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I got to replace rear right hanger on 95' F150 4WD so I might as well replace the bushings and probably some hardware also. I am not trying to modify just trying to get it thru Maryland inspection. I have read some posts here and may chose to do this myself to save the mulah and also I feel a sense of accomplishment when I successfully complete these tasks. Anyways, if I go this way I would probably go with one of 2 methods
1) drill out rivets and then punch out (GOOD - I already own a drill and a set of titanium bits, just need to buy a punch ... BAD - accessability. Maybe Harbor Freight got something for me). This would be my preferred method and several people swore by doing it this way.
or
2) get an air tool and some grinding attachements and grind down rivets.
(GOOD - better accessability ... BAD - Sparks and I have to buy tool and attachements as well as an air compressor ... I need one of these anyways. Tool + about $30 and compressor HF has a 2.5 HP on sale for under $100)
Besides needing to get the right weather on a weekend within the next three weekends I'll throw this in.
I got 2 estimates
1) Trick Trucks said if I got the parts they would do it for $150 a side. I think I could maybe get them to do both sides for $225 - 250 maybe.
or
2) a little shop near me said $70 per hour and estimates 1 hour off top of his head . I trust his estimate somewhat but they still are in business.
These shops have more tools and a LIFT.
Under these circumstances DIY ??? which way ???
I got to buy the parts anyway I go. I know Ford sells the hanger and shackle parts but don't know if they sell bolts, nuts and washers since they were riveted on and would you opt for the POLY aftermarket BUSHINGS ?
Next job is knocking the wheels off the drums they are rusted on he said. I've been spraying them down periodically.
if your close enough I got tools-these shops $70 an hour man they kill us-I do most my own work-they charge per hour what I make a day-can't compete with that
Check out lmctruck.com You can get everything you need, including bushings and hardware. Dont waste your money on having a shop do the work, its fairly straight forward. If you could get your hands on an air hammer with a chisel attachment, that would be key. I had to replace my front spring bucket, one side i did with a grinder and another guy, the other side i did by myself with a air hammer and it took me half the time. Plus with that no sparks. When your done just pop the other end of the rivet out. This way you can have some more tools and save yourself a couple hundred bucks.
I had the spring perches and shackles on my F350 done. Both sides. The parts were cheap from my local spring store. But it was labor that killed. I couldnt do them myself as where I used to live used to get real mad at me when I worked on my own stuff. Well I had the shackles done at the shop I work at. It still took the most part of the day. The bolts were seized in the eyes of the leafs. It took a while to get them out. If you have the time id do it yourself, and if your going to buy a compressor and be using air tools especially air grinders and drills and such, your going to have to get a big one. My Craftsman one cant keep up with the air grinder and I have to wait for it to fill up then I can use it, then I wait. Ill get a better one, some day.
I wanted to put in two cents about the air compressor too. Check the SCFM rating on the compressors, not the horse power. The 2.5 hp is not going to work very well for most air tools. A young guy can't buy eveything at once, but you can buy quality tools and not have to replace them. Most tool rental places rent compressors. If you don't need it often, until you can afford a good one, rent it. I rented one about 4 times before I purchased one.
Good luck Frank
I've done this both ways. The shackles and hangers on Ford trucks are notorious for rusting out. I had my old Ranger done at a local spring shop for about $300. When I needed to do them on my F350, I did the job myself. It's really not too hard a job. I used a combination of angle grinder, cutoff tool, and air chisel to remove the old rivets, using whichever was easiest for that particular rivet. Sparks shouldn't be much of an issue with the rear fuel tank, since you will be primarily working outside the frame rail. Since I don't have the equipment to install large rivets in the hangers, I replaced them with Grade 8 bolts. The shackle and hanger packages from Ford did not come with bolts; I had to buy those seperately. Overall, it took an afternoon and part of an evening of driveway mechanics to complete.
Thanks for the compliment. Yes I am a young 51 year old at that. I kind of do have the same issue that my condo assoc. doesn't like any heavy duty mechanical work being done on their premises. I can see if where I work will let me work in thier yard or go to my fathers house in Bowie which I will have to work on the street. I live in Crofton and can't do anything this Sat AM because it's Pasadena Sportfishing Flea Market which I go to annually even though I don't need anything except a jackplate but will end up with everything but. The compressor was 5 SCFM @90 PSI which I heard was pushing it.
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