Water level:
I double checked with my buddy, he said... all the way for 30 min before he could tractor it out... (worse than I first thought) as in the roof of the cab was 1' under. New news to me. He said he would sell it to me for 2k... sounds like a deal to me. I'm gonna buy her tomorrow.

We found five blown fuses under the hood, do not know what they go to, but here is the list:
POSITION AMP
-------------------------
21 Maxi unk(missing) replaced with a 50a
18 Maxi 30a
7 STD 10a
6 STD 10a
4 STD 25a

Other issue found: Buddy was a fan of violence to fix things... his seat was stuck, and would not fold forward to allow people into the back, so he tried to force it, ended up cracking the floor of the truck. Once we remove the carpet and everything, can this be welded back together, good as new?

Know for a fact one of the cylinders is not running right, wondering if it is a fuel injector gone bad from some water getting to it.

Already changed the oil, it was runny like dark cofee.

 

The floor, You should be able to weld that, no problem...and WOW that is definately underwater!!!

NEW STRATEGY... ...
Differential oil changes, Transfer case, TRANS, the whole GAMBIT


This is gonna be fun, and a mighty long list... HOWEVER, For 2K, I think I'd bite the hook!

 

I wouldn't touch that truck for 2K water damage is the absolute worst! There are alot of expensive electronics as well as a fuel system that has no tolerance for water.

 

Heck tim, for 2K you could part it out and make good cash...

 

No Disrespect intended...

I am into masochistic behavior I guess, first I would get the thing dry and running, and if the interior was too trashed... Parts GALORE, Turbo, Engine, HPOP, Trans, Front and Rear Diffs, $$$$

I would think you could easily double your $ for a little effort....

 

I will change the lubes tomorrow. My priorities on the truck are the following:

1. Roll the windows up for security: Power windows went out, with the windows in the down position.
2. Mechanical functioning of the engine
3. Electric
4. Cosmetic/Aesthetic

BTW, in the post about his idle, I described it off of his description. When I went to swap out the pedal assembly, it is a supercab/long bed. He thought supercab was standard for the 250, and that he would have a short bed because of the increased cab size compared to a 150...

 

The engine runs, and she drives, we had to drive her for about two hours over the weekend because of unforseen circumstances with my own vehicle. She just blows white smoke for the first few minutes. And sounds like she is missing on a cylinder, like the injector is bad. The turbo on her is less than a year old!

 

None taken!!

and you are right that you could be parted it out of make back your money but the question comes in whether this engine has been run with any water in it. same for the trans. Since this truck has been run down the road I would have to believe both have been run with water in them. Water in oil gall crankshaft bearings in short order! The truck itself is probably salvageable to be driven but it could have issues down the road. It has too many unknowns to give a good answer over the internet so I like to error on the reserved side.

 

You are correct on all accounts...

If he made the offer, counter him with $1500 - I'll buy it (that includes shipping right?)

 

i worked on a cummins dodge couple years ago, went through the bad flood we had up here in 2006, 04 cummins one ton 4x4 loaded, we replaced every thing that was electrical, switches , motors, wiring, etc, flushed and changed the fluids 3 times in everything, took over 2 weeks 2 get the cab dryed out( water was dash high) total price $16000, good thing for insurance

 

-Changed the tranny fluid and filter today... It was fine, no traces of water anywhere.
-Replaced the driver side interior door handle.
-Went to check power steering fluid, and the power steering fluid was not red. It was milky pink, does this mean there's water in there suspended in an emultion from the pump?

Unplugged all the v/c harness connectors and sprayed them out with electric parts cleaner as recommended. Just need to pick up a battery tomorrow to do the "unplug while running test."

Here's a question my Haynes manual lists a clogged fuel return line, damaged injectors, and bad high idle solenoid under all the symptons of "Rough idle," "white smoke," "idle smooths as rpm's increase" only problem is: I went to look for the high idle solenoid all over town, and no one had it. Is this even a part for our trucks?

The guy at the ford parts counter said my valley fuel leak is probably a leaky fuel drain assembly, and the most common problem for rough idle, was the harnesses in the valve covers going bad, any thoughts?

Thanks again.

 

I know a fella that has a peterbilt gravel truck that (long story) ended up in a lake he changed all the fluids and some electrical stuff and it ran fine but since then he has had nothing but problems I think as well that water damage is not worth investing in even if the price is rite

 

Read the blue

 

"Went to check power steering fluid, and the power steering fluid was not red. It was milky pink, does this mean there's water in there suspended in an emultion from the pump?" = Most Definately

Here's a question my Haynes manual lists a clogged fuel return line, damaged injectors, and bad high idle solenoid under all the symptons of "Rough idle," "white smoke," "idle smooths as rpm's increase" only problem is: I went to look for the high idle solenoid all over town, and no one had it. Is this even a part for our trucks? = No sir unless I am blind mis-understand how our trucks work...

"The guy at the ford parts counter said my valley fuel leak is probably a leaky fuel drain assembly" = Nope, Pretty sure it is the fuel pump from your description of the leak and where it originates... If it were the Fuel Filter drain assembly... You would see it near the filter and the front of the block

"and the most common problem for rough idle, was the harnesses in the valve covers going bad, any thoughts?" = That or injectors

 

When I inspected all the plugs I saw no signs of burnt pins. So can we rule out the harness?

Tomorrow I will do the "run while unplugging check" and see what that yields.