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I found this in other forum and seems to me interesting, I dont know if it is for you, and here is: TO GET THE OIL PAN OUT.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
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Yesterday i brought the truck to my dad’s friends shop. i stopped by tonight and they are done they did not have to pull the engine all they did was drop the tranny unbolt the motor mounts and jack up the engine and put some wood blocks between the mounts. They were able to get the pan out and they layed a fat bead of the ford silicone on it. Glad i brought it to him it is a little cold to be working on 3/4 pickup in freezing weather<o></o>
I've done lots of pans like that on fords. but on are trucks the turbo looks like it would be in the way. If you going to remove trany I would just pull engine so you know that their a go seal and its a lot easier to work when standing than on your back.
Yes a number of pans have been replaced without pulling the engine. Pulling the tranny would be very helpful!! One reason Ford says to pull the engine as they say the engine should be upside down for 24 hours before installing the sealant and pan so no oil can get in the way. If your careful and take your time that may not be needed. If I needed to replace my pan I would certainly find a way to do it in the truck unless I had a few other things that needed to be done.
is it that much easier to pull the tranny and fool around with blocking up the engine than to just pull it. i've never pulled a powerstroke before, but i have pulled plenty other engines. when i weigh it out, seems that benefits of having the engine out would outweigh the small amount of time saved by going at it the other way.
It is much easier to pull the tranny than the engine. It is also much easier when going back together the mate the tranny to the engine than get and engine lined up with a tranny. When you consider how large the PSD is especially when trying to shoe horn it out the engine compartment the tranny is easier.
well, i definitely appreciate the opinion of the experienced. whenever i get to ever doing that project i will probably be stubborn and try it my way so i can prove myself either wrong or right.
How about this. When I was checking out my oil pan leak I noticed the crossmember that passes under the oil pan has two large rivets holding it to the frame rails on each side. Grind out the rivets, remove the crossmember so you can drop the pan straight down, fix pan and bolt the crossmember back in. My one concearn with this was if the rails shifted getting the crossmember back in would be a pain. It turned out the oil leak was comming from on top of the engin so I didnt spend much time looking into it but what do you think? Take a look sometime and let me know what you think. If this would work it would have to be the easyest way to deal with the situation.
i helped to an oil pan on a 2wd IDI and we used a engine hoist to lift the motor as much as we possibly could. all we removed was the fan and fan shround. it was a PITA because the oil pump had to be installed and uninstalled at the same time as the pan. also making sure you put a good bead of RTV was tricky. I'm not sure how it would be with a PSD, but with the other truck it probably would have been easier removing the motor. removing the axle cross member seems like a good idea.
Yea, like I said I din't take a careful look at it because I found out the leak was someplace else but from what I have seen it looks very possible and would make oil pan removal very easy.
i had thought of that before but quickly abandoned the idea because of the fear of getting it back in. everytime i have ever removed a crossmember on anything, the frame moves and it's a real pain getting the crossmember back in. i bet someone's done that before though,
i had thought of that before but quickly abandoned the idea because of the fear of getting it back in. everytime i have ever removed a crossmember on anything, the frame moves and it's a real pain getting the crossmember back in. i bet someone's done that before though,
In what way the frame moves to difficult getting the crossmember back in?, do you need a porto-power or something like that to help? or what? Because I also have had the same idea like scatgo.
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