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<TABLE><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top width="100%">I want to do a 'primer black' paint job on my 70 F-100, what would be the best way to do this?
Also, I've never painted a whole car, I'm sure a lot of you have done it so, what should I know before I dive into this new project? I know I'm gonna wanna sand down to bare metal, the paint on it now seems to be the paint job it left the factory with, so in the last 38 years it's become fairly crappy, any other things I should be doing before or during the painting?
And one more thing, Would I need to wet sand with a flat paint job? I'm thinkin not but I don't know.
I've been told that a primer doesn't provide as much procetcion, is this true? or will primer be ok to paint a daily driver with? or would it work if I put another primer underneath the black, maybe go black on top of a white primer. Althought, the black paint I'm plannin to use is Rustoleum 'Flat Protective Enamel' is this the same as a primer or not?
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Basically most primers are crap to use as a top coat, they absorbe water and will cause rust spots through the primer.
The rustoleum paint will protect for awhile but will eventually fail top rock chips. scratches and mostly UV rays because of the lack of a clear coat.
Your best bet is go with Base/clear system. The black will be normaly flat like most other base/clear paint set ups. Whats different is that your clear will be flat and have excellant rock,scratch and UV protection.
Basically most primers are crap to use as a top coat, they absorbe water and will cause rust spots through the primer.
The rustoleum paint will protect for awhile but will eventually fail top rock chips. scratches and mostly UV rays because of the lack of a clear coat.
Your best bet is go with Base/clear system. The black will be normaly flat like most other base/clear paint set ups. Whats different is that your clear will be flat and have excellant rock,scratch and UV protection.
I agree, if you put a bunch of time into preping your truck for paint and either use primer or rustoleum chances are the crappy paint that is on there now will be a much better paint job you sink your money and time into.
Even thought the truck is a daily driver and not a show truck you should still try to put a good effort into the paint and the overall protection of the truck.
I painted a faded yellow VW bug with purple Rustolem paint in high school, it looked OK for about a week then everthing started chipping away and fading... By the end of summer it looked like junk on wheels... A good paint job is very important.
Maybe you have a friend with a shop in there garage with a compressor and some tools, you could borrow for a while to paint your own truck...or go to a community college that offers autobody repair sometimes you can get a smoke'n paint job for cost from a student. Just my $.02 Good luck.
Would a flat black paint be better than flat black primer but still have the same look, just better protection? I plan on doing the same thing to my truck this year.
O yes by a 1000% actual flat black paint is the way to go. I have seen primer paint jobs and the vehicles looked Ok for a short time. Then soon as there was a little bit of moisture it started to rust and looked like crap. Rustoleum has its place and purpose just not as an automotive paint. Primer is a primer and will never be as good as actual paint.
I have heared of a base/clear flat black system untill I finally seen this on trucks "spike TV". The finished product was a flat or satin "im not shure". This was a base/clear system and it turned out awsomeee.
I would like to add just a few things here. All the statements about primer NOT being a protective top coat are true. The primer that would come closest to being such a top coat would be Epoxy Primer, which would have to go over treated bare metal. It would NOT seal as well as a top coat, but it would be BY FAR the best protecting primer for application with no top coat.
The other thing to keep in mind is that a flat or semi flat finish is quite difficult to get on such that it looks uniform. The person that mixes the paint and wields the paint gun will have to have their stuff together for sure.
I agree with the comment that for the best protection, black base coat with a flat clear coat would offer the most protection, but since you're not going for gloss anyway, I would see if Urethane single stage is available in a flat or semi flat black. I personally would highly prefer a semi flat. True flat would be a Witch spelled with a B to keep clean.
Where would I be able to find the semi-flat black in a spray can version?
I do not currently have an air compressor or a spray gun, and since I am a high school student makin minimum wage I do not see these as future purchases any time soon.
Where would I be able to find the semi-flat black in a spray can version?
I do not currently have an air compressor or a spray gun, and since I am a high school student makin minimum wage I do not see these as future purchases any time soon.
Seriously i would hold off on painting your truck. The spray cans are good to get you buy in a pinch on a small job but your truck will look even worse if you rattle can the whole truck. Save some money and take it somewhere. Go to a paint shop and talk to someone there, you can maybe work out a deal where you do all of the prep, like old paint scuffing/removal, and all they have to do is shoot it... See what it will run you. I know where you're at, my old 78 4x4 i had in high school was a rotted out clunker, after painting my buddies VW bug i said the heck with painting my truck and bought beer instead...
I painted my truck flat black with John Deere Blitz Black. It's a flat black synthetic enamel one stage paint. I got a gallon for $26 and a quart of reducer for $15. It is available in rattle can too. I think the rattle cans are like $4 each. I painted my truck with a small craftsman compressor and a $20 dollar conventional gun from wal-mart. It has been painted for almost three years now and it it still looks fine with no rusting through or any bad side effects from painting over the original paint in some spots and rattle can primer in others. You can see pics in my gallery of what it looked like before I painted it. It is by no means a great paint job but it's a good 10 foot paint job, I've gotten lots of compliments on the truck.
That does look pretty good. It's hard to tell in the pics, but how uniform is it? I found a spray gun in a box of stuff I got from an auction and I have a good air comp. I'd really like to get this done this year to end a few of the multi-colored redneck jokes I get from my friends.
You can get it at any John Deere Dealer (except in Cali).
It's pretty uniform, you can see some imperfections when you stand at the back and look down the side if the sun is right but I wasn't worried about that. This was my first time painting anything and I new it wasn't going to be great, and I wasn't striving for great. I just wanted it flat black and all one color. I'm sure mine would have come out even better if I had practiced more but I didn't have anything to practice on, and like I said I wasn't going for perfect.
consider holding off for a bit and in the meantime, get a second job at a local paint and body shop. Trade shop work for the knowledge and eventual sanding and repaint of your truck. Then, work for them like a madman, keep track of your hours and learn everything you can. You'll have little or no money in it, it'll be done more correctly, they'll get a shop guy for little money and you'll have the skills of a lifetime.
A friend of mine is going to wyotech pretty soon to be a paint/body guy, and he owes me a favor. When he graduates he's gonna paint my truck for me, I'm just trying to get it all one color for now.
Thats a good idea, but I already have 2 jobs, not sure how much more work I want to do.
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