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A friend of mine at another dealer hAd a 6.4 with a knocking noise at low miles. He pulled the glow plugs to do compression test (relative showed 1,3,5,7 all low) and found the plug was broken, i never heard what went wrong, but some how there was catastrophic failure all of the sudden.
anyways, today didn't go so well. I pulled one of the plugs out only to find my parts guy got me power stroke glow plugs (I think). evidently I've never seen idi plugs, because the plugs i pulled out were like 2 inches long, and the parts guy gave me plugs that look like they are from any of our power strokes...
Also is it true that 6.0l's in Actual international trucks had way less problems then the ones ford used? Just curious, i've heard i rumored before...
Our sounds goes and comes, sometimes louder, sometimes quiet or not there. It's a weird one.
Tell him you want some ZD-9's (motorcraft), those are the right glowplugs for your pickup.
To tell you the truth I really don't know how they've worked out in the big trucks. I've never even seen a 365 let alone worked on one, but we don't do much med/large truck work, we get some fire trucks and motorhomes. Thr biggest engine in one of the fire trucks was a DT466, other then that I do most of my international work on the farm, but all on tractors.
Yeah A good parts guy is hard to find. We got one that gets all pissy when you call something by a differnt name than the computer says its called I asked for an abs tome ring and he got confused then when I described it he said its called a sensor ring. next time i need one I'm asking for a reluctor wheel.
Thats hella funny. I also enjoy throwing out weird names for things, I mean, technically correct names, just not so conventional. I needed a good laugh like that.
So I got the plugs in today. Cycled the key, I think I heard the solenoid click, but the WTS light did not illuminate even a flicker. Before it would flash long enough to see it, but not quite a whole second. Tried cranking, no fire, checked, and the plugs didn't feel warm like before. (it was about 60*F outside) unfortunately I didn't have any diagnostic equipment with me. but I feel like the GPCM is on the fritz. I cycled the key a few more times, and the light made a fart of illumination once. But even still, the plugs did not feel warm.
I'm thinking a bad GPCM wore out the plugs, or could the worn plugs cause the GPCM to go? I will not be able to work on it until wednesday now, so Any further advice I can get between now and then will be great!
So the light stayed on a good amount b4, now that you put new plugs in, nothing.... that's weird, I'd guess GPCM to, unless you were in a hurry and forgot to hook up about 4 of them, did you unplug anything else for any reason while putting these in?
no, did not unhook anything, and i triple checked the plugs.
but before the WTS light wasn't on for a good amount of time. I would say it flashed for about a half a second, but it was much colder then... 40's*F I wonder if the temp sensor this is messed up, and it's just way off, thinking the module is already warmed up. either way it would need a GPCM
I've been watching the glow plug circuit activate by watching an analog voltmeter needle hooked to cig lighter, mine are staying on for 25 seconds first try, the red WTS light doen't seem to work at all.
Well it sounds like you and your parts guy aren't the best of friends, but see if he'll lat you try a GPCM just to eliminate it w/out going through the tests, although they aren't that hard, but a lotta times it takes 2 ppl, especially when it's only flashing for 1/2 a sec. unless you set your volt meter to record the highest read voltage, but it's still hard to be sure.
well, when I did go through the pinpoint test for the GPCM, everything passed fine, the plugs felt warm, and the truck fired up normally. so I this is why I think there could be an intermittent problem in the GPCM.
I'm certain my parts guy would have let me check a new one, but we did not have one, and we are small with no parts drivers to visit nearby stores, so he had to order one from Detroit.
"when the wait to start light goes out , do you hear a clicking sound ?
maybe the light is goin out before they are done..... "
The light isn't even coming on, I think i hear a click from the Glow plug solenoid, but i think it is just clicking on and off again really fast.
When the new module comes in i'll try it, and see what happens...
If there is a fuel leak in my 7.3l E350, should I address THAT first before I drop the $1000 to have the injector pump replaced? From what I have read here (lots of great info, thanks), it seems that air intrusion could just as easily be the cause of 1)power loss, 2)smoke on acceleration (white smoke mostly -- compression checks out okay and oil is not burning.. much)
Even reading what I just wrote I can hear a reply: "I wouldn't trust a mechanic that wanted to change the injector pump without first resolving the fuel leak!"
It's an '89 with a ton-o-miles but runs really well except for this persistent powerloss/smoke issue.
Thanks gents.
Dave
Last edited by Dave Sponaugle; Mar 2, 2008 at 01:51 PM.
HeadSpaceCarving I would adress the fule leak first. Also are you running any fule additive? If you aren't your IP advance could get stuck wich cann cause white smoke on acceleration a heavy dose of diesel clean may be all you need.
I perfer diesel kleen its formulated for the ultra low sulfer and realy helps the junk they call fule in Neveda. I'd fix the leak first then if its still there run a heavy dose of diesel clean just poor the whole smaller botle in. Mine was doing about the same thing you were describing about a moth after I bought it ran some diesel clean threw it and it cleared up.