I see on many ford forums that people always want to hook up their charcoal box. Basically I came up with this diagram that should be good for 99% of vehicles... Anyone care to comment on this?

Yellow has a turn on of 150 degrees, so the charcoal canister won't purge until then.
The red PVS is for the overheat protection (gives the dizzy full vacuum when over 245 degrees).

The small valve inline, from what I can see, delays vacuum advance from turning on immediately, which in theory should be helpful... I'm not 100% on this.

I also added in the air cleaner vacuum setup. I'm not sure what the 'cold weather' switch in that circuit is for, but I am in MA, so I suppose I need it, lol.

Any input this this? Should I research this and go further?

Again this isn't for any 'specific engine' or 'calibration'. Just for the guy with say, a custom engine swap, and wants to keep the charcoal box going, but doesnt have an EGR or anything like that. I figured this was the best forum to show what I've been working on in photoshop.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a72...perdiagram.jpg

 

Hi psquare, cool diagram! I would comment that it looks like you have the PCV valve running from ported vacuum, but you want it from manifold vacuum. If the PCV valve runs from ported vacuum, it will restrict circulation at idle. Also, carburetor jets are calibrated with the assumption that a PCV system is present. A PCV is a form of an accounted-for vacuum leak. When I look at a vacuum diagram and see a vacuum line coming from the carb, I read it to be ported vacuum. That could be just my interpretation, maybe the factory diagrams look that way too. So I don't know.

The air cleaner vacuum controls look correct. To answer your question, the snorkel in the factory air cleaner houses a small door operated by a vacuum motor. A bimetallic temperature switch in the air cleaner routes vacuum to this door so that it can close for cold under-hood temperatures, so that the air going in to the engine is taken from warm air wafted from the exhaust manifold, through a heat duct. This prevents carb icing. I live in Texas and get carb icing if it's wet out and below 40 or so.

Lastly, no PVS is necessary for a vacuum advance. It needs vacuum at all times. Some setups use manifold vacuum and some setups use ported vacuum for the vacuum advance. It depends on what the initial timing mark specification is.

I can't offer advice on the charcoal canister because the only vehicle I've had that used the purge valve is my truck, and the canister is long gone on that. My other vehicles use the early canister design without a purge valve.

 

The PVC valve is going to manifold/full vacuum on the carb, I didnt label it as such.. oops. This is actually a Ford vacuum diagram that I've pretty much played with and altered in photoshop, so I can't take too much credit for it.

- My question on the air cleaner circuit was the "Cold weather valve".. which is in addition to the little bi-metallic sensor. Seems some Ford setups had this, some didn't.. I'm curious what it is/does. (labeld ACL CWM)

The whole PVS system isn't 'necessary' I know. A really plain jane setup is to just go right ro ported vacuum.. However, this setup uses red PVS is for the overheat protection (gives the dizzy full vacuum when over 245 degrees... so that engine idle speed increases... circulating more coolant). This layout too was ripped from another truck.

 

Interesting! Thank you for the added knowledge. I too am curious what an additional cold weather valve does. If I had to guess, I'd say it's all one thing - the component with those two labels next to it looks very much like the small disc that mounts to the side of the air cleaner.

 

Yes yes that's it.. some air cleaners have the little bi metallic sensor 'inside' the air cleaner assembly, along with a little valve on the side. I suppose I could get one and see how it operates.

This whole thing came about because I wanted a 100% functional evap with a Holley/Edelbrock, then I figured hmm what else might be useful