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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 01:50 PM
  #16  
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have to agree that it either has the first gasket still on there, or it simply isn't tight enough. i doubt seriously that anything is cracked. that would be just too much of a coincidence that it started leaking right after you changed it, and got cracked then also.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 05:11 PM
  #17  
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First things first, there is NO old o-ring \ gasket on the housing, it is shiny bear metal, completely free of cracks and debris. I put a 3rd new filter on today, and changed brands to a WIX filter. Tightened it as tight as I can possibly get it, and after running for less than 10 minutes, it starts leaking again. I checked to make sure that the allen bolt that holds it on was tight and it was.
Is it possible that the filter housing is not bypassing like it should be, and is putting all the oil ( and full pressure ) thru the filter?
I'm at my wits in with this truck, it has never gave me any problems untill now, and off course it is snowing outside, so I get pass up making money plowing.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 05:22 PM
  #18  
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are you tightening by hand? if so, put a filter wrench on there and tighten that mother down. again, i just can't see it being something like the bypass, a crack, etc. since it started right when you changed the oil and filter. maybe the return from the filter is clogged or restricted by something.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by mastercaster
are you tightening by hand? if so, put a filter wrench on there and tighten that mother down. again, i just can't see it being something like the bypass, a crack, etc. since it started right when you changed the oil and filter. maybe the return from the filter is clogged or restricted by something.
oil filters should always be hand tight.

something doesn't add up bud. are you getting the parts from the same store/parts guy? Maybe hes an idiot. Try a genuine motorcraft filter from a genuine ford or motorcraft dealer... thats really the only thing left. the only thing i can think of is he is giving you the filter for the wrong engine/truck.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 07:33 PM
  #20  
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My 04 F150 did that ,took it off several times ,nothing wrong ,found out that the oil pressure sender wire would get under the filter,take it off it wasn't noticable,black wire in the shade,my 04 f150 the filter screwed in from the front,was nearly flat and was way back in a near tunnel,took a filter socket and long extention to get it,my two cents
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 08:29 PM
  #21  
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From: Leander, TX
Originally Posted by Wayne64SS
oil filters should always be hand tight.

something doesn't add up bud. are you getting the parts from the same store/parts guy? Maybe hes an idiot. Try a genuine motorcraft filter from a genuine ford or motorcraft dealer... thats really the only thing left. the only thing i can think of is he is giving you the filter for the wrong engine/truck.
i agree that hand tight is the way to go, but in this case something is up. you won't hurt anything by putting a wrench on it as long as you don't overtighten it and screw the gasket up.
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 08:34 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by crew02
First things first, there is NO old o-ring \ gasket on the housing, it is shiny bear metal, completely free of cracks and debris. I put a 3rd new filter on today, and changed brands to a WIX filter. Tightened it as tight as I can possibly get it, and after running for less than 10 minutes, it starts leaking again. I checked to make sure that the allen bolt that holds it on was tight and it was.
Is it possible that the filter housing is not bypassing like it should be, and is putting all the oil ( and full pressure ) thru the filter?
I'm at my wits in with this truck, it has never gave me any problems untill now, and off course it is snowing outside, so I get pass up making money plowing.
Just my 2 cents, but if it's on the superduty with 169,500 miles on it, I'd be looking at the relief valve in the oil pump. Sounds to me like it's stuck and putting too much pressure through oiling system. Won't matter how much you tighten filter it will still leak. I've had the reliefs stick and blow filters apart at the crimp especially in cold temps.
jr
 
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Old Jan 29, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by jrtraderny
Just my 2 cents, but if it's on the superduty with 169,500 miles on it, I'd be looking at the relief valve in the oil pump. Sounds to me like it's stuck and putting too much pressure through oiling system. Won't matter how much you tighten filter it will still leak. I've had the reliefs stick and blow filters apart at the crimp especially in cold temps.
jr
IMO...I think jr is on the right track. Might be time to test the oil pressure with a real gauge.

If after making contact with the base of the oil filter and turning another 3/4 of a turn...and still getting a leak, then the system is getting to much pressure.


biz
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 05:48 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jrtraderny
Just my 2 cents, but if it's on the superduty with 169,500 miles on it, I'd be looking at the relief valve in the oil pump. Sounds to me like it's stuck and putting too much pressure through oiling system. Won't matter how much you tighten filter it will still leak. I've had the reliefs stick and blow filters apart at the crimp especially in cold temps.
jr
A couple questions then:

1. Would it help to run thinner oil ( currently have 10 - 40 in it )
2. Is there anyway to free up t he relief valve, without having to take the pan down or pulling the motor ?
3. What should the oil pressure be with the gauge on it ? With the stock gauge it always reads just past halfway on the gauge.

If the relief valve was stuck, wouldn't it be leaking out under pressure, and the gauge in the dash be reading higher? It still reads the same as it did the day I bought it. And the leak is is slow and steady, like if you filled a glass with water and continued to fill it slowly, so it trickels down the side. But the leak does not start the instant I start up the truck, usually between 5 and 7 minutes, the oil slowly starts leaking out.

Thanks for the Help Guys
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 10:06 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by crew02
A couple questions then:

1. Would it help to run thinner oil ( currently have 10 - 40 in it )
2. Is there anyway to free up t he relief valve, without having to take the pan down or pulling the motor ?
3. What should the oil pressure be with the gauge on it ? With the stock gauge it always reads just past halfway on the gauge.

If the relief valve was stuck, wouldn't it be leaking out under pressure, and the gauge in the dash be reading higher? It still reads the same as it did the day I bought it. And the leak is is slow and steady, like if you filled a glass with water and continued to fill it slowly, so it trickels down the side. But the leak does not start the instant I start up the truck, usually between 5 and 7 minutes, the oil slowly starts leaking out.

Thanks for the Help Guys
10-40 should be fine with that many miles. The dash gauge , who knows for sure they are electric so there is a margin of error. I think I would screw in a mechanical gauge and get a true psi reading first and then go from there. Sometimes you can add a pint of lacquer thinner and it will clean up the varnish that sticks the reliefs but not always.

jr
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 02:45 PM
  #26  
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So ??? What is it ??

jr
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 06:37 PM
  #27  
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Fixed and Back Plowing

I broke down and put a new oil filter cooler on it, and no more leaks.
Upon further inspection, I found a handfull of deep pits on the housing, 2 of witch were on the edge of where the filter gasket would be. That must have been it, drove it and plowed for 5 hours or so today, and not a drop of oil leaked out.

Thanks for all your help

Mike
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 06:40 PM
  #28  
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Good Fix !!

jr
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 08:16 PM
  #29  
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Sorry I didn't get to you earlier. I'm on my 3rd oil cooler... LOL


Dick
 
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by crew02
1. Would it help to run thinner oil ( currently have 10 - 40 in it )

Thanks for the Help Guys

Glad to hear that you are back to plowing snow...and all fixed. However...running that weight (10w40) oil is...well not good for your modular engine. Especially in the winter...when oil takes more time to circulate.

IMO...stick with what FORD calls for and use 5w30...or even the 5w20. You will probably see an increase in mpg too.

Just a friendly tip/suggestion...


biz
 
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