Yeah, when I looked close @ the photo it IS labeled 20 Hp.
I saw that and was confused too.
Thinking it's a generic photo since all the 508cc labeled models have the same photo regardless of stated HP.

Yes, the brass looking thing w/ the wires *appears* to be the float bowl. Could those wires connect to a fuel shutoff solenoid? We saw this kind of craziness when the EPA started cracking down on motorcycles.
Like I said I don't do this for a living and have never been inside an Intek before.

Either way follow their instructions to get the model or type # off the engine, not for the tractor itself.
Video here;http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nual_and_more/
Then we can probably get a pdf of the exploded view w/ parts #'s.

HTH
Jim

 

Thanks for the link Jim.

That will work, it looks like it will be on the valve cover.

I'll pull it off.

Not sure what those wires go to, I've only begun to do motor and carb work on cars.

I'll post up what I find.

I didn't search the site a bunch, are there exploded views available to the public?

 

Once you have the model #, or engine type # go here, and enter the info.
It should get you a exploded view w/ parts #

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/mai...nav3&subMenu=3

 

I'm going to try and post up the numbers and what I find today after work.

I could really use this little guy and his dump cart with some work I have planned around the house.

Thanks
Blair

 

I heard lot about that engine it blow head gasket cause run bad plus leak oil.

Did you replace head gasket on that?

 

No head gasket replacement on it.

No major service , just plug, oil, filters, blades has been done to this thing.

 

Just wanted to say I have the info written doen, but it's laying on the dresser and I keep forgetting about it.

I'll work on getting it posted and figure out what is up to update the thread.

Thanks for all the help so far.

 

Numbers:

Model: 31P777

Type: 0348E1, although the E1 don't appear to be needed.

-----: 040506ZE (Couldn't read the notation of number)

Here is the parts PDF:

http://www.briggsandstratton.com/pdf...100/MS5766.pdf

I'm going to re-read the thread and try to get a feel for what I need to do.

A little lost when diagnosing what needs to be done.

EDIT: So I went and re-read your guys diagnosi:

To much fuel getting in there....

This tractor has a small fuel pump. Could the pump be bad, flooding the float/needle seat?

Or is it directly a symptom of the needle/seat?

Fuel pump, little round one mounted on back of engine cover. Part number 387 in the PDF I posted.

Part numbers from the PDF: Part number 105, & 106-691780?

Jim you talking about having it running and trying to tinker with the float to shut if off, or shut of the fuel flow?

Thanks for any input,

Blair

 

.
.
**The first thing I would check is that ref#133(A) part #694914 (the float) will in fact float on gasoline.** The fact that it has a pump and a fuel shutoff solenoid ref# 947(A) part# 699915 complicate things a bit because these are active parts of the fuel system.

Is the return line from the pump to tank clear? THAT could explain it.

I don't want to make assumptions, but from what I understand the crankcase filled w/ gas while the tractor was sitting. ( I didn't see the previous posts you've made. will *search* for them )
You started it one day and it was exhibiting this behavior?

If the pump is vacuum operated and had a ruptured diaphram (pinhole) fuel could get sucked in, and could continue to flow even while off if the vacuum port is below the fuel level of the tank.

Not running.
If it were a gravity system the first thing I would have done is pull the float bowl and lifted the float lightly to see that the fuel stopped flowing.
Regardless, I'd clean ref # 105 & 106 w/ carb cleaner or lacquer thinner and look closely for wear. It could be that they are gummed up, or there's some tiny speck of something keeping them from sealing.
If # 105 has a rubber tip (I don't see it) I'd replace that. If it's all metal look for a little 'ring' on the taper where it seals to the seat. If it's grooved, it's worn from vibration and I'd replace both parts.

Hope this helps,

 

Thanks Jim.

The vac port for the pump sits higher than the tank.

Where is the return line? I don't think I have one to be honest, line from tank to pump, line from pump to carb, and a line from the pump to vac source.

The fule pump actually sits above the tank, or very close to being even with the top.

I'll work on getting it apart to do some study.

Any way to test the fuel pump?

Thanks

Blair

I'd like to get in the carb, but I must be dumb as a rock, I don't see how to get the bowl off.

 

Blair,

If you have the Walbro it has a single nut, ref#950 holding it on.
The Nikki is showing two screws in the ref# 1127

From what you're telling me, I don't think there's a way for it to siphon fuel, so I would check the float & float valve/seat

 

If you are getting a rich mixture. The fuel pump isn't the problem because it requires the engine to run draw vacuum to pump. Either your float sank, you got junk under your needle valve, or you bent the float tab. If it drips gas when its not running check the float and valve. If you messed up the float level it may not leak when shut off but choke will not change anything when it's already running. I don't know how far culpepper is from baltimore but if you want it fixed you can bring it up. No labor charge or tool rental but we will explain what is is wrong and how to fix it.

The rabbit was meant to be as high as 3200 on the Ex-marks, and Scaggs so you're not hurting it by running at high idle. They were more worried about low idle and lugging.

 

Did you try the Seafoam or any good fuel additive. Couple of bucs and you could be on your way. Jmo

 

Jim,

Thanks, I'll try and take a look very soon.

Dumtrucka, that's a great offer, problem is I'm about 2 1/2 to 3 hours out. If all else fails............

Tweter, I've seafoamed it once. I got very little reaction, but then again I only used a couple ounces through the carb.

I'm working pretty hard on the reatining wall for the future carport, maybe I'll take it easy in the AM and tinker on the tractor. My back could use the break anyway.

Many thanks,

Blair

 

You have to put it in the gas tank. By pouring it down the carb throat, it is going straight to the combustion chamber, and doing nothing for the carb itself.