Upper ball joints
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Senior User
Joined: Mar 2007
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Upper ball joints
2001 F150 4.6, 67,000 miles.
So my truck failed inspection the other day on the grounds that the two upper ball joints were too lose. The deflection was apparently mroe than 1/4 inch. I'm a wanna-be mechanic (going to start taking classes in the fall) and I'm thinking about doing the work myself. According to my Haynes manual, which I've come to realize isn't very useful, I am supposed to replace the upper control arms to replace the ball joints. The directions are not that clear (damn haynes) and I'm debating whether to go forward with the repair myself or take it in to the shop. Is this a project that I should try? I try to do as much work on my baby as possible. Does anyone have a link to good directions? Looks like I have to do both sides in the front of the truck.
So my truck failed inspection the other day on the grounds that the two upper ball joints were too lose. The deflection was apparently mroe than 1/4 inch. I'm a wanna-be mechanic (going to start taking classes in the fall) and I'm thinking about doing the work myself. According to my Haynes manual, which I've come to realize isn't very useful, I am supposed to replace the upper control arms to replace the ball joints. The directions are not that clear (damn haynes) and I'm debating whether to go forward with the repair myself or take it in to the shop. Is this a project that I should try? I try to do as much work on my baby as possible. Does anyone have a link to good directions? Looks like I have to do both sides in the front of the truck.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,155
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From: Southern Louisiana
This project is too easy to pay someone else to do it. The upper ball joints are pressed into the control arm and not replaceable. Moog sells control arms that you can replace just the ball joint with a Moog joint. So the first time you change the upper ball joints, yes, you will have to change the control arm as well. If you decide to go with Moog parts, next time you will be able to only change the balljoint. If you go with any other manufacturer you will have to change the whole control arm again. I would rather change the whole control arm than press ball joints in and out, easier and for the length of time these last, money is not the issue.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,098
Likes: 11
From: Minnesota
If it's like my 98, not hard to do. Mark the top bolts before you remove them and try to get things back together as close as you can. Then go get an alignment as soon as you can. Bottoms are tougher, they should be checked also, usually they get bad before the tops.
Spotty..
Spotty..
Cargo Master
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 26
"If you go with any other manufacturer you will have to change the whole control arm again."
If the aftermarket ones you get have ball joints secured by circlips they are replaceable even if that isn't listed. Look at them before purchase. Mine were not Moog (they were from Advance Auto, me bad for not jotting down the maker) but had identical ball joints to the seperate lower ball joints I purchased.
If the aftermarket ones you get have ball joints secured by circlips they are replaceable even if that isn't listed. Look at them before purchase. Mine were not Moog (they were from Advance Auto, me bad for not jotting down the maker) but had identical ball joints to the seperate lower ball joints I purchased.
Postmaster
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 4,155
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From: Southern Louisiana
Originally Posted by monckywrench
"If you go with any other manufacturer you will have to change the whole control arm again."
If the aftermarket ones you get have ball joints secured by circlips they are replaceable even if that isn't listed. Look at them before purchase. Mine were not Moog (they were from Advance Auto, me bad for not jotting down the maker) but had identical ball joints to the seperate lower ball joints I purchased.
If the aftermarket ones you get have ball joints secured by circlips they are replaceable even if that isn't listed. Look at them before purchase. Mine were not Moog (they were from Advance Auto, me bad for not jotting down the maker) but had identical ball joints to the seperate lower ball joints I purchased.
Posting Guru
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,351
Likes: 8
Note that changing these F150 upper control arms, when you need to replace the ball joints, generally means you're also replacing the important inner bushings at the same time. TRW sells them all assembled & RTG.
I thought Haynes did an adequate job splainin' it. If you think Haynes "isn't very useful" ask your FORD dealer if you can read their service manual or if a friendly local mechanic will let you see their aftermarket CD instructions.
Beware that "more than 1/4 inch" is an awful lot of slop & that pulling the taper pins out might be a challenge. Ball joints that are severely worn can pull apart w/o warning, collapsing that corner, w/loss of control. The rule of thumb I grew up with was that; any detectable free play in a ball joint failed it.
I thought Haynes did an adequate job splainin' it. If you think Haynes "isn't very useful" ask your FORD dealer if you can read their service manual or if a friendly local mechanic will let you see their aftermarket CD instructions.
Beware that "more than 1/4 inch" is an awful lot of slop & that pulling the taper pins out might be a challenge. Ball joints that are severely worn can pull apart w/o warning, collapsing that corner, w/loss of control. The rule of thumb I grew up with was that; any detectable free play in a ball joint failed it.
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 642
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From: Olathe, KS
Changing these would be a good one to cut your teeth on. You biggest challenge will be with bumping the ball joint loose from the knuckle. A fork will make it easier. Preload against the ball joint also helps. Truck on stands and tire off. (A-arms boltls/ Ball joint nut broken loose) Jack under the lower arm for control of susp. Loosen the ball joint nut by 1/4 in or so, then lower the jack until the upper arm is against the stop. This will put a pull on the ball joint in your favor. Then bump ball joint with the fork to pop apart. (The nut was left on to keep it all in place). Many times just a bump with a hammer will release it. Jack the assembly back up enough to relieve the arm, pull remaining bolts and remove. oh, it is best to back of the torsion bars before taking off the arm. That way you are only handing the weight of the steel.
Mark your adjustment as noted, but expect to do an alignment regardless.
Mark your adjustment as noted, but expect to do an alignment regardless.
