No, Rich. That definitely is not the issue. I've had the wheel and hub off that side at least 4-5 times since the initial shock replacement and leveling kit install. I just replaced the hub's/rotors back in the spring, and everything is tight and clear. The ONLY time i hear the noise is while I am in the middle of a turn to the right and the body of the truck begins to roll a little. If I turn to the right slow enough for no body roll, there is no sound at all.

 

Understood. Thanks for the clarification.

 

No way to answer that question without hearing it, and even then, it sometimes requires driving next to a wall, so the sounds can be reflected back at you. I use a set of Matco "Chassis Ears" with radio transmitters to isolate sound emitting locations while driving. From this experience, I've learned that I can't reliably and accurately diagnose the true source of noise by merely guessing.

However, I have experienced squeaking and creaking in my truck... that sounded like an ancient battleship. I should have renamed it the Black Pearl, but I'm not sure if those movies were out back then. I quickly silenced the squeaks by installing a new style of nylon insert, pursuant to a Ford TSB that was released to address this common problem.

Unfortunately, this 8 piece nylon spring insert set will not work on your style of leaf springs, as you have a 2002 model year. The front spring arrangment is different.

ATS Junior brought up a point about the retention nibs being visible through the hole of the lower spring, while the friction pad itself is worn away. In looking at the images you posted, the edges of the friction pad itself are visible on either side of the leaf through which the nib is inserted. If the friction pad were completely worn away metal to metal, and that wear were to occur in the middle of the pad, then there would be no connection to keep the edges of the pad from becoming dislodged and falling away.

The front axle weight could still sandwich worn crescents or half circles between the leaves, but typically when that happens, the disconnected plastic crescent pieces that formerly made up a whole circle tend to shift around a bit. However, the visible edges of your inserts appear to be perfectly concentric with the center retention nub, leading me to believe that there is still a contiguous connection between the nub and the pad.

Nevertheless, there is only one way to find out for sure. Jack the front of the truck up, support the frame with two jack stands positioned just behind the aft front spring shackle on each frame rail, high enough so that the axle remains supported by the street, but the spring compression is completely relaxed.

With leaves thus uncompressed, you can take a pry bar and separate the leaves slightly, to the extent that the metal wrap around cleat will allow, and peer in between the leaves to have a look at the friction surface of each plastic friction pad. While they are apart, and if they are in decent condition, clean them with a plastic safe formula, and lubricate them with a plastic safe lubricant.

I'd probably wet spray it with CRC 3-36, and then apply either SylGlide, Silicone dielectric grease, or a PTFE (Teflon) based grease on the plastic pad.

On the front section of the front leaf springs, Ford used to install a foot long shipping insert in between the springs, with the instructions embossed on them to "Remove" during PDI (pre delivery inspection). What was discovered by accident is that if the plastic shipping insert was left in place, no harm was done, and the springs remained quieter. That is why I asked for another view of the front half of your front spring... to see if that shipping insert was in place or not.

 

You can hijack anytime you want Pete. Heck, you've given out more assistance and help on this forum than you'll ever receive back. Anyone that thinks otherwise can kiss my a$$. Lex ain't the OP anyway - this thread is 6 years old!

 

 

i thought they made noise like that from the factory! guess i never owned a brand new one!

 

Crop Harvester, Y2kW57.

Thanks so much guys. I will jack up the truck and release tension from the leaf springs and check for parts integrity, take some more pics.

If it looks good maybe I will clean and grease. Would synthetic axle lubricant not be appropriate?

 

Most axle lubricants stink. I wouldn't use them in open air for that reason alone.

 

hmmm...I know gear oil stinks to high heaven, but I dont remember the regular vat of grease I have smelling bad...

 

Brief conversation in which greasing leaf springs is not recommended.

Lubricating Leaf Springs - Tech

On the other hand, this guy removed, painted and greased his leaf springs. (A Nissan Titan not a Furd)

http://www.titantalk.com/forums/tita...squeaking.html

I wonder if chroming the springs (hello bankruptcy) or having them powder coated would be worthwhile.

and an F150

http://www.ehow.com/how_7703541_lubr...2001-f150.html

and more greasing of leafs and bushings.

http://www.ehow.com/how_8074234_stop...ing-noise.html

 

if your worried about bad smells, just put a piece of bacon between each leaf spring.

 

I use aerosol graphite on my 5th wheel with creaky suspension, I don't see why it wouldn't work here.

 

How DARE YOU....waste bacon. Sir!

 

This Jeep owner greased the bushings and not the leafs. Seems reasonable.

Jeep Horizons :: How-to Grease Leaf Springs

These cats sell greasable pins.

http://www.autoandtrucksprings.com/c...ins-141-1.html

 

The article says using petroleum based lubricants on the leaf springs themselves is not recommended.

My suggestion earlier in this thread was to use a teflon based, or a silicon based, plastic safe lubricant on the spring pads (the plastic inserts).