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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 06:45 PM
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how do you polish?

hello, im looking at a 56 F-350 with a flat 6 in it, and its a on the rusty side and for 400 bucks i dont think i can go wrong, the guy said all i would have to do is put a new battery in it and clean the carb up and take the fuel out of the tank and it should be good as new. but any way i wanna make it a project,
theres a flat rack on the back and the cab is surface rust from what i have seen in pic's i havent looked at it in person at all yet.
i wanna get the bumper polshied, i have sanders and all the goodies i would need i just dont know how to do it.
is it start with fine sand paper and get all teh rust off then fo to a super fine and then get to the cottin spinning wheels dont know what hey are and use polshing goop..?
thanks.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 04:43 PM
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Begin with a heavy duty rubbing compound, steel wool pad and small brass brissell brush. The process may take a little while this way or it may not. After you think the majority of the spots are cleaned that sand paper can not get to and the rest is alright. After this has been established you can begin using finer grits and eventually using a polisher n light duty compound.

I hope it turns out great!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 07:00 PM
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I worked in a metallurgical lab for most if my life and did this daily for looking at samples under the microscope. The proper way to polish steel is to start with as course as needed. Whether it's 100 grit or 36 grit. You sand each grit in a different direction till the previous grit hatch disappears. I step down like this, 120, 240, 320, 400, 600, (optional 1000, 1500, 2000) all wet, this keeps the surface clean. Then you can start using polishing. This is where I switched over to diamond paste. The finer you sand the less buffing you will need.

If this bumper is not SS, You will be wasting your time. Polished surfaces rust very quickly from just the moisture in the air. You will need to clear coat as you go, or spray on a inhibitor. It would be better having it stripped and tripled plated, Cu, Ni, Cr.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 08:56 PM
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i didnt get the truck the guy listed it on ebay, but im still gonna use this polishing on my atv stuff, what about aulimunim? i just us a light paper ro take the faxtory black powder coat off and now i think i just need some finer but i have some cotton type things for my dremal also.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 09:23 PM
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With soft metal you have to be very careful, they cut and gouge very easly. Normally you use alumina paste to polish it. Start with 320 or finer for Al. But you can use Baking soda paste, tooth paste works good too. Once you get it pretty close you can use buffing compounds for soft metals at low speeds. You want to use a soft backing, and something to distribute the force other wise it will have flat spots.

Powder coat is a very hard, good coating, so you may have to play with what grit work best. But in any case always work it wet, this keeps the cutting surface from loading up. If round pipe, look at getting some rolls of emery cloth/sanding rolls. I have these in 1" and 2" wide. Then make a complete turn with the cloth then spin the tape on the surface by pulling 1 end at a time (slight angle) to keep good contact.

You will need to apply a clear coat to prevent oxidation of Al. If connected to steel, it will naturally sacrafice it self to protect the steel. So keeping it and isolated from the steel will be a chore. That is the reason it is powder coated, holds up well.
 
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Old Feb 18, 2008 | 09:35 PM
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ok, i just use a light sand paper and put it on my dremal and sanded it down and took all the sharp angles out to make them mostly smooth all around but i still have some spots to get at, i'll have to try the tooth paste, matter what kind?
 
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 08:15 AM
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No, Does not matter as long as it's paste. Tooth paste is a very fine abrasive. Tooth paste is real good for plastic too, like watch faces. You can also use it to remove the discoloration out of clear lens that have turned yellow, head light housings.

If you got a large surface you may want to look at the buffing compounds that are stick form. There are like 5 different one, from a very course to very fine. They are for specific surfaces, like the white one works best on plastic and soft metals, where the black one works best on steel. I had one that was course enough to have sparks coming off my buffing wheel, just like a grinder.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2008 | 09:27 PM
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ok i'm gonna have to try the tooth past tomorrow night or i'll run up and grab the stuff and do it to night.
i have 2 honda enblems off a old 3 wheeler that i have to get polished, im not sure what kind of metal it is but its not really all that hard.

then i have bars tree clamps, and other goodies also, i'll get some pic's some time of what im doing.
 
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