I plan to tackle my IPR this weekend. The truck runs great except at idle. I have had an annoying rpm fluctuation on and off for the last several months and I can't take it anymore. Lately the fluctuation has turned to a repetative rrrruuuummmmmm.........rrrruuuuummmm....rrrruuummm mm....rrrruuuummmmm..while at idle. Again the motor runs great under acceleration. Its only at idle that I hear the problem. Tuner position makes no difference.

Periodically my truck takes longer to start when it is warm than it does when it is cold. I have read where this can be related to the IPR orings also.

David Lott from DI is convinced it is a problem with the IPR so between his suggestion and what I have read on FTE I feel pretty confident that I am barking up the right tree.

My question:

Should I buy the rebuild kit and disassemble, clean, and rebuild or should I just buy a second IPR and swap them out? If I buy a second one then I can swap them quickly and be on the road. When time allows I can rebuild the old one and toss her into the tool box as a spare for future repairs.

I have never done this so I would hate to spend $150 on new IPR to find out that all I needed was an o ring.

So what is your experience? How often is it an oring or something simple/cheap. Could it be my IPR solenoid? How often does that entire unit need to be replaced?

Give me some direction guys.

Thanks!

 

Lets see $11(from IH) for the O-rings or $150. Recently did this,118k, not saying it was easy but not impossible. The write up in mods and maint. was very helpful. I had a impact socket that fit perfect so did not have to make the one in the instructions. Also used a shaft block instead of the pipe wrench method. I did have to redo the solenoid nut just like it said, it must be tight! It really ran bad with the nut not tight enough, so I would not think it is your solenoid. It starts and idles great now.

 

If you don't have access to a scanner
The sure way to eliminate the IPR as a variable , would be to replace it ...You will know if it was the O ring ,,the second its out ...

 

Hey Nutz,

Excuse my ignorance, but what is a shaft block?

 

I doubt it is your ICP, but the book says to check it first. Unplug the connector on the ICP while it is running and see if the idle smooths out. If it does, the ICP is supect.

If not, it could be a number of things including the IPR.The IPR rebuild is fairly cheap and easy. If the unit has debris in it, that could be the culprit. Sometimes, depending on your mods, tuning may need tweaking. If you have stock split shots, you may consider pulling the tuner/chip and see if there is any difference.

 

Just calld the Ford dealer. They want $39 bucks for the rebuild kit. Three orings and nut for $39 bucks????

Anyone have the oring details?

 

After listening to the motor idle David Lott think it is a gummed up IPR. I have unplugged the ICP while getting the rumm... rummm and it continues. I feel pretty certain the ICP is not he issue. No oil in the ICP either.

About a month ago I ran some gunk motor flush before my oil change. The rumm...rummm went away for a while but now has retuned.

As far as the tunes go. I have been runnning the chip for over a year now. The troubles have only been around a few months. Something changed/gummed/went bad in the motor to start the problem. Just not certain what.

Thanks for the tips. Keep them coming.

 

The Ford kit actually contains 2 orings, connector gasket, nut, and a new sleeve/spacer if it is part # 4C3Z-9C977-AA. It is $30.20 even here.


The Dipaco part # is DF6TZ-9C977-AN. It contains the 3 orings and nut. I got mine from Beans, but after you would pay shipping etc, who knows? I would try my local International dealer if you have one closeby.

I have never ordered from Dipaco and don't know if they sell to individual customers. Perhaps someone has a good source.

 

International dealer has the same kit for $16.02. Think I'll be going there instead of the stealership. I think I have resolved to buy the rebuild kit and tear apart the old one. If I had a problem withthe solenoid I think I would be having issues at all speeds, not just idle.

I am hoping to find something obvious, blown oring, debris, gummed piston, something I can point my finger at and say "ah ya!" that was the culprit.

I'll post my finds for all to see.

 

Mine is doing the rump at Idle also and is bucking while driving. We unpluged the ICP and the engine died. Does that mean it's the IPR for sure? The tech told me to drive it for a week to rule out anymore air in the lines from the HPOP replacement, but he thinks the IPR is going bad.
Does that sound right? Should I just replace the IPR now?

 

A shaft block is an aluminum block with a hole(some have 3)in it, all different sizes, then it is cut in half through the middle. Put in a vise and tighten. I used them on dirt dike susupension, shock shafts and dampening rods and the likes.

 

Thanks Nutz. I like that idea. I don't like the idea using a pipe wrench on
the threads of the IPR.

 

The pic is wrong ,,,, the wrench goes on the small barrel

 

Thanks Rick. At least there are options.

Is this the pic you are referring to

 

Completed the IPR rebuild over the weekend. It was one of those projects that fought me the entire way. Special tool did not work (wrong socket), broken 1/2 drive ratchet, had to use a 1 1/8 wrench a fraction of a turn at a time, run to parts store for 29 MM socket to get back together, baby sitting my 18 month old while trying to work........frustrating.

Besides the trouble removing and replacing the IPR the actual rebuild was very easy. My old orings and seal looked to be fine. I replaced anyways. The piston was not moving feely inside the unit when I pulled it from the motor. I shock the IPR up and down pretty aggresively and could not hear/feel it sliding in there.

After pulling it apart I cleaned everything with simple green, compressed air, and PB penetrating oil. The spring action inside the valve seemed to move freely using the screwdriver method described. I oiled everything up installed the lubed seals and fought it back into the HPOP.

I drove the truck only a few miles yesterday and to work this morning so not sure if it solved my rummm....ruuummmm issuee or not.

I have several sales calls to make this week. I'll post the results as they come in.


BTW..... don't buy the 1 1/8 Mr. Goodwrench socket at OReilly's to make your IPR removal tool. The socket has a hollow insert in the center. The hole in the insert is NOT big enough for the IPR to pass thru. It will not slide onto the IPR far enough to reach the IPR nut.

Think OReilly's will honor the Lifetime warranty on the socket even with the 1" flat iron welded to it?