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Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 1991-1994, 1995-2001, 2002-2005, 2006-2010 Ford Explorer

a4ld problem

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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 05:51 PM
  #1  
tow mater's Avatar
tow mater
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a4ld problem

I have a 92 ford explorer with the a4ld automatic transmission, the problem I have is that it wont go into any of the drive gears, it goes into reverse with no problem, once in a while it will pop into drive if the motor is reved up to redline for a few seconds, this is a problem that gradually got worse over time. I was told it might be a pinched seal. I dont see that. there was a fluid flush done about 1 month before the problem occured. I was wondering if anyone knew which part of the trany might have been cleaned out too much for this problem. do I need to replace the valve body or would I be better off putting a whole new trany in ?
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 08:05 PM
  #2  
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Graygeorge
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Check to make sure the fluid level is correct. Mine did the same and it was low. If it is low with no leaks, check modulator valve.
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 08:07 PM
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the trany has no leaks, the fluid is right where its supposed to be and the modulator valve is brand new. still have the same problem, everything that can be replaced without taking the trany off has been, except the valve body
 

Last edited by tow mater; Feb 3, 2008 at 08:20 PM.
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:17 AM
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Bear River
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Seems to me that the bands are either excessively worn, or due to worn or shrunken seals, the pressure is not high enough to engage the bands fully.

That flushing the system can damage the tranny is somewhat of a myth. The flush machines can, an I do not recommend using them, but the A4LD can flush itself. When you flush it that way, the results are always positive in my experience, even with dying transmissions. Chances are that the valve body is leaking internally and causing the problems you are experienceing, and it is probably coupled with mechanical wear. I just had my tranny rebuilt a few months ago, and while mine was a severe worst case (the tranny was badly burnt.) there were problems with lots of components other than the valve body. I ended up needing a total rebuild. I had them actually beef it up instead of just replacing the bad parts. It now has stronger bands, and the pressure has been increased, so the shifts are firmer. The result is less wear in the long term, I totally expect to get at least another 200,000 miles before any major repairs are needed. The main trick is making sure you change the fluid.
 
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Old Feb 4, 2008 | 09:24 AM
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ok, so if I change the valve body and it still doesnt work, then I will take it in for major repair. that seems to be the only course of action in my case that I can see.this may take me a while however. I really apreciate the help
 
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