New Excursion Driving Impressions
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
New Excursion Driving Impressions
I have completed my 1st 100 miles on my new/used 2003 Excursion Eddie Bauer 4x4 V10. The X is in exceptional shape with 49000 miles. So far so good, the vehicle is mechanically sound and all accessories work perfectly.
Here are some observations I have made so far.
Please let me know if these are normal or not. Keep in mind I previously drove a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 4x4 6.0L so I do have experience driving heavy vehicles.
The steering feels a little on the lazy side. While driving down the freeway it feels as my inputs from the steering wheel are not immediate and I find myself over correcting because I turned to far in one direction or the other. Its hard to explain, there is no slop in the wheel it just feels as if I turn (nothing happens) turn a little more (nothing happens) then turn some more and ive turned to much then I need to correct, keep in mind when I say turn it is small inputs as I am describing freeway driving.
Brakes feel a little on the mushy side and it feels like I have to apply a lot of pressure to stop.
Upon stop then start (stop and go driving) I feel and hear a small clucking upon acceleration. It feels like the clunking is coming from the breaks not the transmission or differentials. Its almost like I can feel the brake pads releasing from the rotor.
There are a few squeekes and rattles but nothing too bad.
Any input anyone has would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Chad
Here are some observations I have made so far.
Please let me know if these are normal or not. Keep in mind I previously drove a 2002 Chevrolet Suburban 2500 4x4 6.0L so I do have experience driving heavy vehicles.
The steering feels a little on the lazy side. While driving down the freeway it feels as my inputs from the steering wheel are not immediate and I find myself over correcting because I turned to far in one direction or the other. Its hard to explain, there is no slop in the wheel it just feels as if I turn (nothing happens) turn a little more (nothing happens) then turn some more and ive turned to much then I need to correct, keep in mind when I say turn it is small inputs as I am describing freeway driving.
Brakes feel a little on the mushy side and it feels like I have to apply a lot of pressure to stop.
Upon stop then start (stop and go driving) I feel and hear a small clucking upon acceleration. It feels like the clunking is coming from the breaks not the transmission or differentials. Its almost like I can feel the brake pads releasing from the rotor.
There are a few squeekes and rattles but nothing too bad.
Any input anyone has would be appreciated.
Thank you,
Chad
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 9
From: Ohio
The steering wheel problem that u have is a loose steering box. This is easily fixed buy tightening a screw on the steering box. Ive never done it before but hopefully more can chime in on where the screws location is.
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
I would look at the brake pads and lining on all 4 wheels if they are the original it problaly needs to be changed, you might want to get new break fluid flushed through the lines seeing that your fluid is 49000 miles and 4 years old. as for the steering there was some threads on this they called it steering wonder i notice it was mostly 4x4's. I cant help i have 2x4 and never experience it. With the steering how do the tires look new or almost ready to be replaced.
good luck with your new ride. it sure sounds nice.
2000 Excursion 2x4 v10 LTD
2000 Expedition 4x4 EB
good luck with your new ride. it sure sounds nice.
2000 Excursion 2x4 v10 LTD
2000 Expedition 4x4 EB
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by tykateexcursion
I would look at the brake pads and lining on all 4 wheels if they are the original it problaly needs to be changed, you might want to get new break fluid flushed through the lines seeing that your fluid is 49000 miles and 4 years old. as for the steering there was some threads on this they called it steering wonder i notice it was mostly 4x4's. I cant help i have 2x4 and never experience it. With the steering how do the tires look new or almost ready to be replaced.
good luck with your new ride. it sure sounds nice.
2000 Excursion 2x4 v10 LTD
2000 Expedition 4x4 EB
good luck with your new ride. it sure sounds nice.
2000 Excursion 2x4 v10 LTD
2000 Expedition 4x4 EB
The tires are almost new they only have 10000 miles on them.
Thank you for the help,
Chad
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 9
From: Ohio
Originally Posted by ChazWiz
Yeah, I think I will take it in to have the brakes looked at. I think I recall the seller told me he installed ceramic break pads because he didnt like dealing with brake dust.
The tires are almost new they only have 10000 miles on them.
Thank you for the help,
Chad
The tires are almost new they only have 10000 miles on them.
Thank you for the help,
Chad
Senior User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 268
Likes: 0
ceramic is good for cars and racing due to quick excessive heat and the lighter vehicles. for trucks semi metalic is what i am running and have had good luck and better feel with both truck with a trailer attached yes it cause break dust but if you take care of your vehilcle you will wash it away. Check the threads hear and see what other are running for tires some have valid points of the brand and types that give good service and other that are not as good
Super Moderator
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 29,380
Likes: 118
From: Central Coast of CA
Originally Posted by i eat hybrids
The steering wheel problem that u have is a loose steering box. This is easily fixed buy tightening a screw on the steering box. Ive never done it before but hopefully more can chime in on where the screws location is.
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between three-quarters of one full rotation, and one and one half full rotation before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
You might want to also do a search using the criteria "wander" in the Excursion forum. It will give you tons of reading that may help you regarding the steering wander problem that plagues these wonderful beasties.
If you see "RAS" or "V and B Code Springs" listed in some of our signatures (like mine) those upgrades are done to eliminate the inherent steering wander problem experienced by Excursion owners.
Stewart
Last edited by Stewart_H; Feb 10, 2008 at 11:05 AM.
Trending Topics
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Stewart as always has excellent advice and directions!
I'd suggest a couple of checks though before jumping to the steering box...because as he points out if you OVER tighten it...you could DAMAGE it...
Tires are a good place to start your search. What tire pressures are you running? I've found that tire pressure is a very large contributor to the handling characteristics of our beasts...and also one of the easiest to vary...but also one of the easiest to OVERLOOK!!!
Many like to run high pressures which I found to contribute to HORRIBLE handling characteristics with the OEM BFG Radial Trail T/A 265/75R 16E. Do you know if yours has D or E range tires?...that makes a difference too in side wall flex and thus steerability (word?...LOL)
Next I would see if you have a REAR sway bar...many Ex's do NOT come with that IMO NEEDED piece of hardware...body roll can induce over correction...these vehicles are much less 'refined' than your old Burb...it is a fact...sorry guys...we have TRUCKS...so the center of gravity is very high and the rear springs are softer and there is a large spacer block...those small corrections in steering combined with that rear end could be causing ROLL and you have to then re-correct your input...
Poke your head under your Ex and if no rear sway bar...get a Hellwig from JCWhitney for under $200 delivered to your door...less than 1 hr install time and you'll have a much better behaved Ex...
Shocks...well shocks are a key contributor to handling...if yours are OEM's with 49K on them...they are SHOT...you could be fighting a wander issue due to the front wheels hopping due to worn shocks...if those are OEM's...I'd suggest getting a set of Bilsteins from http://www.shockwarehouse.com/ and upon checkout enter 'fordtrucks' for a 5% discount...4 shocks delivered to your door will cost you ~$250.
Notice I am steering (no pun sorry) you AWAY from doing the steering box adjustment right away...while I know the steering box is a culprit...I think it gets tagged too quickly because it IS an EASY target...there are unfortunately other targets that should be at least evaluated first...and tire AIR pressure is a VERY easy one!
Finally Stewart pointed out the RAS and V/B code springs...our Ex's 'suffer' from having soft springs with a LARGE spacer block...all that weight of the Ex expecially under braking can warp those soft springs on one side...causing a rear axle mis-alignment...stiffer springs thru the V/B code (like Stewart did) or the RAS (like I did) reduces or eliminates that phenom. There is another option that many have good success with on here and that is called Landyot Radius Rods. I believe those do as they are designed to do. My only caution with those is that if you tow HEAVY with your truck...you will need to supplement your rear springs some how.
My option involves TWO items either the RAS and Hellwig OR the V/B and Hellwig. Both of these TWO options SOLVE the issue...I know IT SOLVED MINE.
Going the radius rod route...you would need THREE items. Radius rods, Hellwig AND Air Bags (Or RAS OR V/B)...but you get the point...the radius rods address ONE aspect of the rear axle short coming and that is axle wrapping...they do NOTHING for rear spring capacity.
It is my opinion that the V/B code springs or RAS address TWO aspects (spring capacity AND axle wrapping).
If you NEVER plan to tow with your Ex...you may want to look at the radius rods...but for less $$$ you could add a RAS and accomplish a few things.
Sorry to type so much...my fingers just keep going some times...
Hope my info helps...if after you evaluate all the other areas I suggested...if THEN you still have this steering phenom...well....then the steering box should be looked into. I didn't mention tie rods because you said there wasn't a bunch of play...but the ONLY grease fittings you will find are on the tie rod ends...you may want to look at them too and hit them with some grease...
Good luck,
joe.
I'd suggest a couple of checks though before jumping to the steering box...because as he points out if you OVER tighten it...you could DAMAGE it...
Tires are a good place to start your search. What tire pressures are you running? I've found that tire pressure is a very large contributor to the handling characteristics of our beasts...and also one of the easiest to vary...but also one of the easiest to OVERLOOK!!!
Many like to run high pressures which I found to contribute to HORRIBLE handling characteristics with the OEM BFG Radial Trail T/A 265/75R 16E. Do you know if yours has D or E range tires?...that makes a difference too in side wall flex and thus steerability (word?...LOL)
Next I would see if you have a REAR sway bar...many Ex's do NOT come with that IMO NEEDED piece of hardware...body roll can induce over correction...these vehicles are much less 'refined' than your old Burb...it is a fact...sorry guys...we have TRUCKS...so the center of gravity is very high and the rear springs are softer and there is a large spacer block...those small corrections in steering combined with that rear end could be causing ROLL and you have to then re-correct your input...
Poke your head under your Ex and if no rear sway bar...get a Hellwig from JCWhitney for under $200 delivered to your door...less than 1 hr install time and you'll have a much better behaved Ex...
Shocks...well shocks are a key contributor to handling...if yours are OEM's with 49K on them...they are SHOT...you could be fighting a wander issue due to the front wheels hopping due to worn shocks...if those are OEM's...I'd suggest getting a set of Bilsteins from http://www.shockwarehouse.com/ and upon checkout enter 'fordtrucks' for a 5% discount...4 shocks delivered to your door will cost you ~$250.
Notice I am steering (no pun sorry) you AWAY from doing the steering box adjustment right away...while I know the steering box is a culprit...I think it gets tagged too quickly because it IS an EASY target...there are unfortunately other targets that should be at least evaluated first...and tire AIR pressure is a VERY easy one!
Finally Stewart pointed out the RAS and V/B code springs...our Ex's 'suffer' from having soft springs with a LARGE spacer block...all that weight of the Ex expecially under braking can warp those soft springs on one side...causing a rear axle mis-alignment...stiffer springs thru the V/B code (like Stewart did) or the RAS (like I did) reduces or eliminates that phenom. There is another option that many have good success with on here and that is called Landyot Radius Rods. I believe those do as they are designed to do. My only caution with those is that if you tow HEAVY with your truck...you will need to supplement your rear springs some how.
My option involves TWO items either the RAS and Hellwig OR the V/B and Hellwig. Both of these TWO options SOLVE the issue...I know IT SOLVED MINE.
Going the radius rod route...you would need THREE items. Radius rods, Hellwig AND Air Bags (Or RAS OR V/B)...but you get the point...the radius rods address ONE aspect of the rear axle short coming and that is axle wrapping...they do NOTHING for rear spring capacity.
It is my opinion that the V/B code springs or RAS address TWO aspects (spring capacity AND axle wrapping).
If you NEVER plan to tow with your Ex...you may want to look at the radius rods...but for less $$$ you could add a RAS and accomplish a few things.
Sorry to type so much...my fingers just keep going some times...
Hope my info helps...if after you evaluate all the other areas I suggested...if THEN you still have this steering phenom...well....then the steering box should be looked into. I didn't mention tie rods because you said there wasn't a bunch of play...but the ONLY grease fittings you will find are on the tie rod ends...you may want to look at them too and hit them with some grease...
Good luck,
joe.
FTE Stories
Ford Trucks for Ford Truck Enthusiasts
AEV FXL Super Duty - the Super Duty Raptor Ford Doesn't Make
Brett Foote
Lobo Vs Lobo: Proof the F-150 Lobo Should Be Even Lower!
Michael S. Palmer
Ford's 2001 Explorer Sportsman Concept Looks For a New Home
Verdad Gallardo
10 Best Ford Truck Engines We Miss the Most!
Joe Kucinski
2026 Shelby F-150 Off-Road: Better Than a Raptor R?
Brett Foote
2027 Super Duty Carhartt Package First Look: 12 Things You NEED to Know!
Michael S. Palmer
10 Most Surprising 2026 Ford Truck Features!
Joe Kucinski
Top 10 Ford Trucks Coming to Mecum Indy 2026
Brett Foote
5 Best / 5 Worst Ford Truck Wheels of All Time
Joe Kucinski
Thread Starter
|
Freshman User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Locate the allen head bolt and locknut on top of the steering box (close to the radiator). The locknut should be 5/8".
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between three-quarters of one full rotation, and one and one half full rotation before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
You might want to also do a search using the criteria "wander" in the Excursion forum. It will give you tons of reading that may help you regarding the steering wander problem that plagues these wonderful beasties.
If you see "RAS" or "V and B Code Springs" listed in some of our signatures (like mine) those upgrades are done to eliminate the inherent steering wander problem experienced by Excursion owners.
Stewart
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between three-quarters of one full rotation, and one and one half full rotation before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
You might want to also do a search using the criteria "wander" in the Excursion forum. It will give you tons of reading that may help you regarding the steering wander problem that plagues these wonderful beasties.
If you see "RAS" or "V and B Code Springs" listed in some of our signatures (like mine) those upgrades are done to eliminate the inherent steering wander problem experienced by Excursion owners.
Stewart
Out of the "RAS", "V and B Code Springs" and sway bars what helps most to prevent this wandering feeling or is it an all or nothing sort of deal? Looks like the front and rear sway bar setup would run about 400.00 according to this site (http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...tion/to=r.html). After reading several forum posts looks like the V and B code Springs are Ford F250 OEM parts, I guess I can contact them for the price. However I think Im going to take it in for dealer service (I still am under an extended waranty) and complain about the steering wander issue and state that it is very dangerous and is a posible liability for them and see if they are willing to do anything.
Again thanks for the help,
Chad
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 5,955
Likes: 9
From: Ohio
Originally Posted by Stewart_H
Locate the allen head bolt and locknut on top of the steering box (close to the radiator). The locknut should be 5/8".
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between three-quarters of one full rotation, and one and one half full rotation before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
You might want to also do a search using the criteria "wander" in the Excursion forum. It will give you tons of reading that may help you regarding the steering wander problem that plagues these wonderful beasties.
If you see "RAS" or "V and B Code Springs" listed in some of our signatures (like mine) those upgrades are done to eliminate the inherent steering wander problem experienced by Excursion owners.
Stewart
Mark the allen bolt so you can tell the orientation that you started from and then loosen the locknut.
Turn the allen bolt clockwise a quarter turn to tighten the gear mesh. Tighten the locknut back up and take her for a spin.
In reading posts by others who have done this, the allen bolt seems to get turned somewhere between three-quarters of one full rotation, and one and one half full rotation before people are happy with the results.
Be careful, because if you over tighten the steering may be so tight as to get extremely stiff on a tight turn, causing you to veer off course.
Repeat the tighten and test drive until you're satisfied with the performance.
If you over tighten, turn back the allen bolt a quarter turn counter clockwise.
There is a risk of over tightening the box and causing it to wear out prematurely, so I tightened it to the point where the slop was gone, and no further.
You might want to also do a search using the criteria "wander" in the Excursion forum. It will give you tons of reading that may help you regarding the steering wander problem that plagues these wonderful beasties.
If you see "RAS" or "V and B Code Springs" listed in some of our signatures (like mine) those upgrades are done to eliminate the inherent steering wander problem experienced by Excursion owners.
Stewart
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Originally Posted by i eat hybrids
Does anybody have a pic ofthis bolt?
For perspective...the FRONT of the Ex is to the LEFT in all these photos
There are four pink marked bolts...the one to adjust the steering box is IN THE CENTER of those where the X ribs meet...
That is the TOP of the steering box...you can see how TIGHT it is on the V10 to get your hand down in there!
You will see the lower jam nut and the center bolt with the allen head
Hotshot
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 12,237
Likes: 22
From: Florida
Read Stewarts instructions! LOL
You MARK the allen bolt FIRST before doing ANYTHING...you have to loosen the jam nut before you can move the allen bolt...then when you get the allen bolt where you want it you tighten the jam nut (the nut on the bolt you circled)...remember when you tighten that jam nut...the allen bolt will move...it is HARD to keep your allen wrench down there AND tighten the nut...VERY TIGHT AREA!!!
joe.
You MARK the allen bolt FIRST before doing ANYTHING...you have to loosen the jam nut before you can move the allen bolt...then when you get the allen bolt where you want it you tighten the jam nut (the nut on the bolt you circled)...remember when you tighten that jam nut...the allen bolt will move...it is HARD to keep your allen wrench down there AND tighten the nut...VERY TIGHT AREA!!!
joe.