Front Axle Bearings
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 211
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From: Spokane, WA
Front Axle Bearings
Question: How difficult/what is needed to change out the axle shaft bearing (s). I have an early 99 F250 SD PSD 4x4. There is a clunking noise from the front left side of the truck. It can be heard when on a bumpy road. Smooth road , no noise. I've jacked up the truck, checked for looseness in the wheel/hub assy. seems tight to me. Oh, this truck has manual hubs. Last time the truck went in for an LOF, the tech said the hub assys where good.
I looked thru the Ford manual, Section 205-03 Front drive axle and diff.
In the parts breakdown there wasn't a picture of the axle shafts. Just the diff assy. Would appreciate some help and input here. Thanks in advance.
I looked thru the Ford manual, Section 205-03 Front drive axle and diff.
In the parts breakdown there wasn't a picture of the axle shafts. Just the diff assy. Would appreciate some help and input here. Thanks in advance.
Elder User
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 699
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From: George West, Texas....
No special tools needed...I've changed mine and I'm no mechanic.
The seal I had pushed on using a pipe and flange, theres a post somewhere telling about this...Good luck and if I can do it anyone can..
The seal I had pushed on using a pipe and flange, theres a post somewhere telling about this...Good luck and if I can do it anyone can..
Posting Guru
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,345
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From: NorCal
Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Check the sway bar bushings. When they wear out you start to hear metal to metal clunks.
Tuned
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 431
Likes: 66
I had the driver's side go out and simply replaced both sides at the same time.
Nothing really spectacular, just some grunt work and certainly a feeling of accomplishment when completed and knowing you saved yourself a bundle of $$$.
Hey, a little hint on keeping these hubs lasting a little longer. When the hubs are new, notice how much resistance there is to the rotation. Then about once a year or when you do a break job, simply go a step further and remove the ABS sensor and pump a few shots of high temp., water resistant bearing grease into the hub while rotating it several times until you feel the same resistance to rotation as the new beary assembly. Now you're done until the next break job.
I have been doing this since my first failed around 70K. I now have over 255K on the second set of hubs.
Good luck,
Nothing really spectacular, just some grunt work and certainly a feeling of accomplishment when completed and knowing you saved yourself a bundle of $$$.
Hey, a little hint on keeping these hubs lasting a little longer. When the hubs are new, notice how much resistance there is to the rotation. Then about once a year or when you do a break job, simply go a step further and remove the ABS sensor and pump a few shots of high temp., water resistant bearing grease into the hub while rotating it several times until you feel the same resistance to rotation as the new beary assembly. Now you're done until the next break job.
I have been doing this since my first failed around 70K. I now have over 255K on the second set of hubs.
Good luck,
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 211
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From: Spokane, WA
Thanks for all your replies. I'll be checking out your suggestions as soon as the weather clears up a bit. Thanks!
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Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 629
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From: South-Central Kentucky
might want to check out the ball joints out as well. i just had to put a set in my dad's truck. there was a clunking noise coming from the passenger side when you hit the brakes.
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Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 211
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From: Spokane, WA
Here's the update and conclusion:
I took the truck out and while driving slow I turned the steering wheel to the right and left. There's the clunk noise. I returned home and went underneath to inspect and sure enough, the steering links, the bushings are being pulled/squeezed out from the link. Drove to Ford, picked up the parts and installed, Clunking noise gone. I also noticed that the spring insulators are missing as well. That will have to wait until spring. Better weather.
Here are the part #'s should you need to replace.
F81Z-5K483-BA $29.99 each Link
1C3Z-5B302-AA $40.23 Insulator Kit
Also spoke with a diesel tech while there and he says that the "o" ring for the oil pan dipstick tube can be replaced in about an hour....This is great news since all I ever have heard or found is that the engine needs to be removed.
Thanks again for all your inputs
Jeff
I took the truck out and while driving slow I turned the steering wheel to the right and left. There's the clunk noise. I returned home and went underneath to inspect and sure enough, the steering links, the bushings are being pulled/squeezed out from the link. Drove to Ford, picked up the parts and installed, Clunking noise gone. I also noticed that the spring insulators are missing as well. That will have to wait until spring. Better weather.
Here are the part #'s should you need to replace.
F81Z-5K483-BA $29.99 each Link
1C3Z-5B302-AA $40.23 Insulator Kit
Also spoke with a diesel tech while there and he says that the "o" ring for the oil pan dipstick tube can be replaced in about an hour....This is great news since all I ever have heard or found is that the engine needs to be removed.
Thanks again for all your inputs
Jeff
FTE Remembers
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 9,549
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From: Payson, AZ
Originally Posted by pctjk
Also spoke with a diesel tech while there and he says that the "o" ring for the oil pan dipstick tube can be replaced in about an hour....This is great news since all I ever have heard or found is that the engine needs to be
removed.
Thanks again for all your inputs
Jeff
removed.
Thanks again for all your inputs
Jeff
Tuned
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 366
Likes: 6
From: Webster, Texas
Pumping thru the ABS
Originally Posted by AubieTN
I had the driver's side go out and simply replaced both sides at the same time.
Nothing really spectacular, just some grunt work and certainly a feeling of accomplishment when completed and knowing you saved yourself a bundle of $$$.
Hey, a little hint on keeping these hubs lasting a little longer. When the hubs are new, notice how much resistance there is to the rotation. Then about once a year or when you do a break job, simply go a step further and remove the ABS sensor and pump a few shots of high temp., water resistant bearing grease into the hub while rotating it several times until you feel the same resistance to rotation as the new beary assembly. Now you're done until the next break job.
I have been doing this since my first failed around 70K. I now have over 255K on the second set of hubs.
Good luck,
Nothing really spectacular, just some grunt work and certainly a feeling of accomplishment when completed and knowing you saved yourself a bundle of $$$.
Hey, a little hint on keeping these hubs lasting a little longer. When the hubs are new, notice how much resistance there is to the rotation. Then about once a year or when you do a break job, simply go a step further and remove the ABS sensor and pump a few shots of high temp., water resistant bearing grease into the hub while rotating it several times until you feel the same resistance to rotation as the new beary assembly. Now you're done until the next break job.
I have been doing this since my first failed around 70K. I now have over 255K on the second set of hubs.
Good luck,
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 211
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From: Spokane, WA
Is there a "Guzzle" type walk thru on this procedure and don't you need a special connector as discussed by Texas Outlaw. One note on the front end noise; I had the same knocking deal until I had the Bilstein 5100 shocks installed and now its gone.
Did you ever figure out why the noise was gone after replacing with Blisteins?
I installed new monroes front and rear and still had the noise. Has anyone changed out the front spring insulators? Can it be done without removing the spring?
Jeff
Did you ever figure out why the noise was gone after replacing with Blisteins?
I installed new monroes front and rear and still had the noise. Has anyone changed out the front spring insulators? Can it be done without removing the spring?
Jeff
Elder User
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 718
Likes: 2
From: Chattanooga, TN
PSDLOVER,
I'm not aware of a "Guzzle" procedure for greasing the hub bearings thru the ABS sensor hole - may be, though. This is something I came up with after replacing my front hubs and then pulling the bad unit apart to find what was inside and how it all worked together. I just used a rubber adapter to fit my grease gun and also fit inside the ABS hole. My noise was more of a "grinding" noise and when the suspect wheel was jacked up and rotated, it became very evident of the problem. If it is a "clunking" noise, then the issue may be with another part of the front end.
I'm not aware of a "Guzzle" procedure for greasing the hub bearings thru the ABS sensor hole - may be, though. This is something I came up with after replacing my front hubs and then pulling the bad unit apart to find what was inside and how it all worked together. I just used a rubber adapter to fit my grease gun and also fit inside the ABS hole. My noise was more of a "grinding" noise and when the suspect wheel was jacked up and rotated, it became very evident of the problem. If it is a "clunking" noise, then the issue may be with another part of the front end.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 9,714
Likes: 2
From: White Mnt's,New Hampshire
Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
Somebody I can't remember who, made some fittings to go in to the ABS hole to grease the bearings. I will look and see if I can find something after I get back from church.
