360 Major overheating problem
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From: Fl
Not so good....
Ok. Ive been dealing with this for a while now. As I said in the last post I though that it was fixed with the dual e-fans. Turns out its not, and it only delays the overheating. Ive had it out a couple times and like before, on the road it runs great at about 170-180. Idleing it will get up to 200+, which still isnt bad. But when Im out in the woods with it, its still overheating. It will actually get so hot that the guage is buried at 250+ and will shut itself off. Im guessing the starter is gettin hot too when its gets that high because it wont start again until it cools down. It sounds like the battery is dead (real slow cranking) but when it gets cooler it starts fine. The starter is already wrapped with the heat guard stuff.
So my next step was to buy a195 T-stat. Ive heard the higher the stat, the more time the water has to cool in the radiator and will keep the motor cooler longer...No such luck. I sat for 5 minutes and was already at about 235-240.
So.....whats next?
So my next step was to buy a195 T-stat. Ive heard the higher the stat, the more time the water has to cool in the radiator and will keep the motor cooler longer...No such luck. I sat for 5 minutes and was already at about 235-240.
So.....whats next?
Post Fiend
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 6,056
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From: Union, Washington
My opinion is that it is to late for the starter already. The heat has already screwed your starter. As to your overheating problem, Have you tried backing your timing of like 5 to 10°? I had and engine do this and the vacuum advance was just to vigorous pulling in to much advance with 38° for max mechanical advance.
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From: Fl
Your proabbly right about the starter. But it does work fine when its not that hot. So I'll probably leave it on the til it goes. About the timing, i havent done that. The previous post said 12, so thats what its at now. I'll definalty give it a shot if you think it will work though.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,338
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From: Grants Pass, Oregon
Your not the only one who's having a heat issue with an FE engine! i have not had mine get above 230(ive chickened out and shut it off before it could go higher),but on some of our recent really hot days,it would get up to say 210 or so in traffic or at low speeds,and as i would go to park it,especially if i backed into a parking space,it would hit 230 really quick! I have not checked my timing yet,this truck doesnt have a fan shroud,and im unsure if i have the largest radiator for this application. it sounds as if youve already made improvements to your fan and many other items on yours and your still having problems. If your only seriously overheating it on the trails,is there any possibility that your combination of tires and gearing is causing this? Did you own this truck with smaller tires,or has it had 38's the entire time youve owned it? what axle gears are you running? assuming that you might have 4.10's,even in low range,your going to turning pretty low RPM's,the water pump is going slow,yet if your in mud,the engines working pretty hard,could these conditions be causing your issues?
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From: Fl
It will definatly worry you when its so hot it shuts down, and dont recommend it....lol. The truck had 37's on it when I got it, and recently put on the 38's. Its got 4.10's. It really dosnt matter if im on a trail, in the mud, or just driving it hard its almost guaranteed to get hot. It is definatly worse in the mud, but either way something Im hoping will stop it.
You may want to try a fan shroud, Ive heard that is a big issure with these motors. Mine had one, but I took it off and changed to electrics fans. It is definatly worse since I put the 195* in it. I went to the grocery store couple days ago (about 5 miles). As I got home i sat for about 2-3 min and it was already about 230.
You may want to try a fan shroud, Ive heard that is a big issure with these motors. Mine had one, but I took it off and changed to electrics fans. It is definatly worse since I put the 195* in it. I went to the grocery store couple days ago (about 5 miles). As I got home i sat for about 2-3 min and it was already about 230.
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,338
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From: Grants Pass, Oregon
My other F250 has the shroud,and i will probably switch it to this truck,and see what kind of improvements i get.. I would be interested to know if these high gears your running are part of the problem? is anybody following this post running 36" or taller tires on an otherwise similar F250 highboy with either 4.56 or 4.88 gears,and if so,are they having overheating issues too? Ive got a set of 35"BFG A/t's that i wouldnt mind putting on mine someday(after ive got the shroud,and got everthing dialed in),but im also running 4.10's,and ive got a 390,so if its going to cause problems i may rethink! SO,as it stands youve got 2 of us here that would really appreciate input and suggestions on this issue...........Many thanks!
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From: Fl
Ive owned quite a few trucks with large tires and even lower gears. They have never affected the tempature. Yeah it will change rpms, but never seen a difference in temp. This is the 1st truck ive owned with this much cooling problems though.
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Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
I fixed my 360FE "heating up only at red lights" with...
-the last thing was an ignition timing change
But I'd also installed...
-a new 4 core radiator and new cap
-12 fin "Flow Kooler" water pump (-E suffix on the part number)
-Hayden fan, fan spacer and fan clutch (not extra-heavy-duty, but close)
(with the blades "in" 1/3 of the way into the shroud like Hayden said to do)
-tried adding a "cool air" duct from the bulkhead to the air cleaner housing
(air gets hot inside the duct while sitting in traffic, so made no difference)
-always had a 195 degree Robert Shaw thermostat
Since all that, I corrected a vacuum leak that made a big difference in
everything in a good way. :)
The leak was in the can of tomatoes, it'd rusted as if it'd been cut a couple
inches like a can opener would do it. That happened here in the desert. :)
It wasn't on the down hill end at the bottom either. Not sure why it rusted.
Found it after buying a vacuum pump/vacuum system tester! :)
Nothing like tools to make the job easier huh? :)
Alvin in AZ
-the last thing was an ignition timing change
But I'd also installed...
-a new 4 core radiator and new cap
-12 fin "Flow Kooler" water pump (-E suffix on the part number)
-Hayden fan, fan spacer and fan clutch (not extra-heavy-duty, but close)
(with the blades "in" 1/3 of the way into the shroud like Hayden said to do)
-tried adding a "cool air" duct from the bulkhead to the air cleaner housing
(air gets hot inside the duct while sitting in traffic, so made no difference)
-always had a 195 degree Robert Shaw thermostat
Since all that, I corrected a vacuum leak that made a big difference in
everything in a good way. :)
The leak was in the can of tomatoes, it'd rusted as if it'd been cut a couple
inches like a can opener would do it. That happened here in the desert. :)
It wasn't on the down hill end at the bottom either. Not sure why it rusted.
Found it after buying a vacuum pump/vacuum system tester! :)
Nothing like tools to make the job easier huh? :)
Alvin in AZ
Post Fiend
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 5,338
Likes: 3
From: Grants Pass, Oregon
Not exactly a 10 minute fix,Alvin. you changed quite a lot,spent a bit of time and id imagine thinned out your wallet some along the way,but at least it sounds like you got it fixed properly once and for all! If it works for you in Arizona,it should work darn near anywhere!
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
Yeah but. :)
...the final "cup of grass ;)" only took about 10 minutes tho. :)
Went from 2*BTDC to ~10*BTDC. :)
Hadn't messed with the cooling system since.
Yeah... if "hot dry nothing" coming up off of 140F+ asphalt will cool it... ;)
As far as thinning my wallet...
IMO, that doesn't count for anything at all. :)
I didn't waste money on something like pretty valve covers. ;)
What I like to buy are top-quality-parts and the less "fancy" the better.
YMMV :)
I was tickled-pink 15 years ago when the parts-counterman showed me a
cast iron thermostat housing he had on the shelf. His attitude was it was
clunky junk. LOL :) I was tickled I was going to get rid of the one aluminum
part that was in my cooling system! :) LOL :)
"all corrosion is electrical" -Richard "Curly" Hastings my metallurgy professor
"adding stainless steel can actually make the corrosion problem worse" -Curly
Alvin in AZ
...the final "cup of grass ;)" only took about 10 minutes tho. :)
Went from 2*BTDC to ~10*BTDC. :)
Hadn't messed with the cooling system since.
you changed quite a lot,spent a bit of time and id imagine thinned out your wallet some
along the way,but at least it sounds like you got it fixed properly once and for all!
If it works for you in Arizona,it should work darn near anywhere!
along the way,but at least it sounds like you got it fixed properly once and for all!
If it works for you in Arizona,it should work darn near anywhere!
As far as thinning my wallet...
IMO, that doesn't count for anything at all. :)
I didn't waste money on something like pretty valve covers. ;)
What I like to buy are top-quality-parts and the less "fancy" the better.
YMMV :)
I was tickled-pink 15 years ago when the parts-counterman showed me a
cast iron thermostat housing he had on the shelf. His attitude was it was
clunky junk. LOL :) I was tickled I was going to get rid of the one aluminum
part that was in my cooling system! :) LOL :)
"all corrosion is electrical" -Richard "Curly" Hastings my metallurgy professor
"adding stainless steel can actually make the corrosion problem worse" -Curly
Alvin in AZ
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From: Fl
Alvin-
Are you right at 10 BTDC? You seem to have taken the same route i have- the Flow Kooler, thermostats, Fans etc... Mine is at 12 right now. Dunno if 2* would make a difference. Im probably gonna try a little lower than 10, see how that does.
Are you right at 10 BTDC? You seem to have taken the same route i have- the Flow Kooler, thermostats, Fans etc... Mine is at 12 right now. Dunno if 2* would make a difference. Im probably gonna try a little lower than 10, see how that does.
Postmaster
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 2,760
Likes: 8
From: Gadsden Purchase
Can't do anything much cheaper than resetting the ignition timing. ;)
If it does nothing or even makes it worse you learned something? :)
Ooops. :/
I just looked it up and found out I'd set it at 6*BTDC.
That just happens to be what the original engine sticker said.
Does your system build up quite a bit of pressure and keep it?
(squeeze the upper radiator hose)
Alvin in AZ
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,806
Likes: 246
From: Piney Woods of East Texas
Change the timing in 2deg steps, but I would start at 10 - 12 deg and step down. A 2deg change can make a difference. Also if your running lean you will run hotter too. A Aluminum radiator disapates heat better than a copper core one. Some users have had good luck with them.
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Posting Guru
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From: Fl
Sounds good to me. 
Can't do anything much cheaper than resetting the ignition timing.
If it does nothing or even makes it worse you learned something?
Ooops. :/
I just looked it up and found out I'd set it at 6*BTDC.
That just happens to be what the original engine sticker said.
Does your system build up quite a bit of pressure and keep it?
(squeeze the upper radiator hose)
Alvin in AZ
Can't do anything much cheaper than resetting the ignition timing.
If it does nothing or even makes it worse you learned something?
Ooops. :/
I just looked it up and found out I'd set it at 6*BTDC.
That just happens to be what the original engine sticker said.
Does your system build up quite a bit of pressure and keep it?
(squeeze the upper radiator hose)
Alvin in AZ
So, yours is at 6. Well I'm definatly gonna try it and see what happens.....