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Interesting. I just wondered if anyone here had tried these headers for around $300. Any others I have seen are more like $900. It looks like two outfits are selling them, and theres a set for $99 that a guy never put on and sold his exc. (This may have been the bid, I forget)
I bought a set of the $180 stainless headers for my truck a few months back. They sure are shiny! Right now they're doing a great job of sitting in my garage and not doing anything. I am intending on installing them in the spring once the weather gets warmer out, but there is also part of me that says "Hey, I like the fact that the truck is so quiet right now when I'm on my long highway trips, and it still makes plenty of power." I am somewhat torn as to whether or not to put them on.
My goal is to get improved highway mpg by doing headers, cat, and muffler. Not sure if this is realistic or not since I see so many conflicting reports. Added power would be nice, but definitely not a requirement. What are your goals?
i witnessed 2 sets break after a mud ride with less than a day of install. they got hot and when they were introduced to splashing water, you got a cracked collector flange and cracked pipes!!
some have had no problems with them, but it's a gamble. the BANKS run 1000-1100 for headers and Y pipe, $1500 for the stinger kit!! doug thorley runs about the same for the headers/ Y pipe combo!! both of these brands have THICK flangs, and THICK tubes, so you get what you pay for kinda thing.
i run the banks kit, and have loved it since i bolted it on!!
They've been doing pretty well - deep water not an issue, so far, but they weren't that hot either.
Decent pick up in power above 3500RPMs (accelerating empty). Seat of the pants, but it's definitely there.
Been through some high-temp high-load situations with them, they didn't discolor (much)
Read that thread carefully though, I came up with a few issues that needed to be addressed - like a mounting hole that wasn't in the right spot. Or notching the chassis (gasp!). Or getting better/longer bolts than what they gave me - they'd have pulled the threads out of the heads.
01 f-350 v-10 I bought the Ford Racing jet hot coated stainless headers. They list them for an 04, but the part # for the manifold was the same, and the engine is the same, so I figured why not. They are very nice. The passenger side wouldn't clear the valve cover though. I believe that the set I got had one pipe welded on wrong. Being a tool & die guy, I made a spacer, and got longer bolts. They sound great, look good, and don't leak. They have the female threads for the EGR, and a plug if you don't need it(like mine).The best part, being in salt laden Michigan, and the truck being my plow truck, is the lifetime rust through warranty they give you with the jet hot coating. The cost was around $400 with gaskets, studs, and bolts that are too short. It seems to have a little more oomph in the mid to high ranges, and the fuel economy seems to be a little better. I am planning some other things for the exhaust, as the stock y-pipe looks like it is a major limiting factor, but until the snow stops flying, I can't afford to be without the truck.
I have found that headers do very little on the newer engines as they tend to be shorties. They tend to rob a little of your lowend. I lost lowend with shorties on my 04 ranger with the 4.0, also on my 07 stang with the 4.6. However, I decided to spring for a set of long tubes for the stang and it restored the midrange and improved topend. Long tubes cost more, are harder to install, but at least now I can feel where my money was spent. My buddy put a set of MAC long tubes on his ranger 4.0 and it was much better than my shorties. Headers can get to be a science with scavenging effects and what have you to get power in the ranges that you need. I don't think anyone makes long tubes for the V-10. I haven't done a V-10, just sharing my experience's with shortie headers on some other of fords modern engines. The stock manifolds seem to flow verywell these days, about as good as shorties without the loss of lowend.
They do make long tubes for the V-10? That should work out pretty good then. I wanted to try a set of headers on my 01 V-10 when I had it, but never got a round to it. I had been using jba, but went with bassani on the stang as they make a step down LT headers instead of just one tube size. This also helps spread the torque in the lower ranges instaed of all at the top. JBA is a good quality header as is banks. Thorley and headman are old school names, but I'm not familar with thier new stuff, I'm sure it's good quality. Cheap isn't allways the best way to go I've found, as you get what you pay for. Good headers these days are an investment, but unlike the old headers, they last forever.
I have the Thorleys on my truck. (Pics in my Gallery) Thorleys arn't cheap, but they are a tad less money than the Banks. Thorley's have the thickest wall tubes you can get for the V10. So far I'm happy with mine, good power increase. The Thorleys and Banks have a tri-Y design which helps generate torque.
I read an article a while back on Bassani mid length headers for the 4.6l. The dyno showed the Bassanis made quite a bit more power than the BBK long tubes they replaced.
I have found that headers do very little on the newer engines as they tend to be shorties. They tend to rob a little of your lowend.
Without changing anything but the headers, leaving the stock exhaust intact, putting el-cheapo eBay headers on my V10 didn't effect the low-end one bit.
It did however improve the mid-to-high RPM range. Enough to feel, enough to put some adrenaline back in me when the pedal is to the floor, after driving the thing for 5 years and getting really used to it
If you lost low-end with shorties, the individual tube diameter might be too big.
I have 3.73 gears, and I'd notice any low-end torque loss.
I also went into Upstate NY on my brother-in-law's land and pulled 2ft. diameter trees around all day. Definitely no loss of low-end torque