Lawn tractor problems
Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 403
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From: Medina TN
We'll thats where your oil is coming from IMHO. You need a new crankcase breather or you have just a bit too much oil in it. As far as the plug, you just have one heat range hotter. That would not cause your symptoms but I would get the cooler one due to the aluminum head. The increased heat may cause warpage.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 670
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From: Western, PA
Oil will come out of the breather for three reasons.
1. Engine reving up to high
2. To much oil
3. Dipstick not screwed on the whole way or not sealed properly
I have repaired lawn mowers for many years and these are the only reasons I have ever seen to cause oil to come out of the breather.
A quick fix woud be to pull the breather tube off of the intake and just let it hang there, then when the oil comes out it goes onto the ground and not into the carb.
1. Engine reving up to high
2. To much oil
3. Dipstick not screwed on the whole way or not sealed properly
I have repaired lawn mowers for many years and these are the only reasons I have ever seen to cause oil to come out of the breather.
A quick fix woud be to pull the breather tube off of the intake and just let it hang there, then when the oil comes out it goes onto the ground and not into the carb.
Lead Driver
Joined: Jul 2007
Posts: 7,868
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From: Rhode Island
Is there actualy liquid oil coming out of the breather, or just oil vapor? A bit of oil vapor is normal (every small engine I have had does it). But if it is spraying out oil, something is wrong
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Culpeper, Virginia
I don't know if it is spraying into the motor through that tube, or what I felt with my finger is the minor residue.
I went to drain the oil (needed fresh anyhow) and set the level right.
I noticed right away as I drained it that the oil seemed thinner than it should for 5w-30.
When I sniffed it direct, then dipped my finger in it and sniffed again, the oil is saturated with gas.
Probably 50/50 with the oil.
This appears to be really bad, what am I looking at this point in time?
I have done nothing else.
Thanks
Blair
I went to drain the oil (needed fresh anyhow) and set the level right.
I noticed right away as I drained it that the oil seemed thinner than it should for 5w-30.
When I sniffed it direct, then dipped my finger in it and sniffed again, the oil is saturated with gas.
Probably 50/50 with the oil.
This appears to be really bad, what am I looking at this point in time?
I have done nothing else.
Thanks
Blair
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 670
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From: Western, PA
Originally Posted by 78bigunns
When I sniffed it direct, then dipped my finger in it and sniffed again, the oil is saturated with gas.
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Bad float needle /seat, waterlogged float. (not really water, but saturated w/ gas)
Pull the float bowl and see if you can lift the float to shut it off.
Pull the float bowl and see if you can lift the float to shut it off.
Last edited by ArdWrknTrk; Feb 10, 2008 at 07:58 PM.
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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From: Medina TN
Originally Posted by ArdWrknTrk
Bad float needle /seat, waterlogged float. (not really water, but saturated w/ gas)
A quick fix is to install a fuel shut off in the fuel line before the carb. Installing a new float and pin is cheap and easy as well and is the ultimate fix.
I knew that there had to be too much volume in the crankcase......
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Originally Posted by streethealer
a quick fix is to install a fuel shut off in the fuel line before the carb.
Originally Posted by streethealer
Installing a new float and pin is cheap and easy as well and is the ultimate fix.
It could be as easy as replacing the Viton tip on the needle. (But as I said above, I've never worked on a Entek, and can't find a breakout on the B&S website) So I don't KNOW what the inside of the carb looks like on one of these things.
Glad to hear it's an easy fix.
Good luck Bigguns!
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Culpeper, Virginia
Thanks for the input fellas.
I believe it's a gravity feed job, big tank on back end, the line comes up under the chassis area, on driver's side there is the filter, and it goes into a small round object. Got a fuel line in, then a line to the carb, and a different line going to something else.
I need to look at it to remember.
I'll need to get something for that little carb, sure it's easy but I like pictures for something I've never done.
So if it's loading up on gas in the crankcase, is the plume of smoke coming from what?
I'll take a look at getting that carb off and apart.
Thanks
Blair
I believe it's a gravity feed job, big tank on back end, the line comes up under the chassis area, on driver's side there is the filter, and it goes into a small round object. Got a fuel line in, then a line to the carb, and a different line going to something else.
I need to look at it to remember.
I'll need to get something for that little carb, sure it's easy but I like pictures for something I've never done.
So if it's loading up on gas in the crankcase, is the plume of smoke coming from what?
I'll take a look at getting that carb off and apart.
Thanks
Blair
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Blair,
The thin oil is being forced past the rings and/or out through the breather back into the carb because there's no more room in the crankcase, plus it's running way too rich. Both are causing smoke.
You shouldn't have to remove the carb to fix the float. shut off the fuel..if there's a valve, or pinch the line w/ a pair of hemostats, or drain the tank.
Then drop the bowl and either replace the float if it's saturated or look to see if the float needle is sealing on it's seat.
I can't find a diagram, do you have a manual?
The thin oil is being forced past the rings and/or out through the breather back into the carb because there's no more room in the crankcase, plus it's running way too rich. Both are causing smoke.
You shouldn't have to remove the carb to fix the float. shut off the fuel..if there's a valve, or pinch the line w/ a pair of hemostats, or drain the tank.
Then drop the bowl and either replace the float if it's saturated or look to see if the float needle is sealing on it's seat.
I can't find a diagram, do you have a manual?
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2001
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From: Culpeper, Virginia
Jim,
Thanks for the input.
Only book work I have for this thing is a owners manual.
I can try and find something in the local co-op on this, seems most of their literature is geared to older large tractor restorations.
I'll look at it tomorrow if I get home early enough, and possible take some pics.
Maybe you guys can walk me through what I need to do over a couple evenings.
Many thanks,
Blair
Thanks for the input.
Only book work I have for this thing is a owners manual.
I can try and find something in the local co-op on this, seems most of their literature is geared to older large tractor restorations.
I'll look at it tomorrow if I get home early enough, and possible take some pics.
Maybe you guys can walk me through what I need to do over a couple evenings.
Many thanks,
Blair
pedant
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 23,576
Likes: 40
From: EXTREME southwest CT
Blair,
I need to find a model# or type to get the diagram from B&S's website.
Can you look @ these webpages and identify it for us?
Is this yours?
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engine_power/details.aspx?pid=47
Thanks
I still don't see the model or type # here. This page tells me it should be stamped on the valve cover. Look @ the bottom of the page for intek pro.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engine_power/details.aspx?pid=47
I need to find a model# or type to get the diagram from B&S's website.
Can you look @ these webpages and identify it for us?
Is this yours?
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engine_power/details.aspx?pid=47
Thanks
I still don't see the model or type # here. This page tells me it should be stamped on the valve cover. Look @ the bottom of the page for intek pro.
http://www.briggsandstratton.com/engine_power/details.aspx?pid=47
Last edited by ArdWrknTrk; Feb 10, 2008 at 10:57 PM.
Thread Starter
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Posting Guru
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,777
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From: Culpeper, Virginia
That's my motor for sure. Everything is the same as mine from the oil fill to the carb, to the valve cover and spark plug location.
Except that one is marked as 20hp and mine is 18.5.
I can pull the model # when I get home. It's on a sticker under the hood with the serial # also and a small parts # list for plug, filters, belts, etc.
Looking at the pic, what part of the carb am I pulling loose?
When I took it off to clean it and try to flush it, I had to pull it as an assembly.
I thought maybe the bottom metal piece was the fuel bowl (where the small pair of wires are plugged in), but I'll be damned if I could get it loose.
Many thanks,
Blair
Except that one is marked as 20hp and mine is 18.5.
I can pull the model # when I get home. It's on a sticker under the hood with the serial # also and a small parts # list for plug, filters, belts, etc.
Looking at the pic, what part of the carb am I pulling loose?
When I took it off to clean it and try to flush it, I had to pull it as an assembly.
I thought maybe the bottom metal piece was the fuel bowl (where the small pair of wires are plugged in), but I'll be damned if I could get it loose.
Many thanks,
Blair