360 Major overheating problem
That was my point, Bob. :)
Showed I've seen "improvements" from both sides.
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Bear 45/70, electrons move down an oily wire better than a half corroded-away wire.
Electrons also "slip ;)" past the battery clamp gap better when it's oily than when it's dry and sulfated up to beat hell. :)
No need for the huge wires my brother-in-law claimed "needs to be changed out to, every time".
Nope, when every thing's -right- the original design works fine.
So what's "wrong" with mine and other's old FEs over heating?
I fixed mine with a 12 finned FlowKooler pump.
(already had the 195 degree Robertshaw thermostat and a new 4 row radiator)
But fiddling with the timing and mixture might have been the -real- fix.
LOL :)
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Yes my '75 F150 did/does have warm climate specs but that's not the "heading" ...like most things in the Ford Service Manuals you kinda have to dig for information, but it's there in between the obvious stuff.
"extra cooling package" is what the salesmen called it.
That came with the A/C package I ordered.
But somewhere along the line i didn't get it tho, it came with a 3 row radiator.
But it still cooled fine for a longass time! :)
So what's changed since then?
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I believe there's something going on with the ignition+carburetor+age that makes the old things need a little more help with the cooling. One might be the tired old water pumps out there. If it's got a cast iron impeller it's not pumping the water it did when it was new, is one obvious example.
My 360FE just up and started that heating crap too.
And now, it's fine.
Can set in traffic no sweat.
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I disagree with the 180 degree thermostat being a good idea too ...and the 160 is asking for trouble!
The thermostat at 195 sets the running temperature if all else is "right".
That's all it does... it doesn't do anything to actually -remove- heat.
Right? :)
Several times (and I ain't no mechanic) I've seen dip sticks with white "soapy" oil on the dip stick from guys running 160 degree thermostat and one time with a "gutted" thermostat.
YMMV :)
But that looks like trouble to me. :/
"added some Lemon Joy to the engine oil there did ya? ;)"
Alvin30/30 blackbearmountainlionana****loadofjackrabbits in AZ
Electrons also "slip
" past the battery clamp gap better when it's oily than when it's dry and sulfated up to beat hell. 
No need for the huge wires my brother-in-law claimed "needs to be changed out to, every time".
Edison Battery Company supplied bottles of oil for the purpose and still the motor oil with its acid/base buffers in it worked better. No kidding. :)
And "No-Ox-Id" grease was/is crap, BTW. BTDT and BTarguedThat before too, starting back in the mid 70's after I noticed it was failing because it was too thick. (even in AZ) Mixed it with motor oil and it did a much better job and around the same time tested it against just plain motor oil and the motor oil looked better and did not fail to protect the terminals and straps and cables.
Since that time just used the motor oil and never needed to switch to anything else.
YMMV :)
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I'm not against adding larger cables, it's just that my original cables were still working -really good- along with the original voltage regulator and starter and alternator and the pickup was sitting in my brother in law's driveway in Arkansas and was 27 years old at ~140,000 miles. ...while he was saying it wouldn't work without replacing the cables with -huge- ones after only one year.
Oops. ;)
Alvin in AZ (retired signal-ape)
ps- one reason my pickup had such low mileage was because I had a company truck in the driveway every night. :)
I would be interested in more Ford provided info on Hot Climate trucks.
John
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts

So it ain't off topic. :)
He might've meant "thread high jack"? :(
But the thread wasn't high-jacked since the cable discussion was -directly- related to the thread's topic.
Like... uh... pay attention and stuff? ;)
Alvin in AZ







