v10 power
The V10 is a very stout engine, 5-6 psi wouldn't hurt it one bit. Stock rods let go around 450whp.
Only threat is detonation under heavy load so you might be required to run 93-95 octane to pull a grade with that kind of towing weight.
other then that youd see a slight increase of cylinder wall and ring wear from higher CP but I would still last a long time.
Only threat is detonation under heavy load so you might be required to run 93-95 octane to pull a grade with that kind of towing weight.
other then that youd see a slight increase of cylinder wall and ring wear from higher CP but I would still last a long time.
Twinscrew9.0
I've been running this supercharged V10 for 20 years pulling a 30 ft trailer and a side by side behind it with no problem like I said it pulls like a mother a lot of help comes from the gearvendors underoverdrive and 4.88 gears and I'm running 91 octane with 10psi with water/methanol injection no problems is a great truck
This thread was originally posted in January of 2008 which was 11 years ago. Your newbie status has nothing to do with the age of the thread.
I too have a KB supercharger with a small pulley. 10-12 psi.
Water meth is a requirement as in 70 degree weather boost temp was 250 degrees. WM keeps boosted temps below 120 degrees but boy it uses alot of WM.
I love the 1800 rpm 6 to 8 psi boosted torque. It's just a torque monster. The WM somehow adds 2 psi at low rpm.
In the winter when temps are below 30 deg the water meth does not cool as well but I still use it. I've never had any detination with WM.......even at 12 psi boost.
In my opinion hp is irrelevant because I hardly ever rev above 3000 rpm. Don't need to because I have gobs of torque where I need it.
Sizing a turbo to push 10 psi at 2000 rpm would be best for our trucks.
Low rpm boost fills cylinders better and boosts efficency. Remember 2000 rpm at 50% throttle NA is probably under 50% efficency. So cylinder is only 1/2 full of air. Boosting can fill that cylinder alot more, allowing more air at 50% throttle. Dynamic compression is higher boosted. That means cylinder pressure is higher boosted. BUT cylinder pressure at low rpm boost is probably lower than a NA motor at higher rpm and higher efficency at those rpms. So stress and wear during low rpm boost is probably less than the stress and wear at higher rpm NA motors.
At 3200 rpm efficency is about 80% so you displace 2.7 liters of air per rev......at wot.
At 2000 rpm and 50% throttle your probably at 30% efficency. Or about 1 liter of air per rev.
Even at 10 psi boost at 2000 rpm you probably will not see cylinder pressure above what you would see at high rpm and higher efficency due to throttle body all the way open with a NA motor.
Boost the V10 and don't look back.
Water meth is a requirement as in 70 degree weather boost temp was 250 degrees. WM keeps boosted temps below 120 degrees but boy it uses alot of WM.
I love the 1800 rpm 6 to 8 psi boosted torque. It's just a torque monster. The WM somehow adds 2 psi at low rpm.
In the winter when temps are below 30 deg the water meth does not cool as well but I still use it. I've never had any detination with WM.......even at 12 psi boost.
In my opinion hp is irrelevant because I hardly ever rev above 3000 rpm. Don't need to because I have gobs of torque where I need it.
Sizing a turbo to push 10 psi at 2000 rpm would be best for our trucks.
Low rpm boost fills cylinders better and boosts efficency. Remember 2000 rpm at 50% throttle NA is probably under 50% efficency. So cylinder is only 1/2 full of air. Boosting can fill that cylinder alot more, allowing more air at 50% throttle. Dynamic compression is higher boosted. That means cylinder pressure is higher boosted. BUT cylinder pressure at low rpm boost is probably lower than a NA motor at higher rpm and higher efficency at those rpms. So stress and wear during low rpm boost is probably less than the stress and wear at higher rpm NA motors.
At 3200 rpm efficency is about 80% so you displace 2.7 liters of air per rev......at wot.
At 2000 rpm and 50% throttle your probably at 30% efficency. Or about 1 liter of air per rev.
Even at 10 psi boost at 2000 rpm you probably will not see cylinder pressure above what you would see at high rpm and higher efficency due to throttle body all the way open with a NA motor.
Boost the V10 and don't look back.
Twinscrew9.0
I have a 7 gallon tank in bed of truck but I don't go into boost or use water/methanol injection when I'm towing flat roads only use it when on inclines it's a nice blower do you have a throttle body upgrade I'm considering the accufab what do you think
I have a 7 gallon tank in bed of truck but I don't go into boost or use water/methanol injection when I'm towing flat roads only use it when on inclines it's a nice blower do you have a throttle body upgrade I'm considering the accufab what do you think
The best upgrades would be:
1) some kind of hood scoop that would direct outside air onto the blower unit. Blowing ambiant on a 250 degree blower will cool it off and reduce cruise IAT. This would help the most with heat soak that happens after about 20 min of driving.
2) Get a way to actually have outside air to the intake side of blower.
3) put your water meth tank in a cooler and ice it down.
I forgot to mention that exhaust manifold and pipe improvements may help reduce boost psi but increase air flow.....via less restriction.
This is mainly for medium to higher rpm ranges. Because at low rpms very little volume of exhaust is being produced. The faster the motor revs the more gas it pushes out. So larger better flowing exhaust for rpms above 3000 or so.
So, maybe headers and larger diesel exhaust system may help too.
This is mainly for medium to higher rpm ranges. Because at low rpms very little volume of exhaust is being produced. The faster the motor revs the more gas it pushes out. So larger better flowing exhaust for rpms above 3000 or so.
So, maybe headers and larger diesel exhaust system may help too.
Sorry it will not.
It's the air that regulates the engine rpm. That's why gassers have butterflies. Load it down and you need to add more air by opening butterflies more. Until your at wot.
WOT is a whole different animal. Dynos record hp and torque at WOT. Not part throttle.
All a better flowing throttle body will do is reduce how much butterflies open at a given load...until WOT.
kinda like putting larger injectors in. They will not increase hp at all. They just cycle less to keep air fuel ratio.
Adding a bigger TB is your decision. It won't hurt anything. But could cause MAF issues if you do not have a Lightning MAF. At WOT more air will come in and the stock MAF is pegged on our V10s at about 9 psi and 4500 rpm.
I have a lightning MAF so I can boost to 12 psi if I need to.








