So I discovered that my water pump is in bad shape. It's not leaking, but when you take the tension off the belt, you can move the fan, ALOT!! I bought a pump, therm, therm housing, new upper hose that goes over the serpentine, new serpentine, and the idler adjust pulley. Oh yeah, 6637 while I was there, but that's a different topic. Are there any tips that I need to know, such as sealant on the therm housing and the water pump? Any good tricks to get the fan off? Anything you guys can think of to help would be appreciated.

 

leave the belt on until you get the fan clutch and hub pulley loose.

 

I tried that, but it just turned. I 'm pretty sure that the threads are reverse, right to loosen?

 

the threads are standard

 

I never can get the fan to unscrew off the pump while in the engine compartment. I always end up taking the water pump with the fan attached out as a unit. I then put the impeller in the vice and loosen the big nut for the fan clutch. The threads are standard.

 

I just get a fan clutch removal tool ( Autozone has a loaner ) just make sure you get the bigger kit .

 

Though it is sealed by a big o-ring, I still use Aviation Form-a-Gasket on the water pump mating surfaces. No leaks.

Same on the thermostat housing.

Hold the thermostat housing down by hand and, using some blue LocTite, start all three bolts, running them all down by hand until they are snug on the housing. Then, tighten them all down successively, a half-turn at a time, until the o-ring is seated properly. That way, you take the housing down squarely on the o-ring, preventing it from squeezing out wrong. Get out some of your "significant other's" nail polish, and put a "torque-stripe" on both the bolt heads and housing so that you can see if the bolts ever loosen.

I don't know if it's the Ford-approved way, but I didn't have any leaks.

Oh yes, one more thing, but it's AN IMPORTANT THING:

Do NOT use the factory-recommended torque specs for the water pump retaining bolts. You'll break one or more bolts every time!!! The factory says something like 30 ft-pounds. THAT IS WRONG! I think it's really something like 18. Look it up by doing a search here on FTE.

Oh, and one more thing, if you've never changed your CPS, it's never going to be more accessable than when the water pump is out.

Pop

 

I used a chain wrench and some rubber and wrapped it around the pully, and then just shock loaded the wrench on the fan nut just a little with a hammer and it came right off.

 

That was the way I did it, although I used a strap wrench. You might want to get your thermostat before you start as well, I had to run to 4 different parts stores to get everything I needed. Just did mine Sunday. Carefull where you put your O ring on the thermostat, might want to use sealant on the pipe fromthe lower hose where it mates to the water pump.. WHile in there, might as wel check your intercooler boots, alot more room with out the shroud and fan in there, as far as the nuckle busters, go ahead and bleed, you will make more

 

I've been twisting the wrenches for 26 years now, tried all kinds of different sealants to get an o-ring seal to last longer.
No disrespect to you, Springerpop, but the Permatex IMO is better suited for use on finely machined flanges or as a thin coating to enhance a gasket's sealing ability.
For an O-ring it needs to be able to expand and contract with the thermal cycles of the engine and the glue type stuff will only anchor it down in one spot and reduce it's ability to flex and close the gap. It needs to be able to "wiggle like a worm" in it's groove.
What I use at work for any and all o-ring flanges is to use a thin coating of NAPA Sil-Glyde, part # 765-1351.
Don't mound it up anywhere, but just lube all the surfaces, including the area of the engine block where the o-ring comes into contact. Make it shiny like a greased griddle, but not so thick that you see a layer.
The grease is waterproof and good for -40 to 400f or something like that. Very wide temperature range.
Proper use of this stuff will ensure a leak-free fitting for years.

 

The Ford tech that helped me R&R my water pump used an air impact chisel on the fan nut. He didn't cut it off, just used the blade at an angle on the flat of the nut and it backed right off. It put a small groove on the flat but didn't booger it up to where a wrench wouldn't still fit it.

 

Go with the 203* stat and billet housing from Diesel site, since you are in there already.

 

I just replaced my water pump this past weekend. It locked up on me, which made it easy to take the fan of with a chisel and hammer.

 

Cant imagine that would be to good in the long run, i am just thinking of a out of balance thing, with the radial load from the belt..But, I could be over thinking it as well. It has been known to happen, just as not thinking at all has. Do not share that with my wife....She already holds her own opinion

 

I'm always up for something new.

I'll have some of this stuff before the day's out! :-))

Pop