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Fixed the Gusher?????

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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 12:13 AM
  #1  
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Fixed the Gusher?????

I have a 2002 f350 7.3 PS that just hit 180,000 no problems up till now.
About two weeks ago I rustproofed the bottom of my truck and had it towed home.

I spent about 5 hours reading fte posts on oil leaks, was somewhat prepared for what to look for. The inspection cover on the tranny was gushing oil, I removed it and it appeared that the oil was coming from the passenger side rear of the oil pan. Everyone that looked at it while it was running said oil pan or rear main seal. I decided to check the valley and there was plenty of crusty oil but nothing fresh. I spent the better part of a day douching with purple power and super clean, but still no fresh oil on top that I could see.

I decided to jump in with both feet and get the o-rings I needed for everthing on top of the motor. I found a list of all the o-rings and seals and went to O-rings and Things in Fontana,Ca, they had everything but the vibralocs. I removed the intercooler pipes, turbo, pedestal and inlet. My turbo pedestal had no leaks, but the ebpv appeared to be seeping some oil out the rod port.

My turbo has a little axial play, but no sided to side. The compressor wheel has some minor chipping, probably from 170,000 miles wit K&N filter. I removed the ebpv butterfly and shaft and made a freeze plug on my lathe, because there are no
real auto parts stores left. I gutted the ebpv actuator and tapped and plugged the rod hole.

I found that clean oil was seeping from the -5 orb plug at the rear and second to rear of the passenger head. I replaced the o-rings and reassembled everything.

I started her up and no leak for about five minutes and then it started again. This time it was coming from the -5 orb fitting on the passenger side fed by the hpop. I had run out of time to work on the truck and had to use it. I topped off the oil and off I went, I drove with a light foot and kept my speed under 65. After 120 miles I was down a gallon, what a mess.

After a week I got back to it and made a tool to remove the pressure line, those are cool connectors. I had to remove the filter housing to get the bracket that covers the orb fitting. All my vibra loc sleeves were hosed. I called a local stealership , what a waste of time. I think they hire from autozone or 7 eleven. I knew I could get them from McMaster so I ordered for will call at 4:45pm the close at 6. I get in the door at 5:58 and haul *** home.

I get the sleeves in place and tighten every thing up and start her up and everything is golden until the lid on the fuel bowl starts to spray diesel all over the place. A quick tightening and a lot of wiping and I leak free.

I did a careful examination of my hpop and the driver side head and not one trace of oil seapage. Is the pass side more prone to leakage?

When I first bought this truck, I thought there is no way you can work on this thing.
But I would rather work on my PS than my wifes Expedition.

You guys ROCK !!!!!!!!!!!
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 12:50 AM
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Now thats how you do it, plenty of research and reading and kudos to you for a job well done. I know what you mean about the Expy, I have one too..
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 07:25 AM
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That was a really ''fine tooth'' operation.Congrats to ya.
I bet you will have her fixed up for a long time now.Did you replace the fuel drain orings while you were in there?They are known to leak with this ULSD.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 07:35 AM
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Excellent work.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 08:15 AM
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Great analisys and description of the steps you took. Reps
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 08:18 AM
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Good job. Think about getting the o-ring kit from Guzzle that covers all the o-rings you will need to do this kind of work. I ordered the master kit and use as needed. LINK
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 11:14 AM
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Originally Posted by big poppa
Now thats how you do it, plenty of research and reading and kudos to you for a job well done.
Ditto!

Stewart
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 01:19 PM
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Talking

I didn't do the fuel drain orings yet. I plan to rebuild the turbo and install a ww, do the ccv mod, an hpx, thermal coat my intercooler pipes, fab new intakes and crossover, 4" exhaust, new hpop hoses and a dp tuner. The braid on my hpop hoses is getting a little ragged, "Bloody fingers". I took the aluminum cover off the hot side IC tube and cut the hell out of my hands. I sat in front of the tv for an hour swabbing them with peroxide, the wife couldn't watch. When I jump in next time I'll have a pile of parts and I'll pull the hpop and fuel bowl and replace everything.

Is the 680 loctite used just on the hpop?

I saw some red residue on one of the orb fittings in the head, I think it would be difficult to clean the oil out. I tried using a syringe, I pulled about 12 ozs out and it kept rising up into the threads so I said screw it.

Another note: DON'T USE A SYRINGE WITH A REMOVABLE END, because when it falls into the valve cover you're screwed.


One last note she runs like new maybe better
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 01:56 PM
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Nice writeup!! not only content but format.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 02:12 PM
  #10  
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Excellent write-up. Good info for those trying to find and fix topside oil leaks.

Reps sent.

Now if we can just get you to use a camera.
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 02:18 PM
  #11  
N V US Lawn Care's Avatar
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Originally Posted by PaysonPSD
Excellent write-up. Good info for those trying to find and fix topside oil leaks.

Reps sent.

Now if we can just get you to use a camera.

x2 on the camera and reps...great write-up
 
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Old Feb 12, 2010 | 02:34 PM
  #12  
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My cameras don't like diesel or oil.
 
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Old Feb 13, 2010 | 05:10 PM
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I put about 60 miles on her this morning, still leak free. She runs like a raped ape. I can't wait to start doing the rest of the mods. I can't believe the difference in spool up.
 
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