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well first you need to tell us about your truck...year, make, model...kinda like my sig...that makes a huge difference...also look under the truck is there a diff cover or does it look like the whole carrier comes off the front of the axle housing??? Also how many lugs it has make a difference too...
yeah read either the door sticker axle code or read the metal tag on the axle...this will give you an axle code...use the code to look it up. if its a number most likely it will be an open...if its a letter and number the it will mostly likely have LS...but thats my experience in the 80-96 body style...not so sure about the older ones...my axle code is 16 on my 79 and I cant find anywhere to decode that...ima click the link above and see...
but short of pulling the covers can i tell if they are lmtd slip posi or what is inside?
Ratios can be changed over the years, and since your ride has no tags on the axle, chances are that they have. Door stickers can be veru unreliable in a 30 year old truck.
Wont ever be a posi (GM term) and a weak LS unit may act like an open diff. You can take a stab at rotating the tire, and counting the rotations of the pinion, but this has proven to be pretty difficult, and not very reliable.
Best bet is to remove the inspection cover, that is what they are there for, and fresh fluid never hurt an axle. Heak you might find some interesting stuff in there, and may find that the fluid had to go anyway. You do not need gaskets, I have not used one on a diff cover for years.
so do you just use rtv or something else to seal the cover to the housing?
This is correct sir. I remove, and clean all of the old gasket material and stuff off of the cover first, while gravity is helping the draining process. I apply a uniform bead of silicone around the cover then I go do my work. While I clean, and prepare the sealing surface on the diff, it allows the cover to dry some. I usually let it sit for about 20 mins to 30 mins, and this provides a good bond that will be free of leaks. Install when it is too wet, and the RTV will squeeze out, and you could have a leak.
As a hint, your gears should have the number of teeth stamped right on the side of the ring gear. You may have to turn the ring gear a bit to clean and find the stamped numbers, while you are inspecting the teeth at the same time.
Good reason to inspect the side gears and everything else too.
yes sir i was planning on inspecting the teeth on all the gears and the way they mesh.my 79 F150 4x4 super cab, tranmission and 205 transfercase and some body parts donor should be delivered tomorrow,gotta get it stripped and to the shreder so i can get started on this one asap.