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Bed shaking? how to fix?

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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 02:57 PM
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Bed shaking? how to fix?

Has anyone every heard their bed shaking and rattling while riding down the highway? Mine does... I want to fix it, I can stand on my bumper and jump up and down and the whole bed shakes, but only the bed. On my old toyota I did the same to test the shocks and the truck moved, not just the bed. How to fix, what to look for and what to do?
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 05:53 PM
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First thing to check would be the mounting bolts,are they all there and still tight.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 05:54 PM
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A bed bolt must be loose or the bed sides are about to fall off. Grab a bedside at the bottom like you want to pick the bed up and start shaking to see where its coming from
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 05:57 PM
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Check your bed mounts and the bolts
 
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Old Feb 5, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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I think the bed sides are fine. I jump on the bumper and the whole entire bed shakes, floor front back, bumper everything. So I think they're fine. I'll check the bed bolts tommorrow probably. Thanks.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 11:36 AM
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Toyotas have fully boxed frames, so the frame barely flexes when you jump up and down on the bumper. Now, your Ford and most other trucks have a C channel frame which means the frame is not boxed and it will twist when side loaded. Drive up on something with just one front tire to flex the suspension, get out and look at the gap between the cab and bed, see how the body lines dont match, thats frame flex. So your truck may be normal, or, your frame is cracked!
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 06:28 PM
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Originally Posted by mortis08
your frame is cracked!
YIKES!!! I hope not. I'll check it soon hopefully.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 06:49 PM
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Doubtful your frame is cracked, the 88-98 chevys are known for it in 4-5 spots and frame rot bad where(dare I say it) the boxed area before the tranny crossmember.
Check your tailgate for back and forth too the rubber stops go bad. My 92 was that way new stops and adjust for new ones with the strikers and its quiet.
C channel may flex more but look at your semis thats all C channel and tons of TQ heavy loads. Boxed may be strong but its also weaker to the extent of it has no give like a C if it flexes it wont come back, and Looking back at old boxed Jeep frames they all rotted along with the front half of the 88-98 chevys they hold moisture, dirt, salt and crap that is almost impossible to get out.
Check your tailgate also.

Curtis
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:06 PM
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On second thought, I don't beleive the frame is cracked because I've put it up on the lift at the school shop plenty of times. If it's cracked bad enough to let it shake that bad, then I'm pretty sure I would've seen that. but I'll check just in case.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:06 PM
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One thing you've got to remember about semis it that is WAY more torque than any half ton truck could ever produce from the factory......they are made to twist to an extent...if they didn't then the torque and power coming from the drivetrain would crack it in half......Also, the early Jeeps rotted out because yes, moisture dirt and other grime gets trapped......but nowadays frames get hot dipped in all kinds of protective things to prevent that.

Mortis...you bring up a good point but as already said...Chevies are more prone to frame cracks than any ford...I've only seen a handful of Fords that had cracks in them...they all wore shoes over 35 inches tall too.....that's alot of stress...Chevies crack cause they're crap.Another thing as well...the older Toyos were fully boxed...howeverin another thread on here someone posted pics of Brand new Tundras that were totaled out...nothing fully boxed there...all thin **** c channel......talk about a crumpled mess...I feel sorry for the dumb slobs that pay for that heap.

To input on your question...check your bed bolts and your bushings......I doubt your bolts rattled lose because they're a pain to undo in themselves but I guess anything's possible....I vote mounts/bushings.Luck

JR
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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just went out and checked it, the frame seems to be alright, can't tell on the drivers side, because EVERYTHING is on that side on the frame rail. but it looks ok. I think it's normal. Just normal flexing of the body the tools in the tool box rattling. Most of the bolts seemed to be there and tight. At least the ones in the back and the front were. I couldn't see the others. Either way, I think it's normal. could have something to do with the rear suspension and sway bar.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:23 PM
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I know what I see, I live in the rust belt, I work on a fleet of 130 1/2-1ton 4x4 chevys they crack the back lower front diff mount due to stress from having a plow on the front( seems odd but true), front frame horns tear with western unimount plows, frame at the point of motor mount tower back to the tranny crossmember is all boxed 2 drain holes = rot had to retire a couple trucks because they have been repaired and oxidation doesn't sleep unless you acid it, lastly behind the lower control arm seen cracking there.
Newer or older it doesn't matter they all rust steel is steel my friends 03 yukon is already bubble fest on the body and frame is scaling, along with my friends 04 f150 its got alittle starting everywhere but grab a finger in a hole its got rust and a build up of salt dirt and moisture in it all at the holes so its not flowing out they will be problematic for rust.

My 2 cents
Curtis
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:26 PM
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You might also check the rear leaf-spring hangers; they were factory powder coated, tend to hold moisture and rust out.
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 07:27 PM
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The salt belt has ruined many good cars/trucks that's for sure...you'd think the manufacturers would dip the entirity of the frames in a vat of something to combat it.....but then how would they sell the next few years right?

JR
 
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Old Feb 6, 2008 | 08:04 PM
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It is tough to combat the salt. For those of you in the south, the salt gets EVERYWHERE. Any little crack in a coating will give the salt a way in. The nooks and crannies don't help either as it gives the stuff room to fester. The solution to the problem is to try and find something to use for melting ice/snow that isn't as corrosive and yet is affordable.
 
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