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Are there any kits available to make a stroker engine out of a 400. I know there are few aftermarket 351/400 parts. I know you can have a crank specially made but i dont want to spend $1600. thanks
Matt there's NO Kits available for the 400..... Sorry
But there's lots you can do with what you already have inside the 400.
The easiest stroker mod is to off grind the 400 crank to 4.170 and use the 300 Six rod to give you a 426 Stroker, Add flat top piston for a real stump puller.
Thanks shazam I will look around the junkyard tomorrow for a good 300 I6 I am sure there are a bunch. I never really looked. The crank has already been ground but I dont know how far yet I will have it mic'd.
Would this work in a 351 M as well?
My dad actually took the crank and had it ground. I dont know why It was perfectly fine. Now it is sitting on my garage floor next to about seven others mostly FE cranks. I seriously dont know why they need to be ground. I will let you know what I find out about them.
Wrong rods guys. You want the 240 I6. Spend a few hours getting dirty at the yard pulling apart 2 motors or just break open the piggy bank and spend the money.
Buy them from DSC for $80 a set.
http://www.dscmotorsport.com/crankshafts.htm
>Wrong rods guys. You want the 240 I6. Spend a few hours
>getting dirty at the yard pulling apart 2 motors or just
>break open the piggy bank and spend the money.
>
>Buy them from DSC for $80 a set.
>http://www.dscmotorsport.com/crankshafts.htm
Yes I was wrong on the rod for this stroker .. I dug this old thread up.
Yesterday I ran across the idea of using 240-6 rods. Seems they're 6.79" long with a 2.12" rod journal. Offset grinding to that size you could get a stroke somewhere near 4.18" which would net about 427 cid with a 4.03" bore.
The 240 rods are not a recent idea. They were using them in 460 strokers more than ten years ago. The 400 shares the same block height. The 300 rods will work in a 351W stroker.
The only recent findings are the cheap, off the shelf, Hypereutectics flat tops from KB or ACL that happen to fit with no mandatory machine work.
Someone said once the stroke exceeds the bore size, you run into problems. They said it becomes a low torque engine only. An "under square" engine. They used the Chevy 305 engine for example. No upper rpm. I've heard this more than once. Can anyone elaborate?
I think your're basically right about long stroke/high torque. The 400 how ever is a square bore to start with. It has problems getting into high rpm's due to the long "rods" and high reciprocating weight. I believe once you exceed 4" bore on a street engine with today's fuel preignition and detonation become big problems due to the distance the flame front has to travel. At least that's what I have read.
>Someone said once the stroke exceeds the bore size, you run
>into problems. They said it becomes a low torque engine
>only. An "under square" engine. They used the Chevy 305
>engine for example. No upper rpm. I've heard this more than
>once. Can anyone elaborate?
I don't believe this statement
4.060 Bore 4.200 Stroke so my motor should be a slug ???
Only low end Tq. and won't rev. Hmmmmmmm...
Highest Rpm's turned to date 8250 Rpm's 22 Sec. Run
And the Hp rating is real on this Motor @ 799 Hp.
So a 4.250" stroked 400 for 440CI would be a "junk motor" because there's not enough bore with the stroke? I only need good power to 6k rpm. Power could diminish from there. I was recently going to build an aluminum headed 460, but opted to try to build an aluminum headed 440 CI for weight savings and nearly the same amount of power.Aluminum headed 440 CI motor at 450 lbs (perhaps) oppose to a 540 lb aluminum headed 460.
You have to realize that all Chevrolet/GMC/Dodge/Toyota/Honda/Kia motors are nothing more than crappy little "slugs". You are entirely welcome for the advice.
Is your motor nitrous assisted? 799 hp would be 1.8 HP Per Cubic Inch which is high for a naturally aspirated engine.Not saying i DON'T BELEIVE IT. Just curious. Thanks...