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Trying to pick some brains here. I've been noticing very little black smoke for the past 3-4 months and trying to figure out why. Still has good power and runs smooth. I do use B20 but have been for about 1 1/2 yrs. Even in the highest setting on the chip, there is very little smoke. Changed fuel and air filters with no change. BTW, there is very little noticeable difference in power from 75 hp setting all the way up to the 140 setting.
My main question is what are some other places I need to check for clogging in the fuel line. Do not have a fuel pressure gauge yet so I'm unsure what pressure I'm at. Everything else seems to be fine. Do have a little white/blue smoke on cold starts but starts easy and GP system checks out fine.
What else do I need to check for junk from using the bio? Any good write ups on cleaning the fuel lines? Any help is appreciated. Trying to clean things up while waiting on funds for reg. return system.
I'm glad i found you... i notice very little power difference with the same chip (the 120 and 140 seem to just be a waste of fuel) as for the smoke, the new filter will reduce the smoke since the engine is breathing better creating more combustion (all the black smoke is is unburnt fuel) unsure about the fuel question but i know mine puffs smoke from a low boost push on the skinny peddle i'll be interested to hear what others chime in on
Put your fuel pump at the end of the fuel pickup. It will make all the difference in the world. It's a LOT easier to push a fluid than to pull it toward the pump that is mounted in the frame underneath the driver's seat.
Check in my gallery "fuel pump in the tank" for some pictures to give you ideas on how to get it done.
I just finished making some video recordings of an acceloration run on stock tune. Don't have time to upload it right now but will return tonight and do so.
I think it does pretty good for a 10k lb truck and stock tune..
Thanks for thi idea Kwik. I'll be loking into this soon. Trying to figure out what all might need cleaning since using the Bio. I have noticed the fuel drain doesn't open and drain easily. Once had to run a rire through it and last time had to leave the pump turned on and thenopen the drain. Figure there are other little screens which need cleaning also.
As for the air filter, truck wasn't blowing a lot of smoke even with a dirty filter. It does run better with the new filter but not that big of a difference.
Do the fuel pumps weaken with time or just die all at once?
The trick is to burn all the fuel that black smoke is unburnt fuel USLD mixed with Bio won't smoke as much, pure bio is even better. Watch Auddi racing car it is a diesel don't smoke hardly at all. That means they are burning all the fuel they are putting in. Your looking to get the air and fuel mix right, less smoke. Remember that black smoke is wasted fuel and power!
Trying to pick some brains here. I've been noticing very little black smoke for the past 3-4 months and trying to figure out why. Still has good power and runs smooth. I do use B20 but have been for about 1 1/2 yrs. Even in the highest setting on the chip, there is very little smoke. Changed fuel and air filters with no change. BTW, there is very little noticeable difference in power from 75 hp setting all the way up to the 140 setting.
My main question is what are some other places I need to check for clogging in the fuel line. Do not have a fuel pressure gauge yet so I'm unsure what pressure I'm at. Everything else seems to be fine. Do have a little white/blue smoke on cold starts but starts easy and GP system checks out fine.
What else do I need to check for junk from using the bio? Any good write ups on cleaning the fuel lines? Any help is appreciated. Trying to clean things up while waiting on funds for reg. return system.
Kwikk, what is on your dash, radio or something? Truck sound nice, when spring comes I'm going to do the intank pump. Meanwhile I will be collecting the parts.
Seems as everything is pointing to the EBPS. Retrieved a code w/ AE last time it was hooked up related to the sensor. Also performance is a little less than normal and mileage is down a lot. Guess I've got something to do this weekend.
Yes, the same directions and part numbers(if any) apply.
IF you get under there and find that your EBPS tube has a hole in it or is broken, you can make one from steel brakeline avail at all auto part stores, a cheap tube bender, and a double flare tool. $4 for brake line, $7 for tube bender, $9 for flare tool. just remove the ferrules and the nuts from your old line and put them on the new line and bend away.
Yes, the same directions and part numbers(if any) apply.
IF you get under there and find that your EBPS tube has a hole in it or is broken, you can make one from steel brakeline avail at all auto part stores, a cheap tube bender, and a double flare tool. $4 for brake line, $7 for tube bender, $9 for flare tool. just remove the ferrules and the nuts from your old line and put them on the new line and bend away.
Or you can buy one for $40 from dealer
Thanx y'all, now I'm going to print it, and then look at the tube tomorrow. Kind of surprised it took so long to get an answer on this super forum.
Your pretty Quik on the stick too Dan, most guys arent near that fast with a standard I used to drive an 03 Cummings 6speed for work and it took me forever to shift it that fast, with the long throw and all, i used to start out in 2nd anyway when jumpin on it
Are you able to moniter fuel pressure at that high of RPMs? Is that pump holding better at high RPMs?
The longer i mess with my truck and read about the more im convinced most of any quirks with the 7.3 is fuel pressure.