RPM Sensor
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 0
From: Baldwin, ND
RPM Sensor
I just tested the RPM sensor. I unhooked the connector and put my pos lead into each side with the neg at the battery. According to what I read here:
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-mlps.html
I should get and increase in the voltage reading. I got nothing so.... I am assuming that my RPM sensor is bad. Would I be correct? Or is there other possibilities?
Thad
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/2...-the-mlps.html
I should get and increase in the voltage reading. I got nothing so.... I am assuming that my RPM sensor is bad. Would I be correct? Or is there other possibilities?
Thad
Lead Driver
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 6,900
Likes: 3
From: Campbell River, B.C.
Originally Posted by dakotajeep
It seems to function correctly but I am curious if its sending bad signals elsewhere.
Thad
Thad
1.RPM sensor
Diesel only- very common Ford part # E5TZ-17B384-A. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit failure). A bad RPM sensor can cause LU and/ or the shifls to go in and out (cycle back and forth).
Check RPM sensor with DVOM set to on AC voltage. RPM sensor is
located below the engine oil filler neck in the housing.
Here's how to check it
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
Diesel only- very common Ford part # E5TZ-17B384-A. May or may not set code 14/211 (RPM sensor circuit failure). A bad RPM sensor can cause LU and/ or the shifls to go in and out (cycle back and forth).
Check RPM sensor with DVOM set to on AC voltage. RPM sensor is
located below the engine oil filler neck in the housing.
Here's how to check it
1. Remove 2-wire connector end.
2. Hook meter leads to pins on sensor. It doesn't matter which way you hook up the red or black leads.
3. Set scale to AC/ 0 to 40-volt scale..
4. Start engine in park. Raise rpm while watching DVOM.
5. Voltage must increase or RPM sensor is bad.
Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,132
Likes: 0
From: Baldwin, ND
I think that I am going to replace the VSS and the RPM sensor just to rule them out. They are not that expensive. If that doesnt work at least I have replacements.....
I am trying to figure out my torque converter locking and unlocking issue. Maybe this will help. The more I think about it, it seems that I maybe way off.
Thad
I am trying to figure out my torque converter locking and unlocking issue. Maybe this will help. The more I think about it, it seems that I maybe way off.
Thad
Last edited by dakotajeep; Feb 4, 2008 at 09:06 AM.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 5,638
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From: Manitoba
Check your brake pedal assy and switch....... the pedal assy can operate the switch if there is worn bushings etc any brake light operation unlocks the TC.
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Thread Starter
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Laughing Gas
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 1,132
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From: Baldwin, ND
Pete
I was monitoring the tail lights as I was driving the other night and its seems to lock and unlock without the tail lights coming on.
I read on the diesel stop that you said there is a solenoid in the tranny solenoid pack that operates the TC. Is that a possibility? Just curious....
Thad
I was monitoring the tail lights as I was driving the other night and its seems to lock and unlock without the tail lights coming on.
I read on the diesel stop that you said there is a solenoid in the tranny solenoid pack that operates the TC. Is that a possibility? Just curious....
Thad
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 728
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the solenoid you are speaking of is called the TCC solenoid it is part of the solenoid assembly quite costly and extremely rare to fail such as your description , my #1 guess would be the fipl sensor due to fluctuating voltage , the vss usually affects gear command and not just tcc cycling the tach sensor could be a concern if it has intermittant signal spikes
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 728
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since you are having issues and have replaced it and also based on past experience , i recommend installing three new wires from the fipl to the pcm you can run them individually of the wiring loom and just cut the connections a few inches from the pcm and the fipl eliminate the original three wires with new ones if you have the tools and experience soldering the splices and using heat shrink tubing to insulate the connection is best