leaky intake
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 970
Likes: 3
Your going to have to pull the intake clean everything up install new gaskets and RTV
on the ends. Because of the weight of the manifold it would be best to remove the hood and lower it into place with a comealong or hoist. There is neither room enough for two guys or place to put your feet to do it any other way, and be happy with out come. Besides all that your back will appreciate it. Kotzy
on the ends. Because of the weight of the manifold it would be best to remove the hood and lower it into place with a comealong or hoist. There is neither room enough for two guys or place to put your feet to do it any other way, and be happy with out come. Besides all that your back will appreciate it. Kotzy
Fleet Owner
Joined: Jun 1999
Posts: 24,552
Likes: 74
From: Creedmoor, North Carolina
Yup, It is an all day job. I recommend getting Felpro cork valve cover gaskets and use RTV for the intake, a 2" piece of new 5/8" heater hose, have some 50/50 coolant mix ready. You can use an engine cherry picker without removing the hood.
While the valve covers are off take them to a bench to make sure all of the bolt areas are beaten out flat. Use some Indian brand shellac on the cork, and only tighten them strong snugg, use a 1/4" drive socket with it out on the fingers.
John
While the valve covers are off take them to a bench to make sure all of the bolt areas are beaten out flat. Use some Indian brand shellac on the cork, and only tighten them strong snugg, use a 1/4" drive socket with it out on the fingers.
John
Elder User
Joined: May 2004
Posts: 648
Likes: 0
From: sanford
[QUOTE=jowilker]
While the valve covers are off take them to a bench to make sure all of the bolt areas are beaten out flat. Use some Indian brand shellac on the cork, and only tighten them strong snugg, use a 1/4" drive socket with it out on the fingers.
I have to replace my V/C gaskets.I was thinking about using rubber gaskets with black rtv.I was thinking cork is poreus (SP?) and eventually allows oil to seap thru
While the valve covers are off take them to a bench to make sure all of the bolt areas are beaten out flat. Use some Indian brand shellac on the cork, and only tighten them strong snugg, use a 1/4" drive socket with it out on the fingers.
I have to replace my V/C gaskets.I was thinking about using rubber gaskets with black rtv.I was thinking cork is poreus (SP?) and eventually allows oil to seap thru
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
The cork is impregnated with binder to make it impermeable. The trick is to not over tighten the cork gaskets. This is what causes leaks.
Use felpro perma torques on the intake. Dab of RTV in the corners and around the water passages and a bead accross the front and back of the block mating surface.
Torque in the order shown on the instructions. Use a torque wrench.
Also watch for coolant dropping down into the block as you take the intake off. It happens every time. Change the oil when done before starting the engine.
To remove the intake you allso need to remove the valve train and pushrods as they pass through the intake. Remove these and mark carefully so they go back in the same position. Take the bolts out equally on the rocker shafts or they can bend.
Reverse order everything once the intake is seated. Torque to specs.
Garbz
Use felpro perma torques on the intake. Dab of RTV in the corners and around the water passages and a bead accross the front and back of the block mating surface.
Torque in the order shown on the instructions. Use a torque wrench.
Also watch for coolant dropping down into the block as you take the intake off. It happens every time. Change the oil when done before starting the engine.
To remove the intake you allso need to remove the valve train and pushrods as they pass through the intake. Remove these and mark carefully so they go back in the same position. Take the bolts out equally on the rocker shafts or they can bend.
Reverse order everything once the intake is seated. Torque to specs.
Garbz
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 8,062
Likes: 35
From: Central Oregon
I agree with above, The only thoing that I do differant is when I seak the gaskets to the block and head side, I will set the intake down on the gaskets, without sealer and let the gaskets dry in place, then lift intake and apply sealer to the top side of the gaskets and bolt intake down.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 3,014
Likes: 91
From: Concord, CA
What I did on my recently swapped intakes, a 74 egr to a '66, was clean up the mating surfaces well. Then put 4 studs into eack corner of the block. Layed the intake gaskets and let them set up for an hour, this included the tough to keep in place end ones. Placed a dab of RTV at the four corners, some sealant on the intake side of the gaskets, placed the intake over the studs and slowly lowered into place. Torqued and voila no leaks of any kind.
Elder User
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 970
Likes: 3
The best way to hold these or any gasket in place is with a couple of spots on the casting of 3M weather strip adhesive. Put the gasket in place against it, pull it off let it set up for a minute or two and put it back in place. The stuff is nothing more than contact cement, but it a great assembly aid, sometimes for even more than gaskets.
I still think getting rid of the factory end seals and gong with RTV is the way to go. Kotzy
I still think getting rid of the factory end seals and gong with RTV is the way to go. Kotzy
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