Double-clutching
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
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Matt,
Double-clutching is sometimes necessary in our oldies to slow the trans innerds down prior to sliding into a lower gear. If the tranny acts more friendly with the double-clutching, I say "do it." I know that with my '62, I usually wait for a second prior to dropping the big stick into the lower gear as it lets everything slow down and make for a more friendly down-shift, pulling it out of third, for example, and into neutral, and after a couple of seconds or another pump of the clutch (double-clutching), pulling the shifter into second. In that respect, double-clutching makes for a "delay" as to make a smoother down-shift.
Whatever makes for a more friendly situation is the way to go with our old goodies.
Double-clutching is sometimes necessary in our oldies to slow the trans innerds down prior to sliding into a lower gear. If the tranny acts more friendly with the double-clutching, I say "do it." I know that with my '62, I usually wait for a second prior to dropping the big stick into the lower gear as it lets everything slow down and make for a more friendly down-shift, pulling it out of third, for example, and into neutral, and after a couple of seconds or another pump of the clutch (double-clutching), pulling the shifter into second. In that respect, double-clutching makes for a "delay" as to make a smoother down-shift.
Whatever makes for a more friendly situation is the way to go with our old goodies.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 194
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From: Minneapolis
I have a '65 with the NP 4 speed trans, which means I typically only use 2, 3 and 4. I find that double-clutching helps if I'm going to down-shift into 2nd while moving faster than about 5 mph. IMO if you want the trans to last a good long time do what it takes to make things go easy. No reason to try to speed shift. I also will lug the engine in 3rd more often than trying to force it into 2nd. Seems like the engine handles it well to me.
I usually like to just take the trans out of gear and release the clutch as I come to a stop, then depress the clutch and drop it in second as the speed of the vehicle matches transmission output to the transmission input which is running at the engine idle speed. Complicated way to explain a simple thing. It's double-clutching, but you don't need to rev the engine while the clutch is released, because the wheel speed of the car matches up with engine idle speed.
I usually like to just take the trans out of gear and release the clutch as I come to a stop, then depress the clutch and drop it in second as the speed of the vehicle matches transmission output to the transmission input which is running at the engine idle speed. Complicated way to explain a simple thing. It's double-clutching, but you don't need to rev the engine while the clutch is released, because the wheel speed of the car matches up with engine idle speed.
Last edited by Hakk; Feb 16, 2008 at 11:14 AM.
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I agree, Hakk. I wouldn't rev the engine to make it shift easier either, infact just the opposite. Your explanation isn't complicated, it's exactly correct. In fact, as you're rolling along at the right (slow) speed, you can just easily touch the gas and pull on the shift tward second gear, and just as you get above idle, it'll drop right in, without even pushing on the clutch pedal. *everything turning at complimentary speeds.
I also have the Granny four speed. And with the 9" rear and 3:08 gearing, I start off in first gear comfortably. But with both the original and the 9" rears, the tranny overall works/acts the same.
Simply put, it's a "shifting art" that you have to master in order to drive your old ride with finess. Sounds like you understand it well.
I also have the Granny four speed. And with the 9" rear and 3:08 gearing, I start off in first gear comfortably. But with both the original and the 9" rears, the tranny overall works/acts the same.
Simply put, it's a "shifting art" that you have to master in order to drive your old ride with finess. Sounds like you understand it well.
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 481
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From: Deep River, CT.
Because of driving bigger trucks most of my life that didn't have synchronized gears, I double clutch all the time. It's second nature to me. Up or downshifting. I don't downshift unless needed. Will roll up to a stop sign or light and slip into neutral as engine gets to idle speed
Last edited by IICAP; Feb 16, 2008 at 08:37 PM. Reason: spelling
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 127
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From: Southwest Washington
it's all about matching your rpms with your momentum. it's always good to clutch, but when you can match your rpms and slip into the next gear up or down without clutching or raking the gears excessively then you're shifting it with optimum finess. the more smoothe you shift the better your powertrain will wear and the better fuel mileage you get! basically you want to shift into your desired gear when the rpms are just right- you match the rpms, you don't shift and let out the clutch and let the engine drop or raise rpms for you. if you're doing that you can't go wrong
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 773
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I am not currently double-clutching (in fact I have yet to practice), but I sort of do perform the engine-transmission RPM matching thing. What I do on a typical downshift:
1. Say I'm in 3rd gear. I press down the pedal to disengage the clutch.
2. I'm completely off the accelerator.
3. I don't double-clutch but just throw the shifter forward into 2nd. It has always just slipped into gear without a hitch.
4. Then I subconsciously bring the engine RPMs up to what I think is closest to my speed and 2nd gear.
5. I release the clutch and usually I feel at most a very small lurch. But my RPMs matched up pretty closely.
I'm 16 and have only been driving this truck (or any vehicle for that matter) for a couple months. I think I'm getting pretty good at shifting without double-clutching. But I may be wrong. However aren't these transmissions all synchronized except for reverse gear? So technically the synchronizers take the place of double-clutching, although double-clutching never hurts and may help a bit depending on different situations. That's my analysis of everything you guys have explained so far.
1. Say I'm in 3rd gear. I press down the pedal to disengage the clutch.
2. I'm completely off the accelerator.
3. I don't double-clutch but just throw the shifter forward into 2nd. It has always just slipped into gear without a hitch.
4. Then I subconsciously bring the engine RPMs up to what I think is closest to my speed and 2nd gear.
5. I release the clutch and usually I feel at most a very small lurch. But my RPMs matched up pretty closely.
I'm 16 and have only been driving this truck (or any vehicle for that matter) for a couple months. I think I'm getting pretty good at shifting without double-clutching. But I may be wrong. However aren't these transmissions all synchronized except for reverse gear? So technically the synchronizers take the place of double-clutching, although double-clutching never hurts and may help a bit depending on different situations. That's my analysis of everything you guys have explained so far.
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Southwest Washington
Well you're way ahead of a lot of 16 year olds, that's for sure! I don't think from 2nd to granny-low is synchro'd but correct me if I'm wrong guys. I'm not sure what my rear-end is in my '75, but I just never downshift into 1st. I'd say if you don't feel hardly anything when you let the clutch out, you're doing pretty darn good. You just don't want to load that engine clutch up and burn it while, in turn, loading the engine up while it brings up rpms to match. And of course don't ever dump the clutch, slower and smoother the better.
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In the old ones like my '62, you can forget about down-shifting into 1st gear. With the original Dana rear, you can idle it in first and walk next to it. You can pull stumps at just over idle in 1st..LOL And no, 1st. is not syncronized. 1st. gear is to pull the support posts out from under your girl-friend's porch when you get mad at her w/ just the drop of the clutch. LOL
Ford Parts Specialist
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 88,826
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From: Simi Valley, CA
Originally Posted by matt2491
The Ford 9" has fully synchronized gears minus reverse. That's what my shop manual says...
Ford 3.03: Introduced in 1963 on all trucks and some passenger cars...by 1967, all the vehicles that came with 3 speeds have it.
Someone's usual response: My truck doesn't have one, because first gear clashes.
The answer: Your truck was made prior to 1963, or you have a Borg Warner T-85N 3 speed overdrive (thru 1972), or...the usual problem...the first gear syncro brass blocker ring is worn down.
There's only one on the 1st gear syncronizer, (two on second/third syncro). The exact same blocker rings (C4AZ-7107-C and/or -D) were used in Ford 4 speed toploaders, and are available from NAPA, other parts stores.
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