking either. Maybe it is the 01 batts?

 

With the front end damage, batteries do sound like a logical place to start. You might not have enough power to get the truck started. Check to make sure all the connections are good then try giving it a jump.

Fuse #30 that you read about is for the fuel bowl heater, and the position does change for different year models. As mentioned above, you can always unplug the fuel bowl heater plug from the fuel bowl to get around this. Note: a shorted heater causes a no glow plug light condition.

I don't know if a low oil level in the HPOP would give you the smoke, but I thought after the impact, and then being tilted on & off a wrecker the reservoir might have drained down.

The HPOP (High Pressure Oil Pump) reservoir is just in front of the fuel filter. It's a long rectangular shaped box with an inspection plug on the right side. See photo. Oil level (15w-40) should be within 3/4" - 1" from the top.