Getting Irked...
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 159
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From: Inland Empire, So Cal
Getting Irked...
Here we go again.
1995 PSD with 342K on it. I cant get it to start without plugging the block heater in. I live in Southern California where it has been getting down to mid thirties at night. Which isn't that bad for here. I haven't had this problem except for this past month. I have had the GPs replaced probably a year ago and have replaced the GPR 3 times now. The last time i went to replace the GPR I noticed that one or the big terminals had melted out the plastic, I think that was caused by my using the block heater... Any help/advice would be appreciated. Also if anyone knows a good PSD shop for repairs locally to me (inland empire) please please please let me know. Thanks
1995 PSD with 342K on it. I cant get it to start without plugging the block heater in. I live in Southern California where it has been getting down to mid thirties at night. Which isn't that bad for here. I haven't had this problem except for this past month. I have had the GPs replaced probably a year ago and have replaced the GPR 3 times now. The last time i went to replace the GPR I noticed that one or the big terminals had melted out the plastic, I think that was caused by my using the block heater... Any help/advice would be appreciated. Also if anyone knows a good PSD shop for repairs locally to me (inland empire) please please please let me know. Thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Inland Empire, So Cal
Originally Posted by FARM69
The block heater would not cause the GPR to be melted out. I wonder if there is one or two bad gp's that are allow infinite resistance that would cause the plug to melt up?
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Kearney, Nebr
There are several posts on here about how to check the resistance of the gp's. The easiest way is to pull the undercover valvecover harnesses (there are 4 of them total) and check the two outside pins.
Do a search and you'll find a better write up.
Do a search and you'll find a better write up.
Thread Starter
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 159
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From: Inland Empire, So Cal
Originally Posted by FARM69
There are several posts on here about how to check the resistance of the gp's. The easiest way is to pull the undercover valvecover harnesses (there are 4 of them total) and check the two outside pins.
Do a search and you'll find a better write up.
Do a search and you'll find a better write up.
So i have to pull the valve covers to test the plugs? i found this in a post. i dont know how to link to posts si just cut and paste-
Each valve cover has an electrical connection; each connector has 8 pins. The two outer pins on each side connect to the glowplugs under the cover. The center four pins connect to the injector coils. You'll need a multi meter that can measure ohms. Connect one lead (usually the balck one) to a good ground. Then probe each of the outer pins on the connector. Good glow plugs usually measure between .8 ohms to 1.5 ohms. Some may be outside of that, but won't stray too far. Bad plugs can measure anywhere above 20 ohms, for instance, when I replaced mine, I had three plugs that measured 800 ohms, two that where open or infinite resistance, and one that was around 600 ohms.
so where are the plugs? outside on top of the valva cover or inside under the valve cover? thanks
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Inland Empire, So Cal
Originally Posted by FARM69
You do not have to pull the covers to check them. There are two wiring harnesses on each head that you have to undo to get at the pins. You'll see them once you open the hood.
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Inland Empire, So Cal
Ok just to make sure that i am looking at the right parts on the pass side its near the rear side of the truck and on the driver side its towards the front?
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