I have noticed that a lot of 460's leak a little coolant at the front of the engine especially after they have sat for a while. I assume this is from the manifold/head area. I'm doing a 460 right now and wondered if there are any secrets to avoiding this seemingly common occurence.??? Thanks.

 

I've never had a problem with mine. I always use a thin bead of silicon around the water ports just to be safe. I also have had better luck sealing the intake ports by using the big $35.00 valley pan gasket over the cheaper type. Also check the pressed in insert that sticks out of the intake that the short 5/8" hose goes on to connect the intake to the waterpump. It could be rotting away. You may also want to check to make sure that there isn't a small leak at the thermostat housing that might be dripping down the front.
Good luck, Jimmy

 

I've got a slight coolant leak on my 97 F250HD. Traced it yesterday to the water pump gasket near the top. It doesn't leak continuously nor am I losing any appreciable coolant. Soon as the weather warms a bit I'll replace the gasket. Anyone replaced this gasket? How big a deal?

Rob

 

Don't know if this is your problem...

My 94 F250 with 460 used to get a small puddle of coolant around the top of the block above the water pump where the heater hoses came in. There didn't seem to be an obvious source but I tightened up the heater hose clamps and the leak went away.

May not be your problem but heck it won't cost anything to findout or fix. Takes maybe 10 seconds so you won't waste your day either.

Good Luck,

Jim Henderson

 

Also check the pressed in insert that sticks out of
>the intake that the short 5/8" hose goes on to connect the
>intake to the waterpump. It could be rotting away. You may
>also want to check to make sure that there isn't a small
>leak at the thermostat housing that might be dripping down
>the front.
> Good luck, Jimmy


Good stuff Jimmy
The garage had my intake off to redo the heads about 6 months ago. About 4 months ago I noticed a leak coming from the bypass hose (that you describe as the pressed in fitting). I tightened the clamps but that didn't help. I had to pull the water pump off to get at the pipe and when I did, the 5/8" fitting was only hanging by half it's circumference and there was nothing left inside after I pulled it off. The nipple was almost completely rotted. I went direct to ford for the item and you have to saw some of it off. It was a tight fit to get started, but I put it in the freezer for about 6 hours and then it went in relatively easy. I did the water pump side right away also. Lots of people overlook this nipple when they replace a worn out water pump, but an experienced garageman should have caught it. Some garagemen are worth their fee's.

Tony

 

Hey, Glad I could help on the bypass pipe. The waterpump gasket isn't too bad to replace. The most tome consuming part will probably be moving the accessories out of the way. Heck, If your going that far, I would go ahead and and put a new pump on it. I don't know how many miles you have on your truck, but they are under $50 and that way you won't have to tear it apart again in the near future the replace the pump.
That's just my suggestion, Plus the new pump comes with a new gasket. The trick is to make sure that you remove all of the old gasket from the timing cover (And old pump if you reuse it.). Put a thin layer of blue RTV silicon to the waterpump gasket surface. Put the new gasket on the pump, push it all the way around to seat it in the silicon. ( make sure that your bolt holes are lined up and if any silicon oozes into the pump, wipe it out before it hardens.) Let it setup for about 15 min. then install the pump. Make sure to pit the waterpump fitting into the bypass hose while you sre installing it. I is much easier to install that way. Also. I would replace the bypass hose while the pump is off, It is a bear to install with the pump and intake bolted down.
Good luck. Jimmy