TransGo Tugger Partial Install
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
i'm planning on putting in a BTS VB really soon. i just had a new tranny installed (ford 4R100HD - needed immediately and couldn't wait or afford the BTS, but oh well) will i need to flush anything. since the fluid only has about 13k miles on it, can i just dump the pan/drain, and top off?
I am getting ready to do the Transgo HD2-D shift kit. I hope that I can document it, but know this, it appears to be the same thing as the BTS VB that you just do yourself. I will post up what I find.As for you sideshow, fortunately you have a warranty. Unfortunately if you screw with it it will likely void it.
Stay tuned.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
I am sure the tugger comes with the plate. BTW joe, how big did you go on the drilling. I think the instructions are misleading. I am not to worried about it because I have live tuning coming up, but I want my stuff as much mechanical as possible.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
I drilled mine to the instructions for the low stall converter. I was rebuilding my my trans at the time and replaced the torque converter. I wish I had drilled all the holes the same size. It recommends to drill the hole, for 3rd gear, slightly smaller than the rest. I should have made it the same. Third(drive) could be a little firmer. I will drill out the plate later during next service. Need to reburn DP chip for valve body recalibrations. Talked to Dennis @ ITP. Too firm due to EPC at WOT. Tow settings are also "jerky". 80 econo shifts great, but harsh @ WOT also. Barks 3rd when shifting.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Last part was the solenoid pack. I couldn't get it off for the life of me. I guess I should've pulled it down when I had the main VB off, but surely you don't have to pull that to get it down... I tried prying it gently with a screwdriver, but I didn't want to break it. Besides, there is a 50/50 chance that I wouldn't have to do anything after pulling if off. I guess I'll never know for sure...t. 
There will be pics too. Good news for you is you probably didn't need to drop it just like I didn't need to. At least now I know.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Delta B.C.
I drilled all my holes to 1/8" ( .125") to get the shifts firm... I was not happy with what the tugger kit had said either... it was WAY too soft for me!!! I also installed a .500 line mod valve too....
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
Hmmm, I already have the accumulator VB back in with 5/64 holes in the plate. I am about to put the solenoid pack back on. I could always pull the VB back out and drill the plate larger, but I'm going to try this first.
Which line mod valve did you use and what did that do?
Also, I am not seeing a reason to pull the main valve body. Seems that is for the older units. Did you do any of that?
Which line mod valve did you use and what did that do?
Also, I am not seeing a reason to pull the main valve body. Seems that is for the older units. Did you do any of that?
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Delta B.C.
I went with the Sonnax .500 line mod valve... this combine with the .125 holes firmed my shifts up nicely......
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Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 14,541
Likes: 2
From: Dallas-Ft. Worth
Awww crap!!! I guess I'm glad I didn't force it. 
Looking forward to seeing the carnage...
On the drilling, I used the range in the instructions for the diesel engine, and picked the standard drill size was between the upper & lower limit. My shifts are nice, short, & firm. WAYYY better than stock, so I'm quite happy with it. If you like your shifts really hard, go with larger holes. I don't know that I'd go any firmer even if I had to drop it again tomorrow. It's just right for me...
Looking forward to seeing the carnage...
On the drilling, I used the range in the instructions for the diesel engine, and picked the standard drill size was between the upper & lower limit. My shifts are nice, short, & firm. WAYYY better than stock, so I'm quite happy with it. If you like your shifts really hard, go with larger holes. I don't know that I'd go any firmer even if I had to drop it again tomorrow. It's just right for me...
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 0
From: Utah County, UT
Mine still has the .427 valve in it, however i put mine in during the rebuild and put in a different boost valve in the pump that increases pressure throughout not just the forward clutches. If it is not firm enought, then go with a .500 lin mod. Just remember you can't undrill the plate.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 8,298
Likes: 25
From: Damon (South East Texas)
Mine still has the .427 valve in it, however i put mine in during the rebuild and put in a different boost valve in the pump that increases pressure throughout not just the forward clutches. If it is not firm enought, then go with a .500 lin mod. Just remember you can't undrill the plate.
Elder User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 641
Likes: 1
From: Delta B.C.
Mine still has the .427 valve in it, however i put mine in during the rebuild and put in a different boost valve in the pump that increases pressure throughout not just the forward clutches. If it is not firm enought, then go with a .500 lin mod. Just remember you can't undrill the plate.
Post Fiend
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 11,892
Likes: 2
From: Middle Tennessee
How's them 215cc Swamps hybrids treating you? I am particularly interested in the idle quality. Mine don't quite idle to my satisfaction.
Postmaster
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 3,595
Likes: 0
From: Utah County, UT
On mine, IIRC, the .427 valve was enough, I didn't drill them out any larger. For me, I need a little bit of slip during the shift. I didn't want to break anything down line when towing. I was more concerned with the shock load it would present. IMOP, chirping the tires during a shift is not a good thing. That'd be like popping the clutch everytime you shifted a manual. For competitions like drag and sled pulling, I can see where this would be desired. For me, I wanted a quick shift you can discern, but no so much you spill your drink. The instant shock is going to take its toll somewhere. Maybe U joint, drive line, rear diff, or even break one of the planets in the tranny itself.