I have an 04 excursion V10 40000 miles. Will Royal Purple oil add life to the motor? Or is it a waste of money? I put about 9000 miles on my truck per year, lots of short trips. Im just curious if that oil will help. Ty

 

I think in some applications it can be a benefit. But I don't really think you'll see much of a difference using it in your application.

You can change your oil twice a year using Motorcraft oil for less than the one change of Royal Purple. My vote is to save your dough.

I used RP for two oil changes (10K miles) and didn't detect or record any difference in performance or MPG.

I use it in my axle(s) though.

 

U have been using it for 25k. I didnt notice anything in mpg wise. But one thing that i noticed was less oil usage. U use to use mobil 1 5w20 syn and i used about 1.5 quarts every 3k now with the rp 5w20 syn i am usin half a quart every 3k

 

Again, I agree with Monsta. Save your money.

Royal Purple is a good oil, but is it that good? I say no.

 

I use Valvoline for no reason other than the oil change place I like to take my truck to uses it. I've had good luck with Valvoline oil, though, which I don't attribute in the least to being Valvoline, rather to just taking good care of the engine in general and using proper oil change intervals.

I've yet to be convinced on the merits of spending tons of money on oil changes. I've seen just as many cars last hundreds of thousands of miles on conventional cheap oil than on expensive synthetic. I'm sure it's a better oil, but I guess my point is so many other factors can destroy your engine, that the potential benefit isn't worth the added cost.

 

I disagree. I have used royal purple since I bought my pick-up (about 24,000 miles ago) and I really enjoy it. I believe it to be a better oil then all the other crap out there. If that means I have to spend $50 bucks per oil change, count me in. It's propably just in my head but whatever, it makes me feel good.

 

It's your money, huh, armynavyguy?

With my engine as tight as it is with over 134K on it, I'm a firm believer in any dino oil that's API certified. Of course I change it at 3K whether it needs it or not.

 

Use oil analysis to make sure your engine oil is doing its job an detect hidden engine problems before major damage occurs. Without oil analysis nobody knows how there oil really does.

 

Oils today (dino, semi-syn or 100% syn) are far superior than what was available just a few short years ago. If you follow the vehicle manufacturers recommended guidelines for maintenance, you will be OK in the long run.

It is a fact, that the semi-syn oils are slightly better than pure dino oil. The problem is how much synthetic oil is actually in that mix. It only has to be greater than 7% or so to meet rules that allow it to be called a semi-syn oil. How much are you paying for that small, added amount of sythetic oil?

And yes, it's a fact that 100% pure synthetic oil will hold up far better than either of the two previously mentioned oils.
You'll have to decide for your-self if 100% pure PAO syth oil (Mobil1 & Royal Purple) or hydro processed synth oils (Motorcraft Semi-Syn & USA mfg Castrol Syntec) are "better" for you. Not sure about Valvoline Syn-Power, PAO or Hydro processed.

Bottom line, you'll have to do your own research. Figure out your own driving habits. Are you just going to/from work? Do you tow alot or haul heavy loads most of the time? Do you hot rod the vehicle, drive on dusty, unimproved roads? Then determine how much money you can afford to spend to make yourself feel good about the decision you've made.

As myself and others have pointed out in earlier threads, some of these 5W20 oils that qualify to be used in the V10 get consumed considerably between oil change intervals. Going thru 1 1/2 to 2 quarts of oil between oil changes when using oil that costs $6 a quart is an expensive way to maintain an engine. When you make your decision about the oil you want to use, and you haven't already done so. Keep an eye on the dipstick for an oil change or two. I believe if consumption is an issue, it may be one of the driving factors when considering which oil you'll want to use long term.

Enjoy,
RustyFuryIII

 

I have used royal purple and I have used mobile one in my truck.

I have Mobile one in it now, next change im going to go back to Royal Purple. I don;t know why, but I like it better with the Royal purple.

I would not use Dino. Since you do short trips, and only put 9000 miles on it a year, I would use synthetic. All those short trips can change the Ph level of the oil. The short trips add condensation, then in turn adds H2O to the crank case. This cause's most of the wear and corrosion.

A synthetic oil will hold up better to that type of wear. Also, the synthetics Add pack will last longer, so you could go the whole year with one oil change.

But, cause im really ****, if I was you, id change my oil 2x a year.
If you use dino, id do it every 3000 miles.
IM REALLY ****. too i dont spend much on oil, (my friend knows a supplier)

 

****....

The thing to keep in mind is that condensation is condensation - it won't change or become something different in neither of the oils - syn or dino. Same with powdery dusts and metal flakes, carbon, etc.

I think 150ford had the right idea in post #8.

 

Condensation is H2O. It gathers mainly in the oil filler cap. If your engine gets hot and stays hot, it will evaporate the H2O. If, like this guy, take a lot of short trips and his motor is not hot long enough, the un evaporated condensation can gather so much so, that drops of H2o will fall into the oil.

At least thats how I have Learned it.

The drops of water can mess up the oils lubercation effectivness. Synthetics "IMOP" deal better with this "not to common" issue.



but its what floats your boat.

money not being a issue, i buy the best. and the best is NOT the most $ most places around here sell M1 extended, Pennzoil Platt, and royal purple the same price. and AMS oil is more than most all of them.

find what you like. read up on the stats.

 

Condensation forms just about anywhere moist air is in contact with a surface that is below dew point, not just the oil filler cap.

Take a look at the weep hole at the bottom rear of many factory mufflers, or out the tailpipe of any car or truck in front of you on your way to work in the morning.

That water dripping out is condensed water vapor, and it gets into the crankcase before the piston rings seal up the cylinder walls before the engine is fully warmed up. Along with unburned gasoline.

If you don't drive more than 20mins to 25mins after starting up your engine, that stuff stays in your crankcase regardless of what oil you use. And if those driving conditions match yours, then your engine maintenance no longer falls under "normal useage" and you're supposed to follow the same oil change intervals as those who tow or off road. Lest sludge build up inside. Though, to be honest, the oils of today are supposed to deal far more effectively with sludge than oils of years gone by.

Enjoy,
RustyFuryIII