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hard shifting

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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 07:41 AM
  #1  
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hard shifting

good moring, got a 94 f250 4x4 idi diesel .the truck shifts hard in all gears .took it to a tranny shop they said it was the fipl sensor. where is it located and can i do this myself .is this a dealer part and how much are they ?thanks ,love this site.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 08:28 AM
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dakotajeep
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From: Baldwin, ND
For sure you can do this yourself. Its about as easy as changing a fuse and then you have to set it. The part is available at NAPA. I think I paid $52.12 for mine just a few weeks ago.

This is what I have been using to set my FIPL:

FIPL is the large item on the drivers side of the IP with 3 wires.....

A/T - E40D FIPL Sensor Trouble Shooting & Adjustment

TECHNICAL BULLETIN # 186A

TRANSMISSION: E4OD

SUBJECT: FIPL troubleshooting & adjustment procedures

APPLICATION: Ford

DATE: Jan 1994

E4OD
FIPL Trouble Shooting & Adjustment Procedures (Diesel Applications Only)




Poor transmission performance and/or premature transmission failure may be caused by a defective Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL) sensor, or sensor signal. The sensor is located on the Fuel Injection Pump (Figure 1) and is used to inform the Transmission Control Unit Assembly (computer) of throttle position.

Ford Motor Company recommends that the FIPL be checked or replaced every 50,000 miles. However, it is possible for a FIPL sensor to fail at less than 50,000 miles. Therefore, it is highly recommended that you install a new "upgraded" FIPL sensor when a transmission overhaul is performed on any diesel applications.

You should also be aware that early design FIPL sensors are not as desirable as late design sensors.

Another potential concern is that the wiring harness leading to the FIPL sensor may be broken or shorted to ground. Closely inspect the harness where it is routed across the top of the engine to the FIPL sensor. The natural vibration of a diesel engine can easily wear through the wiring insulation where it contacts the engine, brackets, etc.

Note The voltage specification for signal return (item 2, page 2) was incorrect on the original bulletin. Remove original # 186 from your files and replace it with this revised bulletin. # 186A.

Note For testing and adjustment information see following information.

TESTING THE FIPL SENSOR

Note During these tests the negative lead of the voltmeter MUST be connected directly to the negative battery post and the computer and FIPL harnesses must not be disconnected.



1. Wire A is reference voltage sent to the sensor from the computer ORANGE/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be approximately 5 volts.

2. Wire B is the ground path from the FIPL sensor to the computer BLACK/WHITE

TEST: With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF voltage should be volts?? or less.

3. Wire C is the throttle opening signal sent to the computer from the FIPL sensor . TEST With the KEY ON, ENGINE OFF and the throttle at idle position, voltage should be approximately 1.2 volts. With The throttle fully open, voltage should be approximately 4.5 volts. ORANGE/WHITE (CENTER WIRE)


The sweep from 1.2 volts at idle to approximately 4.5 volts at full throttle should be smooth. A meter with a snapshot or min/max capture mode is useful to catch intermittent "opens".

If the previously described range cannot be attained, FIPL adjustment can be achieved by rotating the sensor (on its bracket) one way or the other until the voltage values are satisfactory.


.................................................. ................................................

DIESEL FIPL SENSOR INFO
DATE 1992
REASON
Early Black FIPL has High Failure Rate
RECOMMENDATION
Always replace the black colored early FIPL or any colored FIPL having 60 thousand or more miles with the late gray colored FIPL.
PART NUMBER
F2TZ-9B989-C


This is where the FIPL is located. IT is the gray sensor with the black harness plugged into it. For small adjustments you can just loosen the TORX screws that attach the FIPL sensor to the bracket. For larger adjustments (which shouldnt be necessary) you can loosen the bracket screws which hold the bracket to the IP. You only need to be concerned with the middle wire for setting it properly. I was told to slide a paper clip down next to the midle wire to make getting the setting easier. Oh, and you will need a voltmeter.

Hope this pic helps.

Thad


 

Last edited by dakotajeep; Jan 26, 2008 at 08:31 AM.
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 09:10 AM
  #3  
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thanks for the reply,im gonna look at this today ill let you know how it worked out ,again thanks
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 01:01 PM
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The old grey ones were known for failing early.
They could not survive the vibrations of the Diesel engine.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 01:20 PM
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just got back from napa,had to order part not in till monday.is this also called a throttle position sensor?
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 02:35 PM
  #6  
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dakotajeep
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From: Baldwin, ND
Originally Posted by bleedin blue
just got back from napa,had to order part not in till monday.is this also called a throttle position sensor?
Yes, it is listed as a TPS but more specitfically it is a Fuel Injection Pump Lever (FIPL). I had to wait a day for mine too.

Thad
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 04:54 PM
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well i guess i ordered the right part .thanks again ,hopefully this will end my tranny woes.
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 05:02 PM
  #8  
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dakotajeep
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From: Baldwin, ND
Make sure when you are setting the FIPL use DC and not AC like I did. It caused me months of headaches trying to figure out what was wrong.....just got it straight today.....but you are probably more electronically savvy than me, so you probably already had that covered!!!!

Thad
 
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 08:59 AM
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twfs
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Hi had the same problem with mine replaced it and set it like mentioned above and I think it shifts to late now. Also acts like it has a lockup tourque converter and when it shifts to 3rd it almost instantly locks the converter where the rpms really drop and then goes ahead and hits od fine. any ideas on what might be causing that. Thought about setting it at 1 volts at idle to see if it shifts sooner but am thinking there might be something else wrong by the way the converter is acting. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated thanks.
 
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Old Apr 21, 2008 | 10:32 PM
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archangel
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If he only removes the Torx screws, there is no adjustment as the screw holes are not slotted.

There is an adjustment spacer block you need to set it as well.
I made one for my own use by brazing a .015 feeler to a piece of square stock, and then later by machining one to the correct size out of a single piece of over sized square stock.

And as long as the mount was set correctly, he should just be able to just screw it in and go.
 
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