I have purchased 4 vehicles new from the dealer. Each of them has given me at least 10 years of service or 150,000 miles. I'm not sure I'll keep my 2003 Expedition XLT 2WD to see either milestone. I've had many used cars.

I like Fords- 3 of the 4 new vehicles I purchased were Fords - an Aerostar and a Taurus - they were great for me.

This Expy has had too many 'little problems'. The door switches stopped working leaving the interior lights on, the mixing door on the AC has a gear box made for a toy, the window switches are designed in such a way that the contacts corrode rendering them non functional, if the switches work, the window regulator is flimsy and subject to failure. The COPs have issues- boots, springs - rarely the actual electrical component - a Ford dealer will charge you $200 to change 1. I'm coming up on 90K and I'm afraid to change the plugs because I think there is a legitimate risk of stripping the heads (yes I own a torque wrench). There is another issue described in this forum with a noise associated with the rear-end (but it sounds like it is coming from the front end) - it is more noticeable when the wheel is turned slightly- I have the noise and will likely be sending several hundred dollars on the rear end.

So far it has been little things I don't think I could have PM'ed to avoid - they were parts that were under-designed for the job. I have a hard time believing the next 60 K will not bring larger, more expensive problems in addition to more work on cheap switches.

I haved 5 payments left and then I think I will have an expy for sale. I love the forum and appreciate all the help it has given me.

Thanks for listening to my rant. My question is was 2003 the worst year to buy an expedition - first year of new body, double wishbone in back?

Thanks

Paul

 

interior lights - spray your latches with WD-40. It is gunk/grime getting in there. Pretty common on most vehicles.

Switches - contact cleaner is your friend. I've never had a problem with window switches on any Fords.

COPs - I've only had 1 problem with a COP and that was due to a huge puddle and water in the plug well. Replace the boot/spring for $4 and move on.

Spark plugs - Why are you afraid of stripping the heads? There is no reason to IMO.

Noise - are you sure that it is the rear end? If it sounds like the front end, I would start looking there.

 

I also have a 2003 EB and with an August 2002 build date it doesn't get much worse. I have 136k miles. Whats odd is I still like the thing.... Some problems I either have or have had:

Intermittent backup sensors.
Air noise from both front doors.
Lock rattles both front doors.
Leaky sunroof.
2 failed COP (in the past 3 weeks)
Flashing battery light from corroded battery cable.
Inop keyless pad
Window switches dead (2 times)
front diff whine (fixed with some "springs")
Wierd rattle from passenger door window.
Loud squeak using drivers window
some back lighting in drivers window switch out (for the 2nd time)
cd player stopped ejecting cds.
driver windshield washer nozzle plugged up (what a pain to replace)
lots of warped rotors (now fine using slotted rotors)
Rear AC blend motor
ratching side mirrros - various dealer attempted fixes 3 times - no luck

I could go on.... Whats extra frustrating is how many of these are TSB'ed...

Very recently it has become hard to start - decided to act like this last Saturday. Takes two or three long cranks to start. Once started it runs great. Need to figure this one out soon.

-mick

 

How cold has it been in your area? If it is very cold then naturally, it will be hard to start. Also, if you have the original battery still it is probably getting weak.

 

I'm in Northern Cal and so the weather is pretty mild. The battery was replaced about 10 months ago when we were trying to find my "Flashing battery light" problem. The engine cranks strongly but there is no attempt by the engine at firing. Its as if there is no fuel. Nine times out ten you just need to stop cranking and the next start will work. I've seen at least one person posting with the same symptoms but no clues on what maybe the problem source.

The problem started 1 day before I got serious misfires on cyl 8. After replacing cyl 8 plug and COP the misfires went away but the hard start remains.

-mick

 

Wow, nickel dime stuff,.
Good news comes from my corner, i have a 97' and not a stitch of trouble not one, has
100400 roughly in miles on it, plan on getting a new one soon, but i'll tell ya I wont be getting rid of the one i have know, noway been to good.

 

Aah, I bet you are losing fuel pressure when it sits. Try cycling the key on and off 3 times before starting and see if it starts better.

 

I'm about 90% sure that this key on / off trick has made the starting much better.... Assuming that is the case, what am I looking for as the problem?

-mick

PS Thanks for the help so far....

 

When you turn the key to "run" the fuel pump kicks on for 3 sec or so to prime the system, if it starts better after doing this its have a had time getting gas to the fuel rails. Either your fuel filter needs replacement or you fuel pump is wearing out.

 

I figured we would end up with something along these lines. Is the pump and/or filter located in an easy to get to location ie can I buy a clue ;-)

If it was the filter, would I not have other problems beyond just the start ie missing under load or something?

I'm actually a little suspicious that the pump is being activated for the 3 seconds like you say that it should be....

-mick

 

I just finished replacing my drivers window glass and regulator after a failed attempt of someone trying to steal my 03 expedition.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/7...regulator.html

While I was here I thought I'd update this thread....

This is exactly what the problem was. Some internal seal to the pump failed and was loosing pressure after sitting for a while. Eventually I got sick of the problem and had the pump replaced.

I'm now at 203,000 miles (just had an oil change today). Only dramatic thing thats got wrong since I last wrote is that the #3 plug blew out. After very little research, quickly realized this is a common problem on this specific triton head. After researching helicoils, new head and new engine options, the no brainer was using www.blownoutsparkplug.com. Very very happy with that decision.

-mick

 

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