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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 09:36 AM
  #16  
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I think that your talking about final charge it supposed to be good for 300,000 miles.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 09:50 AM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
I think that your talking about final charge it supposed to be good for 300,000 miles.
NOT THAT IT MATTERS, BUT I BELIEVE IT WAS ONLY 300,00I IF I USED IT OFF ROAD, REGARDLESS, ANY THOUGHTS,?shoot, sorry about the caps
 
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 10:56 AM
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I was going to use it when I flushed mine this summer but when I went to wally world they were out . I think quite a few members use it with good results.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:05 AM
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Originally Posted by 1996pwrstrk
I was going to use it when I flushed mine this summer but when I went to wally world they were out . I think quite a few members use it with good results.
Thats good to hear, none of the parts stores around here had anything when I went looking, except Pep Boys.. There were no other options...
 
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:09 AM
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Final charge is a 50/50 mix I think. If you have a big truck shop close by get the Rotella ELC. It is a concentrate so YOU are the one to add water to it. That way you can make the mix what you need. It was about the same price as buying 2 gallons of the Final Charge if not a bit cheaper. Which ever one you use make sure you flush all of the old coolant out, or you may have some problems. Good luck.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2008 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by totin_tools
Final charge is a 50/50 mix I think. If you have a big truck shop close by get the Rotella ELC. It is a concentrate so YOU are the one to add water to it. That way you can make the mix what you need. It was about the same price as buying 2 gallons of the Final Charge if not a bit cheaper. Which ever one you use make sure you flush all of the old coolant out, or you may have some problems. Good luck.
Thanks, yeah I wont lie to ya, i am crossing my fingers I get all of the old stuff out, but as always, crossing you fingers dont do much for ya..
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 04:35 PM
  #22  
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Arrrrghgggghhhhhhhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!

WELL, THE LEAK WAS A SIMPLE WATER PUMP ( YEAH RIGHT) FOUR BOLTS ON THE FAN, AND ONE OF THE F'N THING'S IS STRIPPED. FOR THE LIFE OF ME, CAN NOT FIGURE OUT WHY THE TRUCK PULLS TO THE LEFT WHEN i HIT THE BRAKES, TIRED OF TRYING, STARTING TO THROW MONEY AT IT. REPLACED THE CALIPER, LEFT THE BLEED SCREW LOOSE SO THE THING CAN START TO GRAVITY BLLED, WHILE I BLEED FROM THE F'N FAN THAT MY FINGER LIKES TO SCRAPE ACCROSS.........

okay, starting to get dark out, buttoning up the garage, grabbing a beer or 8, and holding my kids for a few..
 
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Old Jan 26, 2008 | 07:14 PM
  #23  
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Just go rent the tool for the fan removal. It makes it sooo much easier. On the brakes you might want to check the right side. It might need to be bled or the caliper isnt right. Check the slide pins also and upgrade them if you havent already ( on both sides ).
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 02:19 PM
  #24  
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tHE END IS HERE

Final cap on the weekend. Well, the first coolant leak that I had planned on repairing was repaired last week, yeah, I wanted to do it in the shop, but it was getting bad, so I did it in the driveway. I swapped coolant with the final charge. The fun part, I calle all of my regular parts stores, only one place had my lower hose and caliper.

Drove for a day or so, started smeeling coolant again, what do ya know, water pump. Started calling around again, only one place had my water pump, pep boys, 147.00 no core. They didnt have a serpitine belt, auto zone did.

Well you might have read how the water pump went yesterday, but today, it was much nicer, went to work, got a big old Cresent wrench, had a strap wrench, it was a beutiful thing, until I tried to ge tthe old thermostat off, do you know I brokes a 1/2 slot blade trying to pry that thold stat out? Well, figured I would run to autozone and get the stat while I got the serpitine, they dont stock the stat, I figured I would get on the forum here with the blackberry and get the part number for teh 203*, but wasnt getting any internet service. So Autozone sold me my sepitine and called Murrays for me. They had the thermostat, drove over, picked it up, but they didnt have the O ring.. went to work, got an O ring, installed, tightened all of the intercooler boots, wrapped up under the hood, wife was shopping, so I installed the GPR LED, she came home, bleed the brakes, went for a ride, no pulling, no leaks, wondered how long before the GPR light would take before it went off, but all in all, done.. Just poured a half travel mug of coffee, and have baileys....

Kwik, I think Jinxed me LOL
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 04:11 PM
  #25  
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Hope they got you the right thermostat. Make sure that it was the proper long stem height, like the one from dieselsite.
WHY A LONG STEM AND NOT A SHORT STEM?
Although International still uses a 203o thermostat in some applications and that thermostat is available at most auto parts stores, it is the wrong part for the 1996 - 2003 Powerstroke. DO NOT USE THIS! It has a shorter shaft and will not shut off the internal pump bypass. This will cause inaccurate coolant flow direction through the engine. This IH version thermostat mentioned is available by calling us.

The thermostat in the Powerstroke not only controls operating temperatures, but properly directs the flow of coolant through the engine. As the thermostat opens, it proportionally closes the bypass. With the thermostat fully open, the bypass is mostly closed, and vice versa. With the International (Pre-96 Ford) thermostat, this cannot be controlled properly because of the shorter bypass stem. The shorter stem of the IH(pre-96 Ford) thermostat allows the thermostat to be fully open while the bypass is fully open. This means the coolant can travel in any direction available -- whatever direction it chooses. It can either travel through the radiator or simply make the shorter, less restrictive path back through the front of the engine. This will cause uncontrolled overheating in the back cylinders of the block, with absolutely no signs of danger showing on the water temperature gauge in the cab. It is possible that the back of the engine can have no coolant flow at all yet the thermometer in the outlet of the water pump shows all to be normal. Multiple things can happen at this point. Cylinders can seize, freeze plugs can fall out and other normal symptoms of an overheating engine may occur. Worst case is a blown motor and it won't be covered under warranty.

We know the warranty departments and engineers at Ford have verified engine loss due to the short stem thermostats in previous cases where people were sticking into their trucks to increase their operating temperatures. As soon as they see the short shaft thermostat -it's your problem. Our 203o thermostat will not encounter these problems! It's designed to work as the OEM unit did WITH the long stem for bypass protection.

Would hate to see more unfortune come your way friend
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 04:22 PM
  #26  
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Wow, thank you,I have read in several cases around this forum to do the 203 change, first, did not know that the stem length was a difference, but I am now a heck of alot happier knowing I didnt find it. thank you Ryan
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 08:10 PM
  #27  
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HighOctane, you must go on Dieselsite way too much! You sound EXACTLY like their ad!
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 01:21 PM
  #28  
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that my friend is what copy/paste is for. With my typing skills that would have taken me all damn day! I know most already know the above info from last post, but it never hurts to reiterate when it may prevent serious dammage.
 
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Old Jan 28, 2008 | 01:47 PM
  #29  
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I knew, I just had to pimp you up
 
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