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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 02:02 PM
  #31  
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greagin
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From: Greenwood, SC
would people mind posting what they paid for the levelling kits? i did an add a leaf kit to my old F250 and was fairly satisfied with it. meaning it did not break or anything, it did lift it. maybe it was not quite as smooth as new springs but its an F250 not a ranger so i do expect it to ride a little rougher. I guess my questions is essentially, add a leaf kit is $109, all other levelling kits seem to Start at $250 and go up from there. is the at minimum doubling of price worth the difference in ride quality? i would love to level my truck but i am desparately caught betwixt what to do. i do like the idea of saving money, and again, i have not had a problem with an add a leaf kit (i may feel different if i had).
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 03:42 PM
  #32  
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Robert6401
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greagin,

Honestly, if you were that satisfied with the add-a-leaf, I would say go with it again. My kit was in excess of $500, and I installed it myself. The ride did not change from stock and the kit also came with all of the relocation bracketry to keep the front-end geometry correct, i.e. drop pitman arm, trac-bar relocation bracket, steering stabilizer relocation bracket, et al.... As has been said, you get what you pay form, but if you'd rather save the money and were happy with the add-a-leaf before, it would be hard to justify spending the extra money.

Robert
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 03:55 PM
  #33  
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greagin
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From: Greenwood, SC
Hi Robert:

True, but i just want to make sure that i am not missing something (e.g. front end geometry). However, i was under the impression that if i were to raise the front end up by only 1.5 inches that i would not need to relocate any front end geometry. And it's not that i was giddy with excitement over the add a leaf, it's just that i had no problems with it and as i recall, i did not notice a ride change from stock. maybe slightly stiffer but not much if any at all, in my opinion. i guess essentially, my question is at what point of lift when changing front end height do you need to spend the extra $$ on the higher end kits that do relocate front end equipment 2.5 and higher? again, i guess after reading all of these posts i am second guessing what i have done in the past and if it was a mistake in the past i don't want to make the same mistake twice, hence the am i totally missing something here or is it simply user preference. I have been known to miss quite a bit in the past, just ask my wife!!!! LOL
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 04:08 PM
  #34  
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Robert6401
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Most will say that you dont REALLY need to worry about the front end geometry until you go up to a 4" lift. That being said, you know what I went with. I would say, that at the least, the trac-bar should be relocated. Or you can buy an adjustable trac-bar. I got one from Summit racing for a good price, but that was a few years ago. At only 1.5" of lift, you are most likely safe without anything else. My reccomendations are for 2.5" lifts.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 04:21 PM
  #35  
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greagin
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From: Greenwood, SC
10-4, thanks. i have to fix my up pipes, do the intank mods and CCK before i put serious thought into levelling the front end. i have the cck, just ordered the in tanks from itp and will get the new up pipes next week. maybe the lift would be a good birthday present for me to get myself in a few months!! now, correct me if i am wrong but as i understand it, with a 1.5" lift you don't need the 350 blocks in the rear and are probably safe with the front end equipment staying stock. But if you go with the 2.5" lift then you need to move the front end equipment as well as put the 350 blocks in the rear for it to be truly level. also, you are in Gilbert, SC close to columbia. did you read my post on a wrenchfest? do you know anyone else around these parts that may be interested?
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 04:26 PM
  #36  
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Robert6401
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I will check out the wrenchfest post. You are on the right path as far as the leveling. 1.5" you probably dont need anything else at all. 2.5" you may want to start looking at the geometry and you will need the F350 blocks.
 
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Old Jan 12, 2008 | 04:43 PM
  #37  
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greagin
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From: Greenwood, SC
10-4, thanks !!!!!
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 07:34 PM
  #38  
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Re-arcing springs in lieu of new ones ?

Is this a viable option ? this is less expensive than replacing the springs. The guy I know owns a spring shop and specializes in suspensions. He would reheat springs and put the arc back in.

2003 350 CC 6.0 LB. King Ranch
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 10:31 PM
  #39  
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redfire42
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I am not an expert at this but I would think reheating would make it weaker. and in the end sag even more with the weight. BUt I dont really know..
 
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Old Feb 1, 2008 | 11:34 PM
  #40  
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bdrummonds
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From: Millbrook Alabama
Originally Posted by gpsyking
Is this a viable option ? this is less expensive than replacing the springs. The guy I know owns a spring shop and specializes in suspensions. He would reheat springs and put the arc back in.

2003 350 CC 6.0 LB. King Ranch
Yes and No, rearching the stock springs will only get you safely back to "no sag stock" . Most spring shops will rearch your springs and then put an add a leaf in for additional lift. i checked out a local spring shop, and was quoted $250 per axle for a rearch with add a leafs, for that I can almost buy a spring replacement kit and go 3".
 
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