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Brakes won't bleed

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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 02:48 PM
  #1  
mahanson's Avatar
mahanson
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From: San Antonio
Brakes won't bleed

After replacing the steering gear on my 72 F100 (2wd, all power), I had no brakes. Don't know why, but the front resevouir on my rusty master cylinder was empty. I refilled and went to the right rear to bleed. Nothing but a small flow...it wasn't really bleeding. The level isn't going down... Is my master cylinder just too gunky and clogged?

Also...is there a trick to bleeding the fronts" I can't seem to to get a wrench on the bleeder with all the brackets and stuff...not enough clearance.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:16 PM
  #2  
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mhg
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From: savannah,ga
when a system is run dry it can be slow
to get the air out and start good fluid flow
it is easier to use a vacuum pump to pull the fluid thru
the screws on the front are easier to loosen
with a deep socket first
when you get it flowing be sure to bleed it until all the old fluid is out
if one is available a pressure system is better
just not some thing everyone can afford to have around
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 11:02 AM
  #3  
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rebocardo
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From: Atlanta GA
> Don't know why, but the front resevouir on my rusty master cylinder was empty.

There is probably a valve with a shut off that needs to be reset to properly bleed the system, otherwise it will keep the rear line shut off. It is on the frame under the master. On yours I think it looks like a round button to pull out, but, check the 67-72 forum. It has been a few years since I did mine.

A master for this vehicle is only $12-$18 rebuilt from Advance. I would replace it if not fairly new. Reason being is putting the pedal to the metal when the master is empty can damage the master and cause a leak that will drive you crazy to fit. Plus, the master itself might be leaking if there was no obvious rear leak.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 07:24 PM
  #4  
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mahanson
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Repaced the master cylinder and it bled like a...well let's not get gross.

I still have a problem with the fronts...can't seem to get any kind of socket or tool onto the nipple.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 10:33 AM
  #5  
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blue beast
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From: sunny fla sometimes windy
If the res and the lines are rusty I would take the lines off the slaves and from the
dist block and blow it out with air you could have some rust blocking the flow. Also
how are the rubber lines they can collapse and or swell under pressure and should
be changed sooner then most people do it. You would be amazed how well your brakes
will respond and the power they have if your old rubber lines are swelling when you
hit the brakes!! I use the mity vac pump to bleed my brakes I pull the old fluid out of
the res and refill with fresh fluid then suction the brakes ensuring that I have fresh
fluid throughout not a crappy mix of old and new. You can also use it to pull a quart
of tranny fluid out every oilchange to ensure you have fresh fluid and additives in that
expensive tranny, swapping power steering fluid is easy, Rear end lube without disturbing the gasket, checking vac operated components, checking motor vac level
to gauge the health of the motor. I should be getting paid for advertising it as much
as I do I don't know how I got by without it for so long!! No more telling someone to
pump,pump hold and then having them let up when the valve is still open!! Sometimes
it will almost pull fluid out too fast and you have to be quick on the res level refills!!
 
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Old Jan 30, 2008 | 11:33 AM
  #6  
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rebocardo
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From: Atlanta GA
The original were SAE fittings, the replacements are probably metric and require a 8 mm wrench or socket.
 
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