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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 07:32 AM
  #16  
vze2sgxa's Avatar
vze2sgxa
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Where the war is...
Originally Posted by Trucker22
Another suggestion. If you find it's the links, you will find it's a long bolt with four rubber bushings and a spacer in the middle---maybe 4in long. They are meant to fail. Especially if you live in the salt belt. I'm waiting for mine to go any day---my experience is they last about 50K in the midwest.

You can extend their life I think if you coat the bolt and spacer with thick silicone grease similar to spark plug boot grease. If you don't have that chasisi grease can't hurt.

Anything to keep the bolt from exposure to salt and water.

Let us know what you find
Trucker22's right about the degradation of the bolt, it's amazing how when you pull it out of the mounting and plastic tube (even the one that didn't break) that you see the middle of the bolt becomes corroded and gets really thin and then gets thicker towards the end of the bolt on both ends. It reallly does appear to be a part that was designed to fail with age and exposure, but it's not a place I would expect Ford to put a part to fail with 'planned obsolescence' in mind like they do with other parts. Very weird. But the corrosion protection he discusses is well worth it; on mine, I used that same silicon grease that you use for the spark plug boots, dielectric grease I believe. Water ain't getting up into that bolt cover now...
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 09:31 PM
  #17  
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outlawspeeder88
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Does it pop in slow tight turns? about 90,000 to 100,000 miles, lower ball joint never been changed? You be able to tell by the plastic covers over the rubber boots. It is really hard to tell when they go. It takes one person shaking the tire and one holding the jiont to see if it moves.
 
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Old Jan 27, 2008 | 09:55 PM
  #18  
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seabee226
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thats it very slow turns when backing up i have never changed the lower ball joints i will try and change the lower ball joints
 
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Old Feb 2, 2008 | 12:38 AM
  #19  
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Warfarin
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Joined: Dec 2007
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From: Utah
[QUOTE=pitrow]Sure do...

Muffler bearing:
http://www.kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=10

And here's the link for blinker fluid, though I see it's currently sold out. After all, it IS that time of year that you should change your blinker fluid.

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=6[/QUOTE]


Holy sh$% that is funny. Great pages. ROFLMAO
 
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Old Feb 3, 2008 | 10:03 PM
  #20  
outlawspeeder88's Avatar
outlawspeeder88
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Changing the lower balljoints yourself is a hand full. As per the Ford CD: jack, pull tires, pull brakes, pull hub, pull half shaft, and undo the tortion bars. I did not do the tortion bar.

The tool to remove and reinstall is a rent/buy and return. When you think it is not going to work, give it more, it will work. Putting them back in make sure they start strait.

http://outlawspeeder.50megs.com/photo_1.html I posted some pics that might help you. Mide the popup from 50megs.com

If you need help let me know.
 
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