Master Cylinder Swap
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Beldenville, WI
Master Cylinder Swap
My understanding is when I swap my original MC for a manual disc/drum MC it pretty much bolts right to the same firewall location, correct? What I have not been able find info on is whether the push rod from the original can be swapped to the new or do I need a replacement? Can someone shed light on this for me? Thanks!
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Yes it bolts right on.
The stock unit in your truck has a small adjustable nub on the end if it is still stock.
Slight in or out adjustment may be needed to meet the install conditions.
The plate unbolts with the master attached. as a 2 piece unit. There are2 counter sunk Machine Screws on the back side That hold the master to the plate.
You need to remove the four bolts and leave the master attached. Than undo the master bolts.. Assemble in reverse.
Adjust as necessary for correct pedal free play.
Garbz
The stock unit in your truck has a small adjustable nub on the end if it is still stock.
Slight in or out adjustment may be needed to meet the install conditions.
The plate unbolts with the master attached. as a 2 piece unit. There are2 counter sunk Machine Screws on the back side That hold the master to the plate.
You need to remove the four bolts and leave the master attached. Than undo the master bolts.. Assemble in reverse.
Adjust as necessary for correct pedal free play.
Garbz
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Beldenville, WI
So the push rod is reusable but may need a slight adjustment when used in the new MC, that's great news, thanks, Garbz, it can't get much easier and convenient than that!
Last edited by Payner44; Jan 19, 2008 at 07:50 PM.
New User
Joined: Jan 2008
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I had a similar question about the rod (I'm going to a Dual MC, but still with drums/drums... can't afford the disc swap, yet). Been searching the posts a lot, and found some confusion about it all, for me anyway.
Here's where I am with this, so far: I have a '66 F100 single-chamber brake MC. Looking at a '67 F100 Dual MC as replacement (reminder, I'm keeping the drum/drum setup). Will the '67 Dual MC mount up, and then it's a matter of adjusting the throw of the plunger rod...yes?
I know I still have to split the front and rear fluid lines after the MC (otherwise, what's the point, right?). Is there any "I-done-that-before-here's-how-you-do-it" advice on this aspect of the Single to Dual MC swap. Even a re-direct to the relative post would help... I have been looking and looking, just too much drum/disc, drum/drum mixing up for this ol' brain pan of mine I guess.
Thanks in advance... just getting started on this ol' beauty.
Here's where I am with this, so far: I have a '66 F100 single-chamber brake MC. Looking at a '67 F100 Dual MC as replacement (reminder, I'm keeping the drum/drum setup). Will the '67 Dual MC mount up, and then it's a matter of adjusting the throw of the plunger rod...yes?
I know I still have to split the front and rear fluid lines after the MC (otherwise, what's the point, right?). Is there any "I-done-that-before-here's-how-you-do-it" advice on this aspect of the Single to Dual MC swap. Even a re-direct to the relative post would help... I have been looking and looking, just too much drum/disc, drum/drum mixing up for this ol' brain pan of mine I guess.
Thanks in advance... just getting started on this ol' beauty.
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 6,060
Likes: 7
From: Glendale Arizona
Yes
Typically the piston countersink is in the same locations on all the ford spec master cylinders, The touch point verses the machined mounting surface. This way the larger bore units can be replace the smaller bore units, and use only one pushrod. Less mistakes on the line.
Its when you get in to power boosters that things get longer as there is a host of ones out there that fit. And vary based on the mount.
We use exclusively on all builds the late 80s ranger master and booster. This includes hot rods, rats, and trucks. IC brake kits are all engineered to use this unit as a assembly.
Garbz
PS i am sure some one is now rooting through engineering datum to prove me wrong...
Typically the piston countersink is in the same locations on all the ford spec master cylinders, The touch point verses the machined mounting surface. This way the larger bore units can be replace the smaller bore units, and use only one pushrod. Less mistakes on the line.
Its when you get in to power boosters that things get longer as there is a host of ones out there that fit. And vary based on the mount.
We use exclusively on all builds the late 80s ranger master and booster. This includes hot rods, rats, and trucks. IC brake kits are all engineered to use this unit as a assembly.
Garbz
PS i am sure some one is now rooting through engineering datum to prove me wrong...
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Beldenville, WI
Just found a great deal on eBay for the MC I was planning on using and bought it. Others may be interested and there's a few of them left, so go to http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Chevy-Ford-Rod-Polished-Aluminum-MCPV-1-Master-Cylinder_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33566QQihZ019Q QitemZ290194386647 to get one.
Laughing Gas
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 957
Likes: 3
From: Winchendon MA
use a 69 Bronco master for drum drum trucks it's twin line unit with the outputs toward the inner fender so the lines face away from the heat. 69 broncos used same wheel cyl sizes and drums as my 65 f100. No messing around with miss matched parts it's bolt up and stop!
44Dwarf
PS: seeing the picture in you post brings a tear to my eye oh i miss my 65.......
44Dwarf
PS: seeing the picture in you post brings a tear to my eye oh i miss my 65.......
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Senior User
Joined: Sep 2007
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From: Beldenville, WI
Help!
I just read conflicting information about the original MCs for '61-'66 F100s and need clarification, quick. Is the bore 1" or 1 1/8" or either? How can I tell the size for my '64? I thought is was 1" and ordered a dual reservoir to match...if it turns out to be 1 1/8" I'll have some scrambling to do making the switch with the vendor. Thanks!
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