Where does this wire go? (Pics)
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Where does this wire go? (Pics)
Hey guys,
I have a 1991 Ford F250 w/ a 351W. After replacing the IAC and checking for vaccum leaks (checked throttle cables too) my truck still idles at 1800 or more RPM. Because of this high idle it slamms into revese (I've posted before on this). My question is that someone who has the same truck as me said to replace the engine ground with a thick wire (6 gauge or so) and the truck would idle correct because the ECM and all of the sensors might not have a good ground if the Engine Ground is bad. I included pictures of what i think the engine ground is, as well as a ground wire comming off of my battery tray that goes to nothing (the bolt is broken). Also, the EEC Test connector has a wire pulled (the eec test pin you ground to check codes) and is not hooked up.
My question is, does the EEC test pin wire need to be put into the connector (i think its just to protect it), and where does the ground in my first pictre connect. And last, should i possibly change the engine ground wire (if that is it in the picture)
Thanks guys
Ryan
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I have a 1991 Ford F250 w/ a 351W. After replacing the IAC and checking for vaccum leaks (checked throttle cables too) my truck still idles at 1800 or more RPM. Because of this high idle it slamms into revese (I've posted before on this). My question is that someone who has the same truck as me said to replace the engine ground with a thick wire (6 gauge or so) and the truck would idle correct because the ECM and all of the sensors might not have a good ground if the Engine Ground is bad. I included pictures of what i think the engine ground is, as well as a ground wire comming off of my battery tray that goes to nothing (the bolt is broken). Also, the EEC Test connector has a wire pulled (the eec test pin you ground to check codes) and is not hooked up.
My question is, does the EEC test pin wire need to be put into the connector (i think its just to protect it), and where does the ground in my first pictre connect. And last, should i possibly change the engine ground wire (if that is it in the picture)
Thanks guys
Ryan
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Originally Posted by 86caprirs
1st pic: Frame to engine
2nd pic: Engine to frame
3rd pic: You will need to get a proper female spade connector for that.
2nd pic: Engine to frame
3rd pic: You will need to get a proper female spade connector for that.
Does the eec test wire need to be hooked up?
Thanks
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Quad Cities, IA
Anywhere that's bare metal. Oh, and clean off the rust/dirt/oil/ect. off the area you'll be connecting to, otherwise you'll not be getting a good solid ground.
I usually put a dab of silicone sealer over it when I've got it all together, so it won't get as much dirt and moisture on it later.
I usually put a dab of silicone sealer over it when I've got it all together, so it won't get as much dirt and moisture on it later.
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Joined: Jan 2001
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From: Rural Florida Panhandle
The engine ground should be connected between the engine block and frame, with good clean metal connections at both ends. Also, inspect that braided ground cable for corrosion. Sometimes they can become corroded within the braid and lose much of their conductivity.
The eec connector is as you suggested, not needed except for testing, just protect it from the elements.
The eec connector is as you suggested, not needed except for testing, just protect it from the elements.
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Originally Posted by BroncoChris88
What happend here to have those three wires broken off?
The engine ground (2nd pic) is not broken, i just wondered if a larger gauge would help my idle problem (any takers on that one???)....The EEC wire just broke when i tried to get coeds....and the 1st pic...just bolt her on where i can reach and find clean metal???
Thanks guys
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From: Belle Mead NJ
I had a bad ground, and I got slow crank. Sometimes none. The stock battery to frame to engine block is 1 wire. I had to get 2 from the parts store to make mine. The battery to the frame, then the frame 2 the block. Its been good since then. I dont have that braded wire on mine. Wierd
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From: Belle Mead NJ
I went out and snapped some pics of how mine goes. The only braided one I have goes from the upper intake to the hood hinge. I didnt take a pic of that one. This one is the battery going to the frame.
This one is where it hooks up to the frame then goes 2 the block.
And this is it on the block. My stud was all rusted so I just used a bolt.
This one is where it hooks up to the frame then goes 2 the block.
And this is it on the block. My stud was all rusted so I just used a bolt.
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thanks,
i'm going to run 4 gauge like you have it run. So did you not use the ground location that is under the batt. box then and just went staight from batt to block???
Looks good
Thanks again man
Ryan
i'm going to run 4 gauge like you have it run. So did you not use the ground location that is under the batt. box then and just went staight from batt to block???
Looks good
Thanks again man
Ryan
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From: Belle Mead NJ
Thats how my truck was setup stock. Ford used a 1 peice cable that hooked from the battery to the frame, then to the block. The 1st pic is the frame rail if you look down from the #1 spark plug. My cable wasnt connected under the battery box.