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Bill, thanks for your input. There are a couple of suggestions that I'm not sure of the meaning. what is "DEGAS"? "What is the winter thing"?
I will boil the stat and determin the temp that it opens. What makes me suspicious is from day one I do not recall high coolant temps.
Question: A '97 PSD runing at 200* will the OEM gauge register normal and the "Needle" upright in the middle? (Does that make sense?)
Also: will the stock OEM fan free wheel if you give it a spin? Mine feels sluggish. If you take a blade at the top (12 o'clock) and try to spin it it will stop somewhere around 1-2 O'clock.
To test the clutch its a PITA. You need to strobe it.
When you test the T-stat. Check the temp for complete close.
I have been playing with some stats for winter. Basic its the same open close but have been changing the flow. I would like to get the coolant temp as high as i can but still be able to control the oil temp.
The stant is a POS.
I think bobs 203 is made by stant. Cannot say for shure.
Winter thing is winter front (cardboard if you will). Just to see if you can get the temp up some. What happens is it will open at X temp but can flow to much. With your temps its closed or leaking. Or you may not make enough heat with light use.
I have seen PSD's that can loose coolant temp at idle with the blower at max.
My van will run warmer with a stock tune. If i use a 60hp tune the motor is cooler. This BS starts to happen with the removal of the EBPV. The valve can hold alot of heat in the motor. I dont use the POS EPBV.
Bill, I'm stock except for the FPR BB mod and 10K. I do have the Cooant filter but it has been turned off since I installed the replacement 203* Stat. I have found that my new coolant temp gauge is running b/t 15 & 20*cool.
The replaced stat gained me 15* to 180* now add another 15-20* for the temp gauge and I have 195-200* so I'm back in the ballpark. I just need a decent gauge to read the correct temp.
My water & Tranny temp as well as my Fuel Press are not the top of the line gauges and I'm trying to get hold of these folks to get a replacement water gauge. I did buy a new AutoMeter water Temp off of E-bay yesterday so that will for sure be my primary H2* temp gauge.
By the way I just received my "CURE" in the mail. Just what I needed, another project Ha haha.
Hells Bells I just might die before I get all of these bumps ironed out.
This BS starts to happen with the removal of the EBPV. The valve can hold alot of heat in the motor. I dont use the POS EPBV.
Bill
I don,t mean to bud in but you are rite Bill the EBPV does hold the heat I have very short runs to work and it,s been dam cold here lately which is giving me some problems because just before winter I gutted my valve and had the ped modded I think it was a mistake so I have a stock ped and valve here to put back on I KNOW IT IS A POS system but I think I need it for the short runs I do all winter
Bill, I'm stock except for the FPR BB mod and 10K. I do have the Cooant filter but it has been turned off since I installed the replacement 203* Stat. I have found that my new coolant temp gauge is running b/t 15 & 20*cool.
The replaced stat gained me 15* to 180* now add another 15-20* for the temp gauge and I have 195-200* so I'm back in the ballpark. I just need a decent gauge to read the correct temp.
My water & Tranny temp as well as my Fuel Press are not the top of the line gauges and I'm trying to get hold of these folks to get a replacement water gauge. I did buy a new AutoMeter water Temp off of E-bay yesterday so that will for sure be my primary H2* temp gauge.
By the way I just received my "CURE" in the mail. Just what I needed, another project Ha haha.
Hells Bells I just might die before I get all of these bumps ironed out.
Rog
Rog
Where did you install the sensor for the gauge?
I really judge all by the oil temp, but getting the coolant temp up helps the combustion.
You dirty Rat! I did not even know you got a cure.
I don,t mean to bud in but you are rite Bill the EBPV does hold the heat I have very short runs to work and it,s been dam cold here lately which is giving me some problems because just before winter I gutted my valve and had the ped modded I think it was a mistake so I have a stock ped and valve here to put back on I KNOW IT IS A POS system but I think I need it for the short runs I do all winter
sorry again to bud in
hope you get your problem figured out Roger
Waljon, you are not butting in, feel free to jump in at any time whether it be for a solution or a problem.
I don,t mean to bud in but you are rite Bill the EBPV does hold the heat I have very short runs to work and it,s been dam cold here lately which is giving me some problems because just before winter I gutted my valve and had the ped modded I think it was a mistake so I have a stock ped and valve here to put back on I KNOW IT IS A POS system but I think I need it for the short runs I do all winter
sorry again to bud in
hope you get your problem figured out Roger
You are so correct! You can reinstall the valve. I rather not deal with it.
Its just not right having to waste fuel to make heat. Fuel is to propel me down the road and heat is supposed to be a by product! The PSD like all diesels need heat in the motor.
Needs higher temp stat with less flow to overcome the condition.
Rog, glad to see the new T-Stat worked .. now give us a report on the "cure" when you get it installed .. ya got way to much time on your hands, damn wish I did but I almost got the truck outside (detailed) the way I want it. So now the fun begins, money projects such as 6637, cat delete and down pipe .. etc.