400 in 1972 F100
#16
Yes, you should degree the cam. From what I can tell it has a dynamic CR of 6.2:1 with the cam 'straight up', and about 6.0:1 with it 4 degrees retarded. That is extremely low, and the power will not be good. I found a Crane cam, that is similar, but I need a better spec to analyze correctly. The Lobe Center Angle and the Intake Center Angle is important.
You can look at the timing set to see if it has three keyways. One keyway will line up with a tooth, the others will be offset from a tooth to one side or the other. Straight up timing will be the keyway that lines up with a tooth.
You can look at the timing set to see if it has three keyways. One keyway will line up with a tooth, the others will be offset from a tooth to one side or the other. Straight up timing will be the keyway that lines up with a tooth.
#17
Originally Posted by danlee
Yes, you should degree the cam. From what I can tell it has a dynamic CR of 6.2:1 with the cam 'straight up', and about 6.0:1 with it 4 degrees retarded. That is extremely low, and the power will not be good. I found a Crane cam, that is similar, but I need a better spec to analyze correctly. The Lobe Center Angle and the Intake Center Angle is important.
You can look at the timing set to see if it has three keyways. One keyway will line up with a tooth, the others will be offset from a tooth to one side or the other. Straight up timing will be the keyway that lines up with a tooth.
You can look at the timing set to see if it has three keyways. One keyway will line up with a tooth, the others will be offset from a tooth to one side or the other. Straight up timing will be the keyway that lines up with a tooth.
#18
With Aussie or aftermarket aluminum heads, it will be much better, but without a good cam spec, I can't say for sure. You could wind up with too much dynamic compression.
Before you change heads, you should also check the pistons to see if they are dished and what the piston to deck clearance is when the piston is at top dead center.
I wonder if there is a way to measure the combustion space through the spark plug hole. I have never heard of that being done, but it might be possible with the right fluid.
Before you change heads, you should also check the pistons to see if they are dished and what the piston to deck clearance is when the piston is at top dead center.
I wonder if there is a way to measure the combustion space through the spark plug hole. I have never heard of that being done, but it might be possible with the right fluid.
#19
Originally Posted by danlee
With Aussie or aftermarket aluminum heads, it will be much better, but without a good cam spec, I can't say for sure. You could wind up with too much dynamic compression.
Before you change heads, you should also check the pistons to see if they are dished and what the piston to deck clearance is when the piston is at top dead center.
I wonder if there is a way to measure the combustion space through the spark plug hole. I have never heard of that being done, but it might be possible with the right fluid.
Before you change heads, you should also check the pistons to see if they are dished and what the piston to deck clearance is when the piston is at top dead center.
I wonder if there is a way to measure the combustion space through the spark plug hole. I have never heard of that being done, but it might be possible with the right fluid.
#20
Ahhhh, but someone DOES make aftermarket pistons for them... A member from this site has what you need. www.tmeyerinc.com
I wouldn't go anywhere else for 351m and 400 parts.
I wouldn't go anywhere else for 351m and 400 parts.
#21
Originally Posted by trinogt
Ahhhh, but someone DOES make aftermarket pistons for them... A member from this site has what you need. www.tmeyerinc.com
I wouldn't go anywhere else for 351m and 400 parts.
I wouldn't go anywhere else for 351m and 400 parts.
#22
Originally Posted by trinogt
Ahhhh, but someone DOES make aftermarket pistons for them... A member from this site has what you need. www.tmeyerinc.com
I wouldn't go anywhere else for 351m and 400 parts.
I wouldn't go anywhere else for 351m and 400 parts.
$1400 FOR THE SET!!! I can buy a nice set of heads that are much better than the stockers and flow much better for the same price.
That being said, it doesn't really matter anymore because I just cut a sweet deal on a 1972 460 w/70k miles and a C6! Let the build begin!!!
Thanks for all the helpful info fellas. Hopefully this will help some other people with 351M/400 questions.
#23
#25
I think you multiplied a set of 8 pistons by ...8? Not sure, as it is kinda hard to tell the way the pricing is set up there... call Tim anyway and see what the deal is.
Also, 400 fans have an advantage that the 351M fans don't... Every 351 Cleveland piston will fit in a 400, with all the different shapes and sizes/compression ratios associated with the popular Cleveland. All you need is to have bushings pressed into your rods to fit the slightly smaller Cleveland pin. PRESTO!
By the way, I hope you didn't pay much for your 460. If the heads are D2VE heads, they are open chamber, low compression heads that are not much good for anything if you want to make real power without detonation.
Almost any other year would have been better, even newer (D3-up).
So, that means shelling out some money for new heads right there... Maybe the 400 is a better deal after all?
Also, 400 fans have an advantage that the 351M fans don't... Every 351 Cleveland piston will fit in a 400, with all the different shapes and sizes/compression ratios associated with the popular Cleveland. All you need is to have bushings pressed into your rods to fit the slightly smaller Cleveland pin. PRESTO!
By the way, I hope you didn't pay much for your 460. If the heads are D2VE heads, they are open chamber, low compression heads that are not much good for anything if you want to make real power without detonation.
Almost any other year would have been better, even newer (D3-up).
So, that means shelling out some money for new heads right there... Maybe the 400 is a better deal after all?
#26
#27
Take a close look at that 72 460 and get the head casting number if it's D2VE then the first order of business will be to find a set of heads to replace them with as trinogt stated.
just look for a set of D3VE heads for cheapest replacement and most plentiful (where used from 73 clear until the switch to FI in 87) and will be a slight bump in compression. Also that will have the retarded timing chain so a switch to a double roller timing chain set straight up will gain you some power too.
just look for a set of D3VE heads for cheapest replacement and most plentiful (where used from 73 clear until the switch to FI in 87) and will be a slight bump in compression. Also that will have the retarded timing chain so a switch to a double roller timing chain set straight up will gain you some power too.
#28
Originally Posted by trinogt
By the way, I hope you didn't pay much for your 460. If the heads are D2VE heads, they are open chamber, low compression heads that are not much good for anything if you want to make real power without detonation.
Almost any other year would have been better, even newer (D3-up).
So, that means shelling out some money for new heads right there... Maybe the 400 is a better deal after all?
Almost any other year would have been better, even newer (D3-up).
So, that means shelling out some money for new heads right there... Maybe the 400 is a better deal after all?
Or, I could just freshen up the 460 and find some different heads for it. The thing is, the 400 was in use and ran great when the guy pulled it to beef it up. He just never put it in anything. The 460 was also supposedly in use and running great, but it's been 4-5 years since then, and the guy is just trusting what the previous owner told him. Now I don't know what I'm gonna do!!! What a pain...
#29
Originally Posted by monsterbaby
Take a close look at that 72 460 and get the head casting number if it's D2VE then the first order of business will be to find a set of heads to replace them with as trinogt stated.
just look for a set of D3VE heads for cheapest replacement and most plentiful (where used from 73 clear until the switch to FI in 87) and will be a slight bump in compression. Also that will have the retarded timing chain so a switch to a double roller timing chain set straight up will gain you some power too.
just look for a set of D3VE heads for cheapest replacement and most plentiful (where used from 73 clear until the switch to FI in 87) and will be a slight bump in compression. Also that will have the retarded timing chain so a switch to a double roller timing chain set straight up will gain you some power too.
I think it's a gamble with either motor; I may as well gamble with the 460!
Last edited by fomocoguy3; 01-26-2008 at 12:49 AM.
#30
The 460 has been put into many 67-72 Ford trucks, so you should find some good info. Might want to look at L&L's website for mounts, headers, and such. It's the 400 that is rare to find in these trucks, because not only is it a piece of slightly newer technology, it is relatively new today as a performance engine. Back in the days it was produced, the 400 was only a compromise for emissions standards and power, just built to be a solid runner and not a super power house. But the ingredients are there for a stump puller, since the 400 has the longest stroke of any Ford engine built.
The 460 will be a good deal at that price with trans, especially if it all runs good.
The 460 will be a good deal at that price with trans, especially if it all runs good.